Finally got my Osburn 2400 insert installed!! - Thank you everyone!!!

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by whodaman, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    Sometimes stove top temps aren't the best indicator of when to begin shutting down. If the wood is all flaming I will begin shutting down as long as I'm over 300°.

    Whodaman, make sure you're shutting down in stages, not all at once. Also you will have more success loading your stove in cycles. Having such a large firebox allows us to avoid over coaling so you can get away with burning the way you are, but you will probably have more success burning in full cycles.

    Glad you're happy with your insert.
     
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  2. whodaman

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    Thank you for the great advice! I try as best as I can to shut down in stages, I'm just not sure if I'm doing it the best way. Once the wood is flaming I cut her down to about half and then I wait. How long should I wait before cutting down again? Should I be cutting in 1/4 increments? Also, do you manually turn your blower on? If so, when you do turn the blower on? (do you wait until it gets to about 400 degrees or when it's at 200 degrees stovetop temp)

    sorry for so many questions, trying to learn as much as I can :)
     
  3. etiger2007

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    I adjust the air in quarter increments. The blower is heat activated so I leave mine on full bore once it kicks on, I turn it off whenever I open the door to re-load or mess around. When I make an air adjustment i can see the flames get lazy, I do not make another adjustment until the flames recover.

    I will add this, I was talking to a guy up at SBI the other day and we got talking about how to run the stove, and he told me to adjust the air down like i do , then close the air all the down, wait for the flames to leave the wood and I should still have fire in the top of the box around the tubes, slowly open the air until I have very lazy flames coming off the wood and these flames will keep the secondaries up top lit and will increase the length of the burn. He said it will take some practice to get it right. I tried it this weekend and I lost secondaries all together a couple times. Just thought I would share this with you guys.
     
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  4. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    I operate my fan manually. I will usually turn it on low once the stove top reaches 400*. If i need more heat I'll wait until 500* then crank the fan on high. Most of the time i keep the fan on low, but this year I've been using high a little more often. I've been cranking it on high to bring the temps up where I want quickly, then turn it down to low and let it slowly climb or hold steady for hours.
     
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  5. whodaman

    whodaman
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    Well Ed, I've got bad news. I did the door inspection last night and everything looked great until I got to looking by the handle where you close the door. I could see fire in the box through the rope gasket.
    What should I do now? Should I send an email or call SBI? It doesn't look real bad, but you can see glow in the box.
     
  6. whodaman

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    Thanks man
     
  7. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    You can adjust that door and pull it tight. I'm at work right now but when I get a minute I will post a how to. Or you can start a conversation with me and I can walk you through it.
     
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  8. etiger2007

    etiger2007
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    My issue was with the hinge side of the door and I couldnt adjust the handle to draw it in. Yours maybe fixable. Open the door, under the locking mechanism on the door you will see a roll pin, this pin stops the door handle from spinning around and around, pull that pin out, Now you can adjust your handle by turning the handle to the right or left, when your done latch the door shut to check your adjustment, your handle should not be super eazy to latch shut and it shouldnt take alot of effort to latch either. Once you think you have your handle set they way you want put the pin back in and your all set, you may do a dollar bill test in that area to see if it helped before you light your fire. Side note, you will want to get some anti sieze paste from the hardware store and put it on the threads of your handle that turn inside the casting of the door, this helps keep evrything moving smoothly. This should solve your issue becuase of the location of your gap. Good luck let us know how you do.
     
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  9. whodaman

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    SBI emailed me back already, here is what they sent. See pic below. I will try this first -

    pic.PNG

     
  10. whodaman

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    Thanks Ed! I will let you all know
     
  11. bag of hammers

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    As Ed and Datfatkidd mentioned, this is a pretty easy adjustment on the Osburn. Just a side note - on the bay models (1800, 2200) the spiral end has to come off the latch handle, to clear the side glass - otherwise pretty easy.
     
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  12. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    That's what I was going to say.
     
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  13. FyreBug

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    Hey guys, as a side note I asked our production/engineering to look into this. You should have to adjust the door of a brand new stove.

    Thanks for your input & I'll keep you posted.
     
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  14. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    Thanks. But is that supposed to say should "not" have to adjust a door on a brand new unit?
     
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  15. FyreBug

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    Sorry, Typo... You should not...

    We're looking into it.
     
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  16. whodaman

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    Hey all, is that spring pin pretty hard to remove? I tried tonight after the stove cooled down a bit and I could not get that thing to come out. My pliers kept slipping as I pulled and twisted. I pulled pretty hard too!
    Is there a trick to this? Looks fairly easy, but I guess nothing is ever very easy.
     
  17. whodaman

    whodaman
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    Okay, please let me know
     
  18. blwncrewchief

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    Yes, it does not come out easy. I grab mine from the end (pliers pointed toward the door) with a pair of channel lock pliers and wiggle it as I am pulling on it.
     
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  19. dafattkidd

    dafattkidd
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    It does not come out easily.
     
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  20. bag of hammers

    bag of hammers
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    FyreBug and SBI can advise on next steps - fwiw though, just sayin' that removing the 2 screws to take a cover plate off he air control on my unit last weekend required a med ratchet and a bit of persuasion (stove is put together like a tank) so it might take some elbow grease to pull the pin...? perhaps SBI would be kind enough to expedite / send you a spare, just in case (that would make me feel better if it was my unit).

    edit - spare pin, that is ;lol
     
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  21. etiger2007

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    Just be super careful and dont break it off in the door you will be screwed. I had to get one for my new door and its a 5/32 X 1/2 long roll pin, $0.30 at the hardware store.
     
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  22. bag of hammers

    bag of hammers
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    Yeah - ouch - good point Ed....
     
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  23. FyreBug

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    Hey guys, thanks for all your input. You're right that pin is tight... I've broken it myself in the past ;em I just talked to the Director of Tech Support and it's on the list of things to improve as well as looking into the gasket fit. We're not perfect but we try.

    Etiger... we're gonna make the pin part of the BOM for replacement door. Thanks for the heads up.

    PM me if you have any issues and we'll help you through it.
     
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  24. etiger2007

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    Maybe SBI could switch the pin with a solid pin vs a hollow easy to break pin, this would be a better option for the consumer as far as durability. Just thinking out loud.
     
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  25. whodaman

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    I guess I jumped the gun last night thinking the problem was resolved. The door closes pretty tight and I'm afraid that turning the handle counter clockwise one more time might make it really hard to close.
    I can still see glow from the fire right by where the latch is in the door and about an inch above that. It almost looks like the rope gasket is smashed down there.
    I guess I'm going to have to email SBI back with info.

    :(
     

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