Fire safety & fire stops

[Lake Girl]

NIST has done numerous studies on residential and light-weight construction - not a very long time to structure collapse.
fire.nist.gov/bfrlpubs/fire07/PDF/f07084.pdf

NIST also has a video of a scotch pine Christmas tree fire thats pretty scary ... room flashes over in 47 seconds!
fire.nist.gov/tree_fire.htm

Did a little look around for fire stop solutions. This very interesting product (intumescent material) is used in multiple family dwellings and assembly occupancies and triggers at 300 F (expands to fill void) to contain fire spread but really not applicable to residential setting. Frank (25 yr fire fighter) mentioned that if residential fire temp reaches 300 F, you best be out of the building already. Early detection with smoke detectors critical for life safety (really like the multiple linked detector units). Know your local residential building code requirements. Internal fusible links on ducting (165 F), fire stop caulking looks to be the best options. Rock wool insulation can add to peace of mind ....

Interesting explanation on residential versus commercial fire blocks/fire stops:

http://firestoppingcaulk.com/firestopping_vs_fireblocking.pdf (FlameTech website)

Intumescent seals just for fun! (multiple family dwellings)

http://www.stifirestop.com/product_information/product_selector/ssb_pillows.html

 

[jtakeman]

Interesting and thanks for sharing.

From this link

http://firestoppingcaulk.com/firestopping_vs_fireblocking.pdf

I quoted the below. Basically saying the vent pipe/ducting itself is supposed to be fire rated and acts like the firestop because it doesn't burn. Again, I have never seen a fire block/firestop(the ones with a fusible link) device in the forced air heating systems in my area. The duct itself is considered the fire block. If not please correct me?

Traditionally, fireblocking code sections found in BOCA, CABO, N.Y.S. Code, Mass. State Code, SBC, and the UBC all required openings around vents, pipes, ducts, and other mechanical penetrating items at ceiling and floor level to be fireblocked with “noncombustible†materials. The term noncombustible is defined in all model building codes as “Materials that Pass the Test Procedure for Defining Noncombustibility of Elementary Materials Set Forth in ASTM-E136â€. Simply put, ASTM has a test standard defining a noncombustible building material as a material that will not flame, smoke, or have significant weight loss when subjected to 1380° F. Upon passing this test, a manufacturer can label their product or material as a “Noncombustible†or “ASTM-E136†tested product. Using an ASTM-E136 rated product fulfils the code requirements for fireblocking penetrations because the material is tested and demonstrates not to burn at far higher temperatures than the burn time and burn temperature of wood.

Today, the IRC specifies an “Approved†material to resist the free passage of flame and products of combustion. This wording allows for ASTM-E814 and ASTM-E136 tested products to be used in fireblocking applications based upon the determination of the code enforcement official having jurisdiction. However, ASTM-E136 products are not compliant for ASTM-E814 applications. As always, it is important to check the manufacturers suggested installation procedures and to consult your local building department.

Great tips on the linked smoke detectors BTW. Something we are researching. Our battery smoke detectors are rather old and should to be replaced! Headed to the top of the honey-do list. ;-)

 

[Lake Girl]

If you look at the document fire stop / fire block, single residential dwellings are not fire rated (structurally).

You're right in the interpretation on the ducting along with fire stop caulking should meet code for single residential fire stop but local building authority has last word as local jurisdiction may have more requirements!

Multiple linked smoke detectors:
http://www.safetyproductsunlimited.com/wireless_smoke_alarm.html
Battery option best for our house as we have more frequent power interruptions - we're on the longest electric run in the province (Ontario).

These Kidde units are $50. I bought some for our condo in Winnipeg (kids going to university there) from Rona for about the same price ... 3 units in the package. Just got to get some for home now...

 

[jtakeman]

If you look at the document fire stop / fire block, single residential dwellings are not fire rated (structurally).

You're right in the interpretation on the ducting along with fire stop caulking should meet code for single residential fire stop but local building authority has last word as local jurisdiction may have more requirements!

Multiple linked smoke detectors:
http://www.safetyproductsunlimited.com/wireless_smoke_alarm.html

These Kidde units are $50. I bought some for our condo in Winnipeg (kids going to university there) from Rona for about the same price ... 3 units in the package. Just got to get some for home now...

My ducting was inspected by local guy. I had to to be sure what I did was safe and insurance reasons. Something I recommend to others that attach vent/duct to a stove. Just seemed the safe thing to do! I failed the first inspection with some plastic flexible vent covered in insulation on a few runs. He recommended a metalic flexible duct to replace it. I pulled the plastic duct out of the insulation and slide it over the flexible aluminum duct I purchased. Passed after the fix.

Thanks for the link on the detectors!