Fireplace Insert Replacement

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Forrest77

New Member
Aug 17, 2014
13
OH
Hello,

We are buying a house that currently has a fireplace insert and the inspection determined that the insert needs to be replaced.

This our first house that has a fireplace so we are both excited and uneducated at the same time. Growing up my parents had a wood burning fireplace insert and I loved it, even the summers we spent splitting lumber.

I know absolutely nothing about brands or anything like but do know that we would like to find something that will be efficient and within budget.

Attached are couple pictures of the current fireplace and insert. The house is a 70's tri-level and the fireplace is on the mail level of the 3200 sqft house.

We are looking for suggestions and recommendations for a solid replacement.

Thanks,
Forrest

fireplace.png fireplace2.png
 
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Welcome. There are a number of good inserts out there. In order to recommend one that will fit, we'll need to know the fireplace interior dimensions. Note that the current installation is not proper also because the hearth needs to extend 16" in front of the glass. This can be at the current stove level or at floor level which probably is more practical.
 
even the summers we spent splitting lumber.

Please be aware that any new EPA-approved insert/stove will require dry seasoned wood to heat well and burn safely. That is usually achieved by splitting and stacking the firewood out in the open for 1 to 3 years depending on the wood species. Since you are just moving in, I assume you don't have any wood yet. It will be difficult to find a dealer that sells seasoned firewood with an internal moisture content of less than 20%. Hence, I suggest to first take care of the wood and then take your time in shopping for an appropriate insert.
 
That is good to know begreen. So does this mean that the replacement insert will need to be a flush mount?

Grisu, Im not sure if we will be buying a brand new insert but will take that into consideration as well. In the area here its not difficult to find good seasoned wood.
 
That is good to know begreen. So does this mean that the replacement insert will need to be a flush mount?

Grisu, Im not sure if we will be buying a brand new insert but will take that into consideration as well. In the area here its not difficult to find good seasoned wood.

Not sure if even a flush mount will give you enough hearth clearance. What you have there looks pretty shallow. You can easily solve that by putting a hearth extensions on the floor. Here are some examples: http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Wood-Stove-and-Accessories/Hearth-Extensions/?state=14088 You can also search for "stove boards" to find some less pricey alternatives. Your building inspector/home insurance have to decide whether a removable extension is enough or if it needs to be permanently attached to the hearth/floor.Btw. You may also need to check out the mantel whether it is combustible and you have enough clearance with the insert you want to install.

Regarding the wood: Make sure what you get is really dry. Many members found here that purchased seasoned wood rarely lives up to its billing. Ask when it has been split as wood does not dry when still in logs. I also suggest to be there when it gets delivered, split a few pieces in half and check the moisture content with a moisture meter ($20 to $30 in hardware stores or the internet) by pushing in the pins along the grain in the freshly exposed surface. Below 20% is perfect, below 25% is burnable. Above that I would only pay for green wood and stack it in my yard for further drying. When shopping around, ask for ash as that has a pretty low moisture content already right after cutting and usually dries within a year.
 
I measured the depth of the hearth and it is 11 inches so any options and suggestions are greatly appreciated. I have not been able to get the measurements of the opening but the panels measure 42 inches wide and 30 inches tall.
 
Any wood you buy now will not be ready to burn this winter. Wood sellers simply don't have the time, space, nor inclination to dry firewood before it's sold.
 
Finding dry wood is a challenge but not impossible. We recently found a good supplier in CT. In the Seattle area I would trust Thomas. http://www.nwfuel.com/seattle-bellevue-seasoned-firewood.html

Seasoned wood is sometimes available from established wood suppliers. It depends on your location and it will cost more. They need to store if for a year, under cover. I would recommend contacting well established wood sellers in your area and ask if they guarantee the wood moisture content to be <20%. Ask when the wood was split and how it was stored. Also ask the species. Oak and hickory will take longer to season. Avoid a seller that has the wood stored in a pile outdoor, cut this spring or summer. If you find a good supplier, order now. In a month their supplies of dry wood will be dwindling if not gone.
http://www.gormanlandscape.com/
http://www.bbb.org/dayton/accredited-business-directory/firewood/dayton-oh
 
I measured the depth of the hearth and it is 11 inches so any options and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

That will not be enough even when you get a flush insert. 16" is minimum in the US and could be more depending on the requirements stated in the manual of the model you choose. You could extend the brick hearth at the same level with the existing one but that will be quite elaborate. Other option is to extend the hearth at the floor level either by adding tiles or buying a hearth extender as I suggested in my previous post. Since your insert is sitting up there I doubt you will need more than ember protection in a floor level hearth but the dealer/manufacturer will be able to advice you on that.
I have not been able to get the measurements of the opening but the panels measure 42 inches wide and 30 inches tall.

Since it is unknown how much brick the surround covers those measurements won't really help in deciding which insert would fit. You will also need the fireplace depth to shop around. Once you have moved in, see if you can pull the surround off; often you just need to pull it straight up.

If you cannot find dry wood, take a look at compressed wood logs like Eco-bricks and Bio-bricks. They cost about 30 % to 40 % more than cordwood but are guaranteed dry and still significantly cheaper than oil or propane.
 
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