first time poster-looking to possibly buy an insert

[Bocefus78]

New guy here....I am a landscaper and this year I have stumbled upon a ton of free firewood thanks to some bad storms/wind. Good wood at that. Ash and Oak. I use some of it in the smoker but I have been giving most of it to friends that heat w/ wood but now I am thinking of purchasing a WB insert. I priced a Regency 1200 (I think it was--the smallest one) yesterday and for the unit, blower, liners, connections, etc, it was rougnly $3500. Does this seem right? I know about the tax credit from reading here. I do not want to install myself.

What are some other units comparable to the regency 1200 that you all would reccomend. 1800sq 2 story home. Main level where the unit will be is only 800. I was honstly looking to spend around $2000 all said and done . At $3500, I would have to burn for 6 years to recoup my losses for the intiial purchase. I am not sure I will be in this house that long. I live alone and keep it at 67 in the winter. Heat bills are usually around $160-180/ month at that temp. I would like to turn it up, but dont want the bill that accompanies it.

I could ramble on for hours but I will shut up and listen.

 

[begreen]

Greetings and welcome. If it will fit, I would be putting in a bigger insert for longer burn times, better cold weather heating and bigger log size. That would put you in the 2+ cu ft firebox range. You (and your bones) are going to love wood heat. Payback is one thing, but what value do you place on comfort and a great fire view?

In Regency I would be looking at the I2400 instead. While you are at it, maybe look at the Pacific Energy Super insert if there is a dealer in the area.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

One thing you might want to consider is how dry your wood is. Unless split very small, oak will take more than a summer to become good and dry. Ash may dry enough to give a good burn. You might want to consider this as a project you start now, by getting your wood up and drying, then finish before next year's winter. The only reason I mention this is most of the issues that new burners have is related to their wood not being dry enough.

Matt

 

[Fsappo]

I agree with going larger if you are going to invest at all. You should get a min 2.0 cubic foot firebox (Id go for 2.5 or so) The larger capacity will allow you to heat more of your home and for true overnight burns. Both of these things will create a much faster payback on investment

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Start splitting Ash now, You would probably be fine by November.

Have you thought about just putting a freestanding stove in the hearth and running the pipe back into the Fireplace and then up? That's what I did. I did the install myself and spent a little less than $2K. I live alone most of the time and wood supplies 90% of my heat for 2,200 square feet. Most folks (including me) make the mistake of going to small.

How big is the flue on the chimney?

Welcome!
Mike

 

[Bocefus78]

Ash is already split and ready to burn. It was dead when I dropped it. Burnt some last weekend in the fire pit just to test.

The oak is green as all get out.....Its a huge tree....3+ ft at the base.....5+ where it forks off 5 ways. Brought home 2 trailer loads last nite. Going back in just a second actually.

I will be looking at larger units if they will fit....havent measured anything yet.....I have a cheapo prefab home with a cheapo fireplace....nothing nice...nothing masonry

Only reason for wanting it now is so I get the tax credit. I know I dont have enough wood ready to go for this season. At least not yet. I have a few people I could trade green for dry.

As far as the warmth goes, I do realize that I can keep it much warmer w/ wood heat and probably save even more $$$ vs. the gas bill. I keep it at 67 or so b/c of the cost....not comfort level.....TRUST ME.

Thanks for the replies. Please keep them coming. I hope to get some measurements tonight.....depending on how late I cut.

 

[Delta-T]

if you have a factory built fireplace you may need to check to see if its possible to use the firebox to install an insert. Does you fireplace have a decent class A pipe setup? Like zzr7ky says, you may be better served by going with a free standing unit and attaching it to your existing pipe. That would give you a much broader selection of stove sizes and "looks", possible even a lower price tag when all is said and done. Why not install yourself?? Stove installation, aside from referencing code requirements and stuff, is as easy as splitting wood.

"as all get out" ?? is that a middle America thing?? I've not heard that one before. Here everything is wicked pissah.

 

[begreen]

No point sending you off on a tangent. Get some measurements and a couple shots of the existing fireplace. Post them here when you get a chance.

 

[Bocefus78]

Heres some pics.....not sure what you wanted. Existing fireplace is a heatalator either a36R or a42R. Thats what the manual says that came w/ the house anyway. Its the manual for both and my unit has no #'s on it. Home is only 9 years old if that means anything.

I wasnt sure where to measure from but heres what I came up with.

Front w= 29.5 in
Back w= 20in
H=20.25in
Depth is where I wasnt sure from the tile to the back is 20.5in or do I need to go from somewhere else?

 

[tickbitty]

Others will weigh in here but I am thinking you need to look for one that will work with a zero clearance fireplace and will fit in that opening, but your tightest clearance consideration will probably be that wood mantel surrounding the tile opening. Somewhere I think someone listed the clearances for a lot of inserts, I'll see if I can find it. Some inserts will accept tighter clearances if you have mantel shields mounted around the stove too. A lot of folks choose to remove the mantel and put in something else, I worked around mine and found something that would fit.

 

[jadm]

I am by no means an expert but you mentioned that you don't know how long you will be in the house you are in now. I second whoever recommended a freestanding stove on your heart and piped up the chimney because it can be removed and taken with you much more easily than an insert.

i also second getting a bigger stove rather than a smaller one. I learned that lesson the expensive way....

Take a look in the photo gallery here somewhere at all the different hearth set ups. Lots of great ideas.

Also I second the dry wood comment. Around here most long time burners recommend having at least 2 years worth of wood on hand - that has been seasoned at least a year. It does make a difference as I too have found out. Chimney will tell you it is true when you go to clean it.

I used to keep the heat at 64* to keep costs down. I keep it at 55* now and it hardly ever comes on unless I turn it on BUT my house temp. is usually around 75* most of the time during the winter. Actually the front of our house is that temp. Hot air generated from our insert doesn't go down the halls very well but it is no big deal since cooler rooms are all bath and bed rooms that are vacant most of the time during the day...

Good Luck and Enjoy!

 

[soupy1957]

I'd like to chime in here, and support what at least two of the others have said...........considering the fact that you believe that it is likely that you will move to another home, I'd seriously consider a stand alone wood stove. Not that moving an insert is more difficult, because I can't say that for sure. I suppose someone in here may say that it's not hard to remove and re-install an insert..........it's just that I'd think the "insert" would be a bit more involved, to move, and your next home's application may not be exactly the same, dimensionally or in detail.

Also, you'll get heat radiance from a stand alone stove.

-Soupy1957

 

[Delta-T]

thanks for the pics, very helpful. Looking at your dimensions it appears that the rear width is going to be a factor and the elevated face is likely to be a factor. Most inserts protrude from the firebox face to some degree, and you'll likely need to build up the front some to support some units. That 20.5" rear width is a killer. The smallest unit I have access to is 22 3/8" in the rear. I'm not too "keen" on ripping out all the guts and doing a zero clearance retrofit, but you may be able to do it, though the idea of "jury rigging" things that burn wood in your house has always seemed like a bit of a "no, no" to me. The only other thing I can see is that I think every stove requires 16" of hearth protection extending beyond the face of the unit. I cannot tell how much tile you have in the front, but that dimension would be dependent on how far the unit sticks out. I've done zero clearance wood retrofit to pellet insert, but never wood to wood. Maybe someone else here has more insight than myself.

 

[Bocefus78]

OK-after looking through the picture gallery, I see why you say that the lower hearth will be a problem. How would one go about raising this? I am on a slab. I assume raising the hearth is way easier than lowering the firebox???

I did like some of the freestanding stove pictures also....although I wish those pics would have what kind of a stove it is somewhere. Do those freestanding stoves also have blowers?

After looking thru at least 10 pages, I can say that it looks like this will be a multi year project unless this is easier than what I think. I am somewhat handy. Im no engineeer, but I think I could handle doing the work to raise the hearth, enlarge it, or whatever.

Now for some scroungin pics......Heres what Ive been cuttin on lately. Pin oak. Gotta love craigs list! I didn't even have to fall this big old thing. The wind did it for me!
first pic tree is untouched.
second is the WMD's
third is after 4 hours of cutting
More pics to come later-didnt take any last nite as the rain was coming and I still had to load. Its mainly down to the huge stuff now. Still not sure how I am going to get those things on the trailer.

 

[Delta-T]

what do you have behind the unit? is it an exterior wall with a chase for the pipe? interior wall with chase? You can build up the hearth with whatever "non-combustable" material you like (stone,cement,bricks). If you cut and paste some of the pics you like I'm sure someone will chime in to identify them.

If it were me....I might consider pulling that whole thing out of there. Then you could see how much room you really have for a new zero clearance insert, or refinish the wall and put in a free stander, but thats just me. You can get blowers for FS stoves.

I think this could actually be easier than you think, depending on what you'd really like to see happen. If you are emotionally attached to your existing FP face and you insist on making something work with what you have, it might be a challenge. If you are willing to sacrifice that FP and the mantle it might actually be easier than it looks. Getting the right 'look" in refinishing the hearth or modifying the firebox seems to me to be the harder part than designing a proper venting system or actually installing something.

 

[tickbitty]

They will love those tree pics over at the wood shed!

 

[SolarAndWood]

Still not sure how I am going to get those things on the trailer.

Now that is a good problem to have.

 

[Uper]

Just a few thoughts for you. I installed the I1200 in my prefab fireplace last year. I have a Majestic BR36 fireplace which has a gas setup in it. I did the install myself after getting quotes from two dealers ($3500 is within the range I was quoted). I put in about 22' of stainless liner with the stove. I think we have just over $2400 into the unit. Your comfort should be a part of the consideration in factoring costs. I think just based on what you do that you can handle the installation with a little reading and asking questions. I find that the fan is critical for this unit. On high it is a little noisy, but on low it isn't very effective. The firebox really only allows about a 2 hour burntime with decent flame. I have to get up a few times each night if I want to keep a good fire going through the night. It's tough at times, but this unit is really one of the few realistic choices we had. I'm happy we did it and feel I will have my money out of the project by the end of the next burning season. A freestanding stove will give you more radiant heat if you can swing that. If not, the insert is a great fallback. It sounds like the ash will work well for you, but the oak likely won't be ready this season. Welcome to the forum!

 

[the_dude]

I'm also curious to know what is behind this unit - ie exterior chase with pipe? If so, I would serously consider removal of that unit, and replace with a ZC fireplace. I love stoves as much as the next guy, but that looks like the perfect application for a ZC fireplace.

 

[begreen]

If the goal is to stay on budget, start by looking at these inserts. Lopi Revere, Lennox/Country C/A 160, Drolet Escape 1400i, Osburn 1800i, Quadrafire 2700i and check around for pricing.

Some will project into the room and would likely need a hearth modification to make it look good and support the nose, others, like the Quad are close to flush and will need little modification to install.

 

[the_dude]

I only mention the ZC fireplace because at his quote of $3,500 would put him into the same unit I have with pipe (he would have to install himself). The unit I have will heat way better than any insert.

 

[smokinj]

Still not sure how I am going to get those things on the trailer.

Now that is a good problem to have.

I Know How he is going to do it! lol