fastest seasoning wood.

[Hogwildz]

I could bicker with you all day long here. I don't agree, or respect most of your opinions. When someone doesn't agree with you, you resort to calling them ignorant, how nice. You shouldn't compare the guys out west to the guys on the east coast. They are forced to burn pine, and given the chance to burn hardwoods, I'm sure they would. To the OP, sorry about the derailment here, but I still recommend dead standing first followed by soft maple, cherry, and walnut. Everything should be split on the smaller side for 8-9 month dry time.

You seem to like to bicker with more than just me from the posts I have read of yours, and you just chose the wrong person, that's all.
I really don't care if you agree or disagree with me, nor do I really give a crap if you respect me or not. I am not here to please you. I am here to pass along what I was taught, have learned, and have experienced. And if I disagree, I have no problem letting that be known. If someone disagrees with me, that is fine. If someone chooses to be an asshat about it, then I will enjoy pointing that out also.

To come into a thread, and discount what another member is saying, without explanation, is just that, being an asshat. If the shoe fits....
And yes, I can be one at times also.

I was not comparing west to east. I was pointing out, that pine is a decent wood, that dries quickly, puts out heat, and burns fine. Especially for someone who does not have a stockpile of seasoned, dry wood.
If Pine was so horrible, westerners would be screwed, but obviously they are not. THAT was my point. Whether they would burn hard wood or not, some don't have that option period. If I could burn fuel rods from the nuke plant, I would surely do that. Yes, non-relevant, get it?
To say, forget Pine, go get this and that, is jut a douche of a comment. The guy asked for quick drying wood, I gave an answer. Want to add to that, great, but don't be a prick about it discounting what another member suggests, because it ain't to your liking.

Yes, split on then small side, but be wary of shorter burn times, and much hotter fires.
If I remember correctly, you just swapped out for a Defiant, jerryrigged it, then added an 8" liner to, and cracked the stove. Then purchased a new one that calls for a 6" liner, and hooked the 8" to it, then you were whining about the new one not burning hot enough. It was suggested your wood was not dry. Then you gave the person who gave you suggestions, crap about it, and called them as trolling you. The Defiant would burn less than optimal wood than the new stove you have, so maybe your wood was not as dry as you claim. Maybe you need to look in the mirror, rather than get all butt hurt when someone give you advise your asking for, gets crap from you about it, then calls you on your ignorance, less experienced bullcrap.

You asked for it, you got it.
You may go now.
Pine

 

[claydogg84]

You seem to like to bicker with more than just me from the posts I have read of yours, and you just chose the wrong person, that's all.
I really don't care if you agree or disagree with me, nor do I really give a crap if you respect me or not. I am not here to please you. I am here to pass along what I was taught, have learned, and have experienced. And if I disagree, I have no problem letting that be known. If someone disagrees with me, that is fine. If someone chooses to be an asshat about it, then I will enjoy pointing that out also.

To come into a thread, and discount what another member is saying, without explanation, is just that, being an asshat. If the shoe fits....
And yes, I can be one at times also.

I was not comparing west to east. I was pointing out, that pine is a decent wood, that dries quickly, puts out heat, and burns fine. Especially for someone who does not have a stockpile of seasoned, dry wood.
If Pine was so horrible, westerners would be screwed, but obviously they are not. THAT was my point. Whether they would burn hard wood or not, some don't have that option period. If I could burn fuel rods from the nuke plant, I would surely do that. Yes, non-relevant, get it?
To say, forget Pine, go get this and that, is jut a douche of a comment. The guy asked for quick drying wood, I gave an answer. Want to add to that, great, but don't be a prick about it discounting what another member suggests, because it ain't to your liking.

Yes, split on then small side, but be wary of shorter burn times, and much hotter fires.
If I remember correctly, you just swapped out for a Defiant, jerryrigged it, then added an 8" liner to, and cracked the stove. Then purchased a new one that calls for a 6" liner, and hooked the 8" to it, then you were whining about the new one not burning hot enough. It was suggested your wood was not dry. Then you gave the person who gave you suggestions, crap about it, and called them as trolling you. The Defiant would burn less than optimal wood than the new stove you have, so maybe your wood was not as dry as you claim. Maybe you need to look in the mirror, rather than get all butt hurt when someone give you advise your asking for, gets crap from you about it, then calls you on your ignorance, less experienced bullcrap.

You asked for it, you got it.
You may go now.
Pine

You claim to not care, and then write an essay - for the third time. You've got the butt hurt thing right, but it's not me, it's you . One more thing, experience doesn't always equate to knowledge, you being a prime example. Take care !

 

[Hogwildz]

My stove has no bearing on the moisture meter reading sorry. And my stove needs dry wood in order to get the secondary combustion working just like any other stove. Just because you cant get wood dry that quick doesn't make everyone who can an idiot It just means you don't know how to get wood dry that fast. Now yes if you have a stove that tends to toke off on you then yes you will have to split larger and it will take more time to get it dry but i have never had an issue with it and neither has my father with his quad. And with my smaller splits i can fit more wood into the fire box with much less space between them which for me means longer burn times.

My misunderstanding, I am not very familiar with your stove, hence I said I may be wrong... yes we all know that happens from time to time.
A member I have been pm'in with, is doing a reline, and is weighing flex & rigid. He mentioned double wall smooth flex, I advised him to PM you about the double wall flex, as you may have some input about quality, performance etc. Of course he is also weighing double wall rigid, so you know what I had to say about that.

 

[ckitch]

I guess if you have lots of wood, then you would only burn the best but some of us have to burn everything. I've got six 30"+ soft maple trees that went down last year that have to be css this spring. It's either that or pay hundreds of $$ to haul away the stuff. I found that all wood, including willow, burn just fine if you intermingle them with better hardwoods and burn the best wood only at night. I don't even sort my wood into species, I just burn it when it's dry enough. The only wood I call junk is under 2" or has rotted. If I had 10 acres of 50 yr hardwood that is 70' high & perfectly straight, then my opinion would be far different.

Sorry came on a little strong there, but heard allot of people (not here) compare it to ash and that is just not true. I will cut it and burn it in the future, I'm sure, because I'm pretty much a scrounger with some connections so I take what I can get.

 

[NordicSplitter]

Everybody in NY hates pine.. I have no problem with it. Since everyone hates it, it's actually hard to find though. Most people just throw it away without telling anyone.

I tell my friends never to burn Pine if they have it. I tell them I will come over and dispose of it for free Lol

 

[Hogwildz]

I tell my friends never to burn Pine if they have it. I tell them I will come over and dispose of it for free Lol

Pine gets the same bad rap around here. I used to think the same way, until I got a free couple cords worth from my neighbor, delivered to my lot.
During shoulder, between loads in the coldest of days, and night time fires when it is milder out, is perfect for pine.
I'll burn just about anything, but really appreciate some characteristics of less than desirable woods, and the place they serve around here.

 

[DougA]

Just be careful how small you split the wood. Anything real small will go up like a tinder box, and if this is your first go around with a wood stove, and you load that firebox full of small stuff, you will need a few changes of shorts until you get comfortable with the stove, how it burns, and what it can do.

++1 from personal experience.

 

[Fred Wright]

I wouldn't discount pine at all. The tales about chimney fires and excessive creosote probably originate from cases of burning the stuff before its had time to fully cure or burning it in log form. Pine is good firewood, catches up quickly and burns well. Folks in the northern latitudes burn pine all the time; it's the only tree that grows up there.

By all means, standing dead trees (not oak) are a fine way to get started on next winter's supply. Oak won't season in its natural state. From standing dead, it's gotta have at least a year split & stacked before ya burn it. If you can get some now, set it aside for later use.

I prefer red maple for fast drying time. Green off the stump, red maple will be ready to burn next winter if you get it stacked now. It won't burn super hot but it'll burn. Stack it loose where the sun and wind can get to it.

Mize well start working now on wood for winters to come, since you already have the OK to cut. Get what you'll need for next winter first, split & stack it. Then you can begin working up wood for the future.

 

[bholler]

My misunderstanding, I am not very familiar with your stove, hence I said I may be wrong... yes we all know that happens from time to time.
A member I have been pm'in with, is doing a reline, and is weighing flex & rigid. He mentioned double wall smooth flex, I advised him to PM you about the double wall flex, as you may have some input about quality, performance etc. Of course he is also weighing double wall rigid, so you know what I had to say about that.

Yeah i talked to him about it. My stove is pre epa but it is also a very early clean burn stove. I am by no means saying it is as efficient as new ones but for its age it is pretty efficient and clean burning. I absolutely respect your opinions and experience but when you say that Cherry walnut and maple cannot get dry in 8 months you are wrong it is very possible i do it every year. Would i rather be 3 years ahead? You bet but i live on 1/4 acre in town so i am not able to do that so i split small and dry fast. And i have never had my stove take off on me due to small splits i know some have a tendency to do so but knowing my situation i would not buy one of them.

 

[Hogwildz]

It all depends on the size ya split it I suppose.
We all do what we must. 1/4 acre is a tough one. That is one issue I am glad I don't have.
Guess the OP should weight these things in consideration when purchasing their stove.
I welcome and respect your opinions also. I guess it all depends on how opinions are expressed, as to how they are responded to.
And of course which way the wind is blowing, what positions the planets are lined in, and which side of the bed one wakes up on.
Hoping soon, we can all be talking about putting the stove night night till next season.

 

[Pennsyltucky Chris]

Cherry and Black Walnut won't be ready 8 or 9 months.

I had Cherry at 14-16% in 6 months.

From my experience, Cherry is ready after one summer.

 

[husky345 vermont resolute]

be nice guys spring is coming lol

 

[jatoxico]

be nice guys spring is coming lol

This evening is a shoulder season night. Got a load of sass ready to fire up. Actually wish I had some pine left but I am out. See how the sass does.

 

[Hogwildz]

This evening is a shoulder season night. Got a load of sass ready to fire up. Actually wish I had some pine left but I am out. See how the sass does.

Sass will burn similar to pine, but smells even better.

 

[jatoxico]

Sass will burn similar to pine, but smells even better.

It sure is snappy. Don't think I've ever burned a full load just pcs here and there. Just fired up.

 

[ohiojoe13]

Got about a half of truck load of cherry. It's all cherry and maple in there.

 

[claydogg84]

Got about a half of truck load of cherry. It's all cherry and maple in there.

Good stuff. If it's hard maple it's going to struggle to burn after the 8 or so months you have. If you're unsure, snap a photo and share it - There are a few guys here that are very good at tree identification.

 

[jatoxico]

Got about a half of truck load of cherry. It's all cherry and maple in there.

Keep it coming and...get it split ASAP. One mistake I made was stacking too deep when I was trying to get ahead and putting up a lot of wood in a short time. I wanted to save space and wasn't setup right. I stacked on pallets but didn't allow for the airflow I needed. When it came time to burn, even though it was 3 year CSS the stuff in the interior wasn't fully dry.

Some of my wood is still stacked on pallets but now two single rows instead of solid through. If you're trying to get wood ready for next season I'd say single rows are essential.

 

[claydogg84]

Keep it coming and...get it split ASAP. One mistake I made was stacking too deep when I was trying to get ahead and putting up a lot of wood in a short time. I wanted to save space and wasn't setup right. I stacked on pallets but didn't allow for the airflow I needed. When it came time to burn, even though it was 3 year CSS the stuff in the interior wasn't fully dry.

Some of my wood is still stacked on pallets but now two single rows instead of solid through. If you're trying to get wood ready for next season I'd say single rows are essential.

How deep were you stacked, and what kind of wood? I'm asking because I'm currently set up like that and am hoping it will be good after 2-3 years. It's not ideal but I'm stacked 3 pallets deep by 4 wide for my one section.

 

[jatoxico]

How deep were you stacked, and what kind of wood? I'm asking because I'm currently set up like that and am hoping it will be good after 2-3 years. It's not ideal but I'm stacked 3 pallets deep by 4 wide for my one section.

These were single pallets so what are they 3.5-4'? Mostly oak but other hardwoods too, maple, some sass, locust. Had a 2 yr pallet of ash that really could have been better too. Probably could be successful in 2-3 years if; effectively top covered and in breezy/sunny location. If you're stacked multiple pallets deep you'll need a prime location and top cover IMO.

I have a fair amount of shade so not the best conditions. It was a big disappointment to hit marginal wood especially once you've had better. I ended doing some restacking and don't do that anymore. For the OP whose trying to get wood seasoned in a few months for next year, go single row.

 

[Dix]

Pine, cherry, ash, elm split small.

What Hogs said. That pine will get you through. You can mix it with less than seasoned hardwoods, and it'll get the job done.

I love pine, easy to get around here, as most people stack it by the road, and look at me like I'm nuts when I knock on the door and ask if I can have it.

6 loads in the 8 foot bed of the F250 in one week. I was a happy camper.

 

[DougA]

Shade and lack of good airflow are a double whammy for good drying. Sometimes there is not enough room to provide a better solution, so you have to accept what you can't change. I was getting too much mold on my wood from exactly the same shade and lack of airflow problem, so I spent a month plus $500. this fall building a few wood sheds where I could properly store enough wood for 2-3 yrs. ahead. I've got the room in the yard for that but some don't. To be clear, I don't care if there is mold on my wood when it goes from outside into the stove immediately but I store a week's worth inside and mold is not something I can accept in my house on an ongoing basis. Mold in a house is really bad news.

I separate my rows by about 10". It kinda varies a bit as I'm not the neatest stacker and I don't know if 10" is enough or too much but I do know that an inch or two is not enough for good air flow. A lot also depends upon which direction the gap is going vs. the normal prevailing winds. I altered mine so that the wind now goes through rather than over and around the wood. I used to stack against a leeward wall that was shaded almost all day. The wood did dry eventually but was moldy.

If you want dry wood, all of these things combine to make a difference.

 

[ohiojoe13]

What are the characteristics of soft and hard maple? Also you guys say split small. How small is small? Like 4"? Thanks for all the help. I love that I can post in this forum and have answers in minutes.

 

[Dix]

4" or so is good, stack single rows.

Keep anything in rounds that you can at 3" or so, to help with over night burns.

Rounds help alot when it's frigid outside.

 

[drz1050]

I have about 4 cords stacked on pallets 3 splits deep right alongside the train tracks.. it's a mix of birch, beech, oak and random other woods... mostly hard, with a little bit of pine and box elder thrown in. Lots of air flow, and no shade. Have had it there since last spring/ summer... hoping it'll be dry by next winter. Even when there's no breeze, the train comes by about 12x/ day so that creates some movement.. that was my thought process at least, not sure if it's enough to make any difference though.