Fisher Stove Refurbish Advice

[Husky]

Hi there Fisher stove enthusiast. I'm looking for a project and have always wanted to refurbish a Fisher Wood stove. I have always loved the looks of these wood stoves and decided this winter to take on a project. I have been looking over craigslist for the past month and have come across a few stoves that look promising for my project. What should I be looking for and what should send me running. I am going to go and take a look at this one, but wanted some advice before deciding on buying.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/for/5265875913.html
Also what would be a good price for one of these old stoves. Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

 

[ccmac]

Hi there Fisher stove enthusiast. I'm looking for a project and have always wanted to refurbish a Fisher Wood stove. I have always loved the looks of these wood stoves and decided this winter to take on a project. I have been looking over craigslist for the past month and have come across a few stoves that look promising for my project. What should I be looking for and what should send me running. I am going to go and take a look at this one, but wanted some advice before deciding on buying.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/for/5265875913.html
Also what would be a good price for one of these old stoves. Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

Hi there Fisher stove enthusiast. I'm looking for a project and have always wanted to refurbish a Fisher Wood stove. I have always loved the looks of these wood stoves and decided this winter to take on a project. I have been looking over craigslist for the past month and have come across a few stoves that look promising for my project. What should I be looking for and what should send me running. I am going to go and take a look at this one, but wanted some advice before deciding on buying.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/for/5265875913.html
Also what would be a good price for one of these old stoves. Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

$250 is a good price! I would ensure the steel is not warp or burnt thru. Smoke plate, if applicable, is in good condition. Ensure the air inlets are not all loose and worn. Seals and bricks are easily and cheaply replaced so I don't get overly concerned with those items. Others will chime in as well.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Which stove you go for depends on what you want to use it for. For example, you probably don't want a Grandpa Bear in a 20x30 cabin, like the original owners of my house did.

 

[Husky]

Which stove you go for depends on what you want to use it for. For example, you probably don't want a Grandpa Bear in a 20x30 cabin, like the original owners of my house did.

I don't really need a stove but just enjoy rebuilding and having a project. I have never taken on refurbishing a stove and thought this would be a good project for over the winter. I may keep it when I'm done or maybe donate to someone in need.

 

[Husky]

I don't really need a stove but just enjoy rebuilding and having a project. I have never taken on refurbishing a stove and thought this would be a good project for over the winter. I may keep it when I'm done or maybe donate to someone in need.

Just jot some new picture from guy, please take a look and tell me what you think. Thanks.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Nice! Just a smaller version of my Grandpa Bear.

I don't have any gasket in mine, though. Is that a standard item? Or was that added by a later owner?

 

[coaly]

Only glass door Fisher models use door gasket material.
The iron C channel is the door seal. The raised area on door makes contact in the center of seal as well as the channel edge making contact on door. This creates a three contact seal considered air tight as built. When closed, you will notice the door does not make contact with stove face. The gap between door and stove front plate is the thickness of the web (center) of door seal channel iron. Many stove owners never saw a stove that didn't have a door gasket and think it is missing. This was a big selling point for Fisher never needing to replace gasket material. Rarely the hinge pins can wear or the hinge plates can be slightly out of position when installed. If a piece of cardboard in the channel allows door to close, FLAT gasket material can be glued in place. Many times this is harder on the hinge pins and not necessary. It prevents the doors from closing fully, but many claim to get a better seal.
Wire wheeling the channel and door contact area clean is the best way to make them seal.
(The first double door models made in 1976 have a round steel rod for door seal and curved sealing area on doors)

 

[HitzerHillbilly]

I'm only about 30 min from Rochester, been looking for one of these myself for my basement! Let me know if you don't end up with it please!

Wrong Rochester! Lol. Sorry

 

[coaly]

Just jot some new picture from guy, please take a look and tell me what you think. Thanks.

As far as condition, it's typical with no issues.

Here's what it is;
Grandma, probably 1979 due to bent handles and newer plated springs. However it's strange to have the older 4 fin draft caps. Could be the fabricator had lots of the old style to continue to use up.
Notice the width is a little wider than a normal Grandma. This was commonly done by the Dunn Brothers in VA. Could have been a drawing revision made by others, but you can tell by the space at the sides of doors. The angle iron corner material should come up to edge of the Grandma doors. This space was compensated for with the longer hinge plates. I call them "outboard" hinge plates since they are welded above and below the door hinge ears. Doors should set on each hinge plate to support door weight. Notice the top plates are above doors not offering support. They are also welded on the face plate, and not the angle iron corners. (makes it easy to change front legs when they are cut down or need to be lengthened since the hinge plates don't have to be removed to remove legs) I don't know the percentage of stoves built this way, but they are fairly common.
Compare to a Grandma built to the drawings I have from 1977;

Notice very little space at door sides requires hinge plates to be welded to corner iron.

Here are normal hinge plates on the same stove;



The above stove sold for $1100 on eBay. The longer handles should have the tighter wound older stainless springs, and it should have the older 4 fin draft caps in my opinion to get top dollar. (as well as Black Oxide finished feet - these have been painted or were originally chrome) It is always possible the stove was fitted with the newer springs and draft caps before the time the handles were bent, it just looks wrong when you know what you're looking at.

Here's the extra large Grandma like you're looking at refinished;

 

[Husky]

As far as condition, it's typical with no issues.

Here's what it is;
Grandma, probably 1979 due to bent handles and newer plated springs. However it's strange to have the older 4 fin draft caps. Could be the fabricator had lots of the old style to continue to use up.
Notice the width is a little wider than a normal Grandma. This was commonly done by the Dunn Brothers in VA. Could have been a drawing revision made by others, but you can tell by the space at the sides of doors. The angle iron corner material should come up to edge of the Grandma doors. This space was compensated for with the longer hinge plates. I call them "outboard" hinge plates since they are welded above and below the door hinge ears. Doors should set on each hinge plate to support door weight. Notice the top plates are above doors not offering support. They are also welded on the face plate, and not the angle iron corners. (makes it easy to change front legs when they are cut down or need to be lengthened since the hinge plates don't have to be removed to remove legs) I don't know the percentage of stoves built this way, but they are fairly common.
Compare to a Grandma built to the drawings I have from 1977;

View attachment 165036 Notice very little space at door sides requires hinge plates to be welded to corner iron.

Here are normal hinge plates on the same stove;

View attachment 165037

The above stove sold for $1100 on eBay. The longer handles should have the tighter wound older stainless springs, and it should have the older 4 fin draft caps in my opinion to get top dollar. (as well as Black Oxide finished feet - these have been painted or were originally chrome) It is always possible the stove was fitted with the newer springs and draft caps before the time the handles were bent, it just looks wrong when you know what you're looking at.

Here's the extra large Grandma like you're looking at refinished;

View attachment 165038

Thanks for all the info. I did notice the bent style handles where different on many of the stoves I have been looking at but never noticed the 4 fins on the caps or the placement of the hinges. Can you tell me what the bent piece of metal is in top right corner of one of the pictures. Is this normal or a possible problem I should be aware of. At first glance I thought it might be warped metal from over fire.

 

[coaly]

That is the wedge that makes contact with the handle when rotated closed. It is normal. It allows the handle to pull the door tight like a ramp for the latch rod to tighten against instead of the flat stove front. The only thing that goes wrong with the latch is people may over tighten the handle and straighten the 90* bend (behind door) of handle rod. Heating the rod and putting the correct bend back in it tightens it right up. If not right, the angle of the handles will not be the same when closed and latched. The rod is adjustable by bending, not moving the wedge.

This needs adjustment;

 

[coaly]

That is the door latch wedge that the handle rod tightens against.

Bob used a malleable iron pipe cap on the first stoves. He drilled a hole in the center and plug welded a 1/2 bolt in the center.



His father Baxter invented the draft cap as we know it and called it the E-Z Spin. He added cooling fins to be able to use your foot as well. There were 3 fin, and the common patented 4 fin by him. Bob felt his dad was asking too much for a set from the fabricators, and was afraid they would make their own. That did happen to an extent, and Bob later designed the 5 fin cap that became the standard still in use today. Post # 16 in this thread shows different finish and material of draft caps.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-papa-bear-needs-help.118800/#post-1593616

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

The iron C channel is the door seal. The raised area on door makes contact in the center of seal as well as the channel edge making contact on door.

Thanks for that info! I didn't think I needed a gasket. Been getting along fine for 11 years without one. Good to have that confirmed.

One of these days I'll have to post a few pics of my Grandpa and have you tell me the skinny on it.

 

[Husky]

Well I'm going to go take a look at this stove on Monday after work. If it looks as good as the pictures I think I have my project for the winter. I'll let you know what happens. I'd love to have advice on what I should do for a total restore to bring this stove back to as close to original as possible.

 

[coaly]

I see a lot of nice project stoves on Rochester Craigslist. You'll find it goes really fast. I lift the doors off where I pick them up since it make it easier loading. Sometimes you have to remove pins buy soaking with PB Blaster or penetrant of your choice. So I have penetrant, a hammer and punch with me just in case. Since the doors are off, I start with them. Wire wheel doors inside and out, and grease draft cap threads. Wire wheel hinge pins and grease so they drop in by hand. Paint doors and draft caps. With the doors done, it gives me incentive to replace any needed bricks (the worst part) and wire wheel the rest of the stove body. Give it a wipe with mineral spirits as you go and a final wipe with lacquer thinner before paint. When you get the finish the way you want, take it outside and fire it to cure paint. Stove Bright Satin Black is closest to original and good paint that lasts. Don't breath it, best to spray outside.