Firebrick for '79 Everex Berkshire wood stove 13.5 x 4.25 x 1.5

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Pete Petrosky

New Member
Mar 2, 2013
3
I have this model stove, but the back 6 firebricks have been broken, Where can I find this odd ball size brick? Everex has gone under it looks like. thanks Pete
 
Welcome, Pete. :)
Standard is 4.5 x 9. Some of the bricks on the bottom of the Buck 91 were held in place with silicone caulk (1000* stuff, I assume.) Maybe you could lay a brick on its side across the top of two bricks on end and silicone them in? I have no idea if this would work; More knowledgeable folks will be along shortly.
I am seeing some 13.5 x 4.5 bricks in a google search...
 
OK next question, what is the grate area up in the back of the stove up toward the flu exit? It looks like there is a place to set a grate or something but, that part did not come with the stove and it looks like the manufacture is out of business. As for the firebrick I think I have found a less expensive solution , I will use standard 9 in brick then lay one across the top IE 4.5 + 9 = 13.5 , not that a one or a two piece brick setup would be any better or worse , but that using the standard brick will be quite less expensive and I can pick them up locally.
 
Yup, standard bricks cost less than $3 each at the local concrete yard.

I'm going to guess that the bracket holds a baffle. If you have any pics it would be easier to say. Some baffles are a plate of heavy steel, some are ceramic, and some are firebrick.

Matt
 
OK its a iron plate so it must have fallen down when the accident happened , thank you now, my chimney pipe hole is on other side and up only a few feet from stove exit (3 feet) the distance around to the hole is almost 8 feet an will require 5 elbows , my question is , will I get enough updraft or will i need a low speed exhaust motor as well?
 
8 feet of pipe in a 3 foot rise sounds like a tough sell, especially if you have lots of elbows as they cut down the draft severely. If you have an extremely tall chimney you MAY be able to get away with it. I wouldn't bet on it though. A big problem with long horizontal runs is the lack of support and that pesky gravity. I wouldn't trust the joints even though they are screwed together. Lots of elbows gives me more cause for concern. I saw a post on another board where an swivel elbow came apart at the seam with a full load of wood in the stove. That's not something I ever want to experience and long runs put a lot of stress on a very weak elbow.

Matt
 
OK its a iron plate so it must have fallen down when the accident happened , thank you now, my chimney pipe hole is on other side and up only a few feet from stove exit (3 feet) the distance around to the hole is almost 8 feet an will require 5 elbows , my question is , will I get enough updraft or will i need a low speed exhaust motor as well?

That sounds like it might be a flame deflecting baffle. It lengthens the flame path. Some stove introduce air at this turn around via a separate air control. Not sure on your stove. Can you post some pictures of inside and out?
 
If you do have to cut them a masonry blade in a chop saw, miter saw or skil saw will work. Soak the bricks in water for 1/2 hour or so and you won't have any dust.
 
Be careful heating any rock or block that you know has been sitting in water. Any water trapped inside will turn to steam and if it can't find it's way out fast enough the energy really builds up. Rocks have been known to explode. This is the same principle that makes geysers happen instead of hot springs. The opening on a hot spring is large enough that pressure does not build up when the water is heated. In a geyser water isn't able to expand and turns to steam that is forced out of a small opening.

Pressure cookers work the same way also.

Matt
 
Post pics of your chimney set up, too. I'm having trouble imagining why you need 5 elbows. Good luck with this. You've come to the right place for honest and well informed answers.
 
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