Fireplace insert option ?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

rdh1223

New Member
Oct 18, 2015
8
New York
Hi all, I've been lurking here for awhile trying to sift through enough information to make an informed decision on a good wood stove insert or free standing (I'll leave the wood furnace ideas for later) and I just can't seem to work out exactly what I want with what will fit and more importantly what is safe giving my current masonry fireplace. I'm going to try to upload some photos of what I have, any input would be appreciated.
We just bought the house last November so I can say that during a very mild winter we used about 225 gallons of oil per month December to end of February for our heat and hot water needs. House is built in 1960s single pane windows (lots of em) and probably not insulated very well. House has forced air heat/ac and is about 2400 sq ft without the partial basement.
Upon inspection tge fireplace has the metal "top" used in the 60s to avoid the cost of a skilled mason and it goes to a circular chimney pipe. The chimney itself is brick and goes all the way to tge roof, both furnace and fireplace are using the chimney but with 2 differect exhausts. I can't tell the size of the actual fulireplace chimney pipe but it looks like I would be restricted by the choke point where the original damper was. Previous owner cut old damper out and uses a chimney cap that opens and closes with a cord mounted to the left side of the fireplace. Choke point seems to measure about 7 inches or so but it's at an angle so unsure if liner would clear it or not. Front opening 36 rear wall 26.5 sides longest point 21.25 height 30.5.

I really wanted the enviro cabello but fireplace isnt deep enough was going to just go buy the Boston but 3k is alot to spend before you know if it will work lol. Also the chimney brick is not on an exterior wall. Again any help especially with the chimney liner aspect and fitment of the stove would be most appreciated. Oh and house does not have and open floor plan 1960's expanded cape cod 3 bedrooms upstairs. Fireplace is in a "sitting"room in between a larger living room and the main hallway going to the dining room and stairway to 2nd floor.
 

Attachments

  • 20160716_105408.jpg
    20160716_105408.jpg
    113.2 KB · Views: 146
  • 20160716_105457.jpg
    20160716_105457.jpg
    141.4 KB · Views: 145
  • 20160716_105519.jpg
    20160716_105519.jpg
    185.8 KB · Views: 166
  • 20160716_105529.jpg
    20160716_105529.jpg
    119.2 KB · Views: 154
  • 20160716_111248.jpg
    20160716_111248.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 157
  • 20160716_112456.jpg
    20160716_112456.jpg
    127.9 KB · Views: 160
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome. The fireplace looks deep enough for the Cabello or Boston 1700. The Venice, Cabello and Boston are all the same firebox, just different front trim. A brick could be knocked out from the smoke shelf to help the insulated liner clear more easily.

Screen Shot 2016-07-16 at 8.50.18 AM.png
 
Hmm i just stumbled onto a regency hi300 on craigslist for $1200? Seems like a good deal stove looks like its about 5 years old or so. It comes with 10 ft liner. I would need about 5-8 foot more liner is it possible to use more then a single piece of liner or can i use rigid/flex together? Also i have just looked up the manual for it and I'm somewhat confused as to how it gets wired up, manual says "DO NOT ROUTE POWER CORD UNDER OR IN FRONT OF UNIT." Well where would I route it ? The floor of the masonry fireplace has a slot about the size of a brick that has a metal cover on it that was once used to brush the ashes down under the fireplace. There's a clean out for it in the basement. I was planning on using that access point to run the electric for the stove. Any suggestions?
 
The warning is for commonsense safety. The front and bottom of the insert can get very hot and the wire insulation is plastic. Running the cord in front or under the insert could expose it to more heat than it is rated for, thus causing an unsafe condition.. Normally the cord is run away from the insert to an outlet on the side wall. The ability to disconnect the appliance needs to be close to the insert, again for safety. If the goal is to power it through the basement then it should have shielding and a wall switch near the insert for disconnecting it for servicing or in the event of a problem like a motor fire, frayed wire, etc..

Is the used liner rigid or flex? If the used liner fits the chimney then it might be able to be spliced with a coupler. But for this short run I would prefer to run a new, insulated liner. The savings over a new stove are enough to easily pay for the new liner. For optimal operation the liner should be at least 15'.
 
Lol I'm silly, just got off the phone with the owner and it does indeed have a plug. I guess from looking at pictures and not seeing a plug/outlet I just assumed it was hardwired behind the faceplate somewhere. Going to look at it first thing in the morning. Stove is 7yrs old and had the fan motor replaced 2 seasons ago is $1200 a reasonable price for this stove I can't seem to find a real msrp online...
 
The Hampton 300i is a good heater and a handsome stove. That's a good price if it's in nice condition and has seen low usage. Examine thoroughly for any cracks, broken welds, signs of overfiring. If no problems go for it. If this is an exterior wall fireplace consider putting in a block-off plate in the damper area to keep the heat around the insert.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.