Final Questions for First Time Install

[Walt_85]

I was going to post this as an add-on to my first questions I posted last night, but since I'm not getting much traffic on that thread, I figured I'd just start a new one. Plus, those questions were pretty much laid to rest from the help I got from this site and through some manufacturer answers.

I have a few final questions that I need to get straightened out before getting everything ordered.

Background: I am going to be installing a Lopi Republic 1750i into a existing zero clearance fireplace.

1) I am going to have to use a off-set box and I'm assuming that I'm going to need to use some high temp sealant. Can anyone make some sealant recommendations?

2) About half to 3/4 of my entire chimney is exposed steel above my roof, do you all think I should insulate the chimney liner? Has anyone here used that stuff called "metalbestos"? Opinions?

3) Does anyone know if I need to use the stove flue adaptor in conjunction with the off-set box, or will the off-set box serve the same function as the flue adaptor on the stove outlet?

4) Is there any way to cleanly trim the surround panels without cutting it with a torch?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice/suggestions.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

IME with offset boxes, as long as the run is long enough I've never needed to use any type of sealant. If you need to (absolutely need to and I'd test it first) I'd use furnace cement myself.

Insulating the liner when possible is always a good idea but usually very tough in a pre-fab chimney. Metalbestos I'm unsure of as far as insulating. I've only ever used the foil lined stuff from Copperfield and armor mesh when insulating liner kits. I've only ever had it work in masonry chimneys for the most part. Most prefab chimneys seem to be 6"-9" which makes it tough to insulate it and snake it down the existing flue.

The offset box should fit in there, if not I'd crimp it to fit. If your fireplace is too short to connect the liner right to it and you need an offset box chances are a stovetop adapter will not fit in there.

I've cut panels with a metal blade in a skill saw with great luck. Use a grinder to de-burr them so they aren't like a steak knife or you are guarenteed metal slivers and some cuts if it fights you. A plasma cutter is also a dream in this situation.....

I'm unfamiliar with the stove you are putting in. Is it approved for a ZC box installation? I'd be careful if it isn't. I wish you the best of luck. I hope this helps.

 

[Walt_85]

Per the insert installation manual and the customer support department of the manufacturer, I should be good to go with installing this insert into my ZC fireplace....but here's hoping those two sources are correct.

My current chimney diameter is 11 inches, so hopefully I won't have too hard of a time fitting insulation around the liner. So using the foil lined insulation is good enough to keep the flue performing optimally?

Unfortunately I don't have a skill saw, but do you think a dremel and a steady hand would work? Would definitely take alot longer, but the budget is really getting strained and I already have a dremel.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Is the inner diameter 11" or the outer diameter? That's the important part.

If the installation manual approves it and you don't have to gut it and remove internal pieces you are good to go. When people start removing the brick from the bottom of the fireplace and the insert isn't approved that's where you run into trouble. The Jotul tech guy told me he has basically made it near impossible to put an insert in a ZC fireplace because there is just too much risk. They wouldn't approve it if it posed any danger because it's too much liability. These companies don't want you to burn your house down even if they lose a sale over it. You should be good to go.

The foil insulated ceramic wool is the beez neez when it comes to religns. Make sure you use armor mesh around it. It won't be cheap but you won't ever regret it. It keeps the liner just a little warmer which makes start up fires easier. It also tones down the temp outside of the liner. Ask away. I've done a LOT of installs but there are people here that put me to shame even so you are in good hands.....

 

[Walt_85]

The inside diameter of the opening of the flue in the currect ZC is 11 inches and it doesn't look to get smaller the further is goes. But all I can do at this point is look from the bottom up, so I guess it could be less than 11 inches at the top.

I have another question for you: The dealer is quoting me $654 for the liner kit but I'm searching for the insulation kits now and I see that I can get complete liner kits for $420. Is there really $230 worth of difference between what a dealer will sell and what I can get offline?

Any comment as far as using a dremel to cut the surround panels?

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

The price may be regional dependant. One thing to consider is that your dealer will be your warranty go-to-guy. If you have an issue with manufacturers defect you stuff the liner in your truck, drive down the road and they take care of you. If you order one online, you have no idea what kind of customer service you will recieve if there is a manufacturers defect... Politics aside, I've never seen a flex liner fail without many many years of heavy use but your chimney sweep will be able to catch that. It would be benificial to climb on the roof and measure the inside diameter before you buy anything. I wouldn't be shocked if it was an 8 or 9 inch diameter. I haven't installed a Lopi insert in ages but they aren't a cheap manufacturer and they use pretty thick guage steel for their panels. A dremel would make it a very tedious and painful job. I'd measure it, mark the panel and go pay the one hour minimum for a metal fab shop to cut it. A dremel would likely give you arthritis if you attempted it....