Finally had a kickback with the MS261.

For the first time in a long time, I actually had a kickback. Nothing too terrible. The saw barely even moved, but it was enough to throw the chain brake on. The bar never even came out of the wood. Would have to guess at most the bar tip moved 2 inches up. Just a reminder to stay focused and keep both hands firmly on the saw while cutting. Nice that the chain brake came on so easily, but nothing to rely on.

Glad to hear you're still with us in one piece this fine New Year's morning, what kind of chain/bar were you using on that 261.

When these things happen, it's just a reminder.....I know when I get into the groove of cutting and moving on, I get a little careless, and sometimes need a reminder that this thing is dangerous

I am using full chisel chain and figured I had a good chance of a kickback with this situation. It wasn't a simple bucking cut, but a cut to get the splitter wedge unstuck from some 36" wide, really knotty, white oak. I actually had to start the cut with the dogs well away from the bark, and the kickback was easily controllable. What was surprising is that it wasn't as bad as everybody had been making it out to be with full chisel chain and the MS261. Don't know if I want to experience it though with the MS660, which also has full chisel chain on it.

Longer bar on the 660 combined with the wee bit 'o difference in engine torque will make it an entirely different animal.

There are varying degrees of kickback, from a bit of a bounce to finding yourself on your back with a chainsaw on your chest. An unfortunate few have sustained fatal injuries from being struck in the head or neck. The worse of them all are the gear-drives, they will launch from a binding kerf like a torpedo, broken bones and internal injuries are possible. Never have any part of your person behind the saw or in the lethal arc.

Glad the chain brake did what it was designed for
Even in a controlled kick back situation, nice to see the saw slam on the brakes

Yeah, no disagreement from me on that. I understand torque and leverage, and the MS660 would be a lot worse than the MS261. Hence, the reason I chose the MS261 for this cut. If I had already bought the MS170 I want, I would have used that. If my dad had brought his Craftsman, I would have used that. MS261 was the smallest saw we had on site.

Is it possible to cut without standing behind the saw? Do people really cut while standing to the side of the saw? I understand keeping my head out of the arc line, but I tend to cut by standing behind the saw so I have greater control over the saw. Think I would need a visual demonstration of what you are recommending.

I try to always be off to the side, if that sucker decides to fly, it will go right by. It isn't always possible, it is something to keep in mind. Being hooked by the Bull's horns is unpleasant.