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First Time Post...A few questions

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Throttlebender, Oct 4, 2006.

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  1. Throttlebender

    Throttlebender New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Messages:
    9
    Loc:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Hey everyone. I've been lurking and studying for a few weeks now. Great site! I've search various articles and posts and have learned a lot but want to clarify several things please.
    Background info:
    1) Live in Cincinnati
    2) 3 story brick home, 2200sq ft, circa 1904
    3) Having a guy come out to measure this week and inspect so not sure on specifics yet
    4) Chimney is internal and at least 30ft
    5) Not sure if it's lined but I don't think it is as when I broke through the false wall that was built over the fireplace, I found a deep pile of what appears to be old mortar. It's so old it looks like dirt.

    So, I'm ordering a Jotul F500 Oslo and will snug it right up to the opening on the existing fireplace. I'm cutting into my floor to extend the hearth to Jotul's specs. I'll be laying slate over concrete board but it will be flush with the rest of the floor. I plan on running a flex liner and will insulate it regardless of whether or not the chimney is lined.

    My questions are these:
    1) I keep reading about flex connectors and tees. Does having a tee off the back of the stove make for easier cleaning and if so, how? Won't I still have to pull my stove out of the fireplace opening at each cleaning?
    2) If my chimney is in fact 30ft or more, can I safely and effectively insulate the top 25ft of the liner? Most blankets I see are 25ft in length? Can I leave an un-insulated space between the bottom block plate and where the insulation would start or should I just scoot the block off plate further up the chimney to meet the insulation?
    3) The flue, being 6", insulated, and 30ft will have a pretty healthy draft I assume. Is it possible to draft TOO much?
    4) Also reading through Jotul's warranty it states that warranty is voided if not installed by a qualified installer. Anyone have experience or opinions on this? Define qualified. I will probably be installing this unit myself with the help of a master carpenter who has installed and lined dozens of stoves and chimneys. We will follow their installation instructions exactly. So...?

    I know I've been kinda "wordie" with my first post, but I'm just excited and nervous to do a good job. Thanks for any input.

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,332
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Wow, yes, that's going to be a tall stack that will probably draft strongly. I'll leave it up to the pros to cover the caveats. But I can say that as to question 4 I ran into the same thing. This is where having a great dealerthat goes to bat for you really counts. If you buy the piping from the dealer and maybe have them do a post install inspection + certification, then you should be ok. Ultimately it's the dealerthat's going to go to bat for you if there is a warranty issue down the road. So it's best to discuss this with them and find out there policy ahead of time.
  3. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
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    28,740
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    BeGreen is absolutely right, but I am going to love the dealer responses to this one. Every stove maker's manual has the same escape clause about a "qualified installer" and does not define what the hell that is. Every stove store in this area refers the buyer to a contractor for installation and I have always wondered where the rubber meets the road when things go wrong.
  4. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy New Member

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    Northern Colorado Mountains
    Every thing seems real good, your doing things right the first time. The T would go under the damper, and then strait horizontal pipe to the T from the stove. You will have a very strong draft. Probably to much, you should find a way to help the stove restrict air, i would recomend a barometric damper. As far as warrenty. The way we handle it is like this. No permit, no warrenty. If permit pulled then go to homeowners site and verify the problem. If its a installation problem, then its your dime. If its a manufacturing problem, then its our dime. If the stove looks overfired, we take photos and email them to the jotul R&D and let them make the call. The manufacture relies on us to make to make the call.
  5. Throttlebender

    Throttlebender New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Messages:
    9
    Loc:
    Cincinnati, OH
    MSG,

    Does one reach under the stove to uncap the tee for cleaning? Having trouble visualizing the cleaning process.
    Where do I find and what is cost of a barometric damper? How is it installed and is it something that I can do after I assess my draft situation?
    As to the warranty, I'm in the process of getting a permit for all this.

    No opinions about the insulation?

    Thanks again to All for your help.
  6. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    Insulation should be from the damper plate to the chimney top plate. The section uninsulated is where cresote will form.
    no insulation is needed between the stove and the blockoff plate besides it would look ugly.

    One other thing you did not mention the transition threw the damper .Are you going to ovalize the pipe of cut the damper out enough to transition it round (The better way)
  7. Throttlebender

    Throttlebender New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Messages:
    9
    Loc:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Well, the strange thing is that it doesn't appear that I have a damper and the area where it would be looks like a reverse image of all the illustrations I've seen up to this point. What I mean is that, it doesn't look like there is a "lip" facing the front that the line would have to curve over to go up the chimney. It looks like the opening is at the back of the fireplace and just goes straight up to the roof. I'm still doing demo and clean out of the false wall, so haven't gotten all the way inside yet. In any case, I will take out bricks if necessary to run round pipe.
  8. Nokoni

    Nokoni New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2005
    Messages:
    145
    T: don't know if this is normal or not but my stove has to be pulled out/away from the double wall connector pipe in order to be cleaned. my clean out area is closed in behind the wall. seemed to be no problem when the chimney cleaners came. as for a permit in this area, kind of weirdo. you do legally need one. email me if you are who i think you are. crow and i both had similar issues.
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