FAST learning curve non cat stove recommendations...

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pcs2011

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Apr 11, 2011
29
SC
I am starting to research some non catalytic free-standing wood stoves. Looking to heat about 2,000 sq.ft, single story.
I want something that I can quickly learn how to burn most efficiently. Many stoves out there look very nice, but are not very user friendly.
The Avalon Rainier 90 looks good so far, but I have much more research to do!!

I would appreciate any comments on what your opinions are on a stove that is durable and yet has a fast (short) learning curve. I don't want to fiddle with it for months until i find the sweet spot!!

Thanks y'all,

Pete
 
Pacific Energy would be the only one I have experience with, and I can tell you that my Summit (T-6) and my father's super 27 (T-5) have both been very easy to operate as long as the wood is dry. I can't stress that enough... wood my lasts stove thought was great would give me fits and not want to burn. With dry wood though, it is as easy as loading in the morning on top of last nights coals, and then loading at night on top of that mornings coals. Usually the secondaries would light in less that fifteen minutes, I would turn it down to where ever I needed to have the air set for based on the outside temp, and after that I wouldn't touch it. Good luck with whatever you end up with!
 
With 2,200 sq. ft., I'd reccommend going slightly up in size to Avalon's Spokane 1750, or Lopi's Endeavor. They're both slightly larger (1.8 vs. 2.2 cu. ft. firebox) stoves, & thus can heat a bit more space. I don't know what part of SC you live in, but if it's a cooler climate, you might want to consider upgrading to the Avalon Olympic or Lopi Liberty.

Avalon/Lopi make great stoves- you won't be disapointed!

I'm sure others on here will give you at least a dozen more suggestions, so be prepared to be overwhelmed with advise! :)
 
SC houses can be colder than far north ones, since insulation, orientation to sun, windbreak plantings, frostproof foundations, etc., are not as critical in construction there--or at least they haven't been in years past. These are also factors to consider as well as size in stove selection, and the more detail you give, the more helpful information you'll get back. One of the things that helps in making recommendations is what you're doing now to heat the house, how much fuel that takes, and how well it's working for you. Also, what would be its intended use?

I think it's important to look over all the available options as you make your way to the soapstone stove display. That way you can know for a fact that you carefully considered all the facts before you made the right choice. :lol:

Seriously, though, I'm really happy with my Hearthstone Heritage. I wouldn't describe any stove as idiot-proof, but if I did, I would consider using that term for this one. It's teen-proof, apparently, anyway. Depending upon factors described above, you might go with a smaller one. When I bought, the most helpful thing I did was get on here and ask people what size house they had, how much fuel oil they burned before they switched over to wood heat, and how much they used after that. This gave me a solid basis for comparison across climate zones. I got good data, and my stove worked out great for me. YMMV.
 
I think we all have gone thru the learning curve. But if you do your homework on this forum you can get up to speed with very little pain. Start with a good stove, pick a good location, install a good chimney correctly and use seasoned wood. If this is done right, you should have a good draft and a easy stove to run and maintain. I can comment on my Oslo. It is easy to fire up a cold box and easier to keep any size fire running. You know you have it it when you can run the stove with a range of outside temps and maintain the house at a comfortable temp. It does become second nature. Others can give you there pro's and con's with there stoves.
 
scwoodman said:
I am starting to research some non catalytic free-standing wood stoves. Looking to heat about 2,000 sq.ft, single story.
I want something that I can quickly learn how to burn most efficiently. Many stoves out there look very nice, but are not very user friendly.
The Avalon Rainier 90 looks good so far, but I have much more research to do!!

I would appreciate any comments on what your opinions are on a stove that is durable and yet has a fast (short) learning curve. I don't want to fiddle with it for months until i find the sweet spot!!

Thanks y'all,

Pete

Welcome to the forum Pete.

The very best thing you can do to shorten the learning curve is to get your fuel on hand NOW! While most folks put their focus on only the stove, more should put their focus on the fuel they intend to burn. It is a huge percentage of first time wood burners that have some big time problems in their first year and they try to find all sorts of answers as to why the stove just does not operate to their expectations when it is not the stove at all; it is the fuel.

If you intend to purchase your wood, do it NOW! The wood sellers will tell you the wood has been seasoned and ready to burn. 99% or more of the time that wood is not ready to burn. Wood needs time....and that time does not start until the wood has been cut to firewood lengths and then split and stacked out where Mother Nature can do her thing and get your wood dry. Also, do not try to burn oak in your first year. The reason is that oak, although one of the very best firewoods, gives up its moisture very reluctantly. We always give oak 3 years to dry before trying to burn it.

If you intend on cutting your own wood, do it NOW!

Just remember that all wood needs time to dry. We do all of our cutting in the winter months and then come spring do the splitting and stacking. We usually give the wood a minimum of 2 years drying time but most times we give it even longer. And burning wood before its time is just like putting very poor fuel in your car. Your car would not run right, you'd have a lack of power and you would become frustrated.

So what are the big benefits of burning good dry wood?

1. You will not have problems getting the fire started and keeping it burning nicely.
2. You won't have your glass turning black.
3. You won't have to be cleaning your chimney so often.
4. You will get more heat from each log you burn and therefore you will not need as much wood as you would if you were to burn not so dry wood.
5. Every time you look at your wonderfully stacked wood you will know that is better than money in the bank.

Good luck to you.
 
See, the rest of us knew we could count on Dennis for that, so never even mentioned wood--we're just sitting here doing the Mr. Bobble-head thing--nodding in agreement.

The other advantage of good dry wood is that you'll have an easier time evaluating the true nature of whatever stove you buy with good wood. I was lucky and had most of a winter's supply of seasoned wood on hand, which allowed me to learn my way up that curve pretty quickly. If that had not been the case, I'd probably be feeling like I had bought a lemon. When I ran low on the good stuff and my burning results dropped in quality, I was able to isolate the problem easily.

Every so often there's a new thread on here entitled "This darn ___(insert name of stove)___ is no good!" --and it almost always seems to be that burning green wood is the culprit. Especially if you get a stove with a warranty, you can't give it a fair trial without seasoned wood.
 
scwoodman said:
I am starting to research some non catalytic free-standing wood stoves. Looking to heat about 2,000 sq.ft, single story.
I want something that I can quickly learn how to burn most efficiently. Many stoves out there look very nice, but are not very user friendly.
The Avalon Rainier 90 looks good so far, but I have much more research to do!!

I would appreciate any comments on what your opinions are on a stove that is durable and yet has a fast (short) learning curve. I don't want to fiddle with it for months until i find the sweet spot!!

Thanks y'all,

Pete

Just wanted to say +1 on everything Dennis said about the wood!
In theory most non-cat stove operate the same way with one air lever so there are a ton of great stoves for you to pick from.
Here are a few questions that will help everyone give you good suggestions as to what stove you should buy......
1) How many square feet are you looking at heating?
2) How good is your insulation
3) Do you have a chimney already and if so what size and type construction is it
4) Do you already have a hearth and if so what is it made of and what are the dimensions (pics can help)?
5) What is the house layout and where will the stove be located
6) What is your budget for the stove purchase as there are very nice non-cat stoves ranging from around $650-$3000 depending on what you are looking for in the looks department.
 
scwoodman said:
I am starting to research some non catalytic free-standing wood stoves. Looking to heat about 2,000 sq.ft, single story.
I want something that I can quickly learn how to burn most efficiently. Many stoves out there look very nice, but are not very user friendly.
The Avalon Rainier 90 looks good so far, but I have much more research to do!!

I would appreciate any comments on what your opinions are on a stove that is durable and yet has a fast (short) learning curve. I don't want to fiddle with it for months until i find the sweet spot!!

Thanks y'all,

Pete

I suspect you'll find that both cat and secondary burners are easy to learn how to use . . . the key being . . . as Backwoods mentioned . . . well seasoned (i.e. dry) wood. Make sure you get your wood bucked up, split and stacked as soon as possible . . . or if buying . . . buy it now rather than later since what a seller would consider "seasoned" and "fine to burn" might vary quite a bit when stacked up to reality.

While I have heard good things about the Avalon line up I suspect you'll find that many other brands are also durable, reliable and easy to use . . . with just a few exceptions. Truthfully, most folks that have problems with stoves either get the wrong size stove or have unseasoned wood that they are using.
 
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