Fired up the Greenwood today

[djblech]

I finally climbed up on the garage roof and put the chimney back up. I had it come down about a month ago in a heavy rain and wind storm. I put up 2-3' sections which gets me 8' off the roof, 6' above the peak. Fired up the GW, 2 short burns and I will stoke up the 3rd time in a little bit. Temp yesterday morn was only 5*. I have only been using the Liberty up to this point but the propane has been kicking in once in a while. My youngest daughter started at the U of MN this yr so I put up all the wood myself this year.
Doug

 

[91220da]

How's it running so far?

 

[djblech]

So far so good. Just stoked it for the night. My chimney is about a foot shorter than last year and I can tell the difference. Less chugging (dieseling) and it seems to burn a little slower. Haven't gotten into the big birch rounds yet, burning alot of popple and odd chunks to clean up my wood shed. Anyone know where I can get a draft assist that I can mount on my chimney? One that I can turn on when I open the door. That is the one improvement skeduled for this year. I am also watching the GW rebuilds as I may need to do this someday. My refractory does not have any cracks yet, so I think the furnace may be worth rebuilding.
Doug

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

I bought a Tjerlund(sp?) at Mike Nazaroth's prompting.That was back when I was foolish enough to think the company could/would help me. Anyway, I've never installed it, don't even know if it works.

Jimbo

 

[sparke]

A draft inducer in combination with a manometer is perfect. Unless you still have an overdraft, conditions change with the weather. With variable speed you can dial in your draft for optimal performance daily.

 

[Ldl0431usmc]

Greenwoods are particularly picky when it comes to draft. Make sure your chimney is at least 18' tall and two feet higher than anything within 10' to ensure adequate draft.

 

[djblech]

I have about 10' of class a chimney that is about 7' above the peak. I have measured draft with a manometer and added and taken off sections. I even had a baro damper in for a while. I had so much creosote build up with that damn thing as flue temps were to cold. I have the GW running better than ever this 3rd yr. I have never had to take it apart to clean, I don't get hard build up on the heat X, just ash which brushes off with a round chimney brush. I do not burn oak, mostly birch, some maple and popple. I get good heat but still not enough to heat my 2200 sqft house by itself. I need the liberty to keep it nice.
Doug

 

[Ldl0431usmc]

In that case, I would suggest looking into air sealing/insulation for your home as a way to reduce the heating demand.

 

[djblech]

I'm sure I could do a few things to improve the insulation and air sealing. I built the house with 24 large windows that I'm sure is adding to my heat loss. I'm not ready to give up my glass yet. If the GW were in the house and not in my shop it would be supplying the radiant heat that is keeping my shop at 65* to the house. I couldn't live with all that smoke in the house. My system works, but is far from ideal.
Doug

 

[Ldl0431usmc]

If you put it in the order of return on investment, windows are lowest on the list of improvements you should consider. Much cheaper would be to air seal and insulate the box sill in the basement (if you have one) then insulate the attic, then airseal around the windows, then replace/remove windows.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

So far so good. Just stoked it for the night. My chimney is about a foot shorter than last year and I can tell the difference. Less chugging (dieseling) and it seems to burn a little slower. Haven't gotten into the big birch rounds yet, burning alot of popple and odd chunks to clean up my wood shed. Anyone know where I can get a draft assist that I can mount on my chimney? One that I can turn on when I open the door. That is the one improvement skeduled for this year. I am also watching the GW rebuilds as I may need to do this someday. My refractory does not have any cracks yet, so I think the furnace may be worth rebuilding.
Doug

Look into the Exhausto, one of the advertisers on Hearth. If it doesn't work as advertised they will take it back. You just need to get over the sticker shock, Randy

 

[trailhound68]

I have never had to take it apart to clean, I don't get hard build up on the heat X, just ash which brushes off with a round chimney brush.

I finally resorted to cutting the top of my Seton to clean the back half of the heatx'er. Man what a difference it made in terms of longer burn times.
Next year's mod's will include a new lid and easy access to the HX'r.

 

[Pat53]

I have never had to take it apart to clean, I don't get hard build up on the heat X, just ash which brushes off with a round chimney brush.

I finally resorted to cutting the top of my Seton to clean the back half of the heatx'er. Man what a difference it made in terms of longer burn times.
Next year's mod's will include a new lid and easy access to the HX'r.

trail, when you say "longer burns", do you mean your burn times are shorter now? It would seem that with a cleaner HX you would get quicker heat transfer and shorter burn times?

I modified the back of my Seton last year so I can take most of the back panel off without disconnecting any plumbing, and get easy access to the vertical HX tubes. BTW, how did your HX look?

Pat