Finally got my new liner! First fires and pics

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kingston73

Member
Feb 10, 2011
172
SE MA
I posted a while back about my unfortunately poor experience with a stove installer. I just had a second company come and inspect the setup and clean the flue, I'm much happier with them so far, they seemed much more professional and knowledgeable than the first guy. They gave me a write of the work that needs to be done and I wanted to run it by all of you and check to make sure the price seems right and also ask you if you think I should have anything done, or request a different setup. I currently have an 8x8 outside masonry chimney 13 ft tall, and they found cracks in three sides running a good length of the chimney so we definitely had a chimney fire in there at some point and a liner is a must have item now.

They want to install a flex liner and replace the single-wall pipe inside with double wall to meet code clearances, and also will replace the stainless piece of class A pass through with an actual certified pass through. They would seal up the old cleanout at the bottom of the chimney (ground level) and install a new cleanout door higher up so the Tee can be accessed. They'd be using DVL duravent pipe for everything and would put a double wall extension at the top of the chimney, above the flex liner, to increase the total flue height and bring it up to code. Total for that would be about $1550, sound about right for that kind of work?

They also recommended a sealant for the outside of the chimney for $300. Is that something I could do, something easily found at Homedepot or the like that you paint or spray on?

We also have a separate flue for our oil burner, it's in good shape inside with no cracks, but the very top clay tile needs replacing and the top outer edges of the chimney are cracked and need some fixing, plus the flashing needs some work and it drips a little water into the attic. They gave a quote of $1080 to replace the tile, fix the cracks and the flashing, and put a cap on it. Again, sound about right price wise?

My biggest question is this: we don't have the money to do both right now, so I'm split about what choice to make. I don't think the oil burner flue is a safety issue and would like to be able to burn wood this winter, so I'm thinking I'll get the liner done now and fix the oil flue next summer. Thoughts and opinions are appreciated, thanks ahead of time.

Pictures of the current setup, basically unusable until the inside black singlewall is replaced and the whole deal has a proper liner:
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I remember that chimney.

I would be pleased with the quote for the chimney work given the materials and labor involved. I would seal it myself because I have a sprayer and ladders and plenty of time. If I didn't, I would be happy with that estimate as well.

The oil burner does not appear to present a hazard at the moment.
 
They also recommended a sealant for the outside of the chimney for $300. Is that something I could do, something easily found at Homedepot or the like that you paint or spray on?

I wouldnt pay $300 for them to seal it, I buy siloxan at my local masonry dealer and spray it on myself. The rest sounds reasonable.
 
Finally got the liner and damn glad I had it done professionally. The guys replaced my class A section of pipe serving as a thimble with an actual thimble. They found that the previous incompetent installer had rested the class A section right on a wood support beam and the pass through wasn't even close to code for clearances. They expanded the clearances and packed rock wool around the outside and left the coded air clearances for around the thimble. They put a 6 inch liner down the chimney and extended it above the current brick chimney so it was the required height above the roof line. Inside I have double wall stove pipe up to the thimble so now it'll actually pass inspection. Here's the completed setup, already lit one break-in fire up to about 200 degrees and I'm letting it cool now. Can't wait to light the first regular temp fire and see the secondaries.

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I've made several small break in fires over the weekend, I have a condar thermometer on the stove top and so far the hottest fire has only gotten a bit over 350. I'm wondering since the Condar is meant to be on a single wall exhaust pipe, what temp should I be trying to maintain for the stove top?
 
kingston73 said:
I've made several small break in fires over the weekend, I have a condar thermometer on the stove top and so far the hottest fire has only gotten a bit over 350. I'm wondering since the Condar is meant to be on a single wall exhaust pipe, what temp should I be trying to maintain for the stove top?

Tough to say as everyone's circumstances are different. But that seems a bit low. I would shoot for 500-600 range, which means cut it back at 400ish as it will continue to climb afterwards while the nasties are burning off.
 
I assume your thermometer gives a reading in degrees (probably F) and also gives ranges for the target temperatures. Just ignore the optimum ranges since they are for single walled pipe whereas you're reading stove top temps. However, I think the thing should read a stove top temperature as accurately as a pipe temperature (in other words, perhaps not very accurately) so the temp readings should be useful. I think most stoves get up to the 600 degree range on a nice, hot fire. Of course you should read your manual, but I think you want to be way over 250F.
 
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