Fixing an Englander auger motor. How I did it.

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mortimer

Member
Nov 5, 2006
42
This thread will describe how I fixed a broken auger motor. I'm posting here because I couldn't find the answer online.

The stove is the Summers Heat version of the 25 PDVC. I got is at Lowes for half price in 2007 during an end of season sale. Not a refurb. The double wall pipe, etc cost almost as much as the stove.

It worked like a champ until 2012 when I had an oops moment. Dropped, by mistake, a Zinc colored Allen wrench. Didn't try hard enough to find it. I would find it later. It fell into a plastic bucket full of pellets. The bucket seems to attract sawdust. Static electricity maybe. A few weeks later I heard a horrendous grinding noise and the pellets stopped flowing. You guessed it, the upper auger was jammed. It turned out that one of the gears had come off the pole that it spins on. Easy to correct. Fast forward to now. Getting the same issue. Would not stay fixed.

The motor is marked:
GGM CO LTD
BI6125AU1 (part or serial number)
Made in Korea
Rated 0.45A
1.0 RPM CCW

To remove the motor:
1) Disconnect the stove from electricity
2) Disconnect two power leads to the upper motor. It might be a good idea to label the leads. I used a Sharpie.
3) Loosen the set screw that attaches the motor to the auger. In this case a 5/16 or 3/8 12 point socket is best.
4) Scoop/vacuum the pellets out of the hopper. You can use the collar that holds the set screw to rotate the auger. Hard to see with pellets in the way.
5) Set the motor with the working part down.
6) Remove the six #2 Phillips screws.
7) Lift the cover off carefully.

With the cover off you will want to examine the gearing. This motor uses a Worm drive to convert torque 90 degrees. The first gear is made of plastic. Perhaps to avoid killing the motor if it gets jammed. The other four gears are mage of metal.

What I found:
1) The plastic gear was at an angle while still being on the on the pole.
2) The metal gear just before the largest gear was lower than it should have been. The gear had pushed down on the plastic gear.
3) Some fur balls to be removed.

What I did:
1) Clean of the fur balls. No idea how they got into a sealed unit.
2) Used a putty knife to scrape the crud off the lower auger tube. Nice therapy.
3) Found a small thin washer to act as a spacer under the gear that was knocking the plastic gear out of alignment.
4) Converted a small Cottter pin into a retainer for the plastic wheel. This might defeat the 'safety' on the motor. But the motor was dead as it was.
5) Reassembled and reinstalled the motor.
6) Put a handful of pellets into the hopper. A good idea unless you *like* scooping pellets.
7) Plugged the stove in, turned it on.

I am victorious! For now anyway.
 
This thread will describe how I fixed a broken auger motor. I'm posting here because I couldn't find the answer online.

The stove is the Summers Heat version of the 25 PDVC. I got is at Lowes for half price in 2007 during an end of season sale. Not a refurb. The double wall pipe, etc cost almost as much as the stove.

It worked like a champ until 2012 when I had an oops moment. Dropped, by mistake, a Zinc colored Allen wrench. Didn't try hard enough to find it. I would find it later. It fell into a plastic bucket full of pellets. The bucket seems to attract sawdust. Static electricity maybe. A few weeks later I heard a horrendous grinding noise and the pellets stopped flowing. You guessed it, the upper auger was jammed. It turned out that one of the gears had come off the pole that it spins on. Easy to correct. Fast forward to now. Getting the same issue. Would not stay fixed.

The motor is marked:
GGM CO LTD
BI6125AU1 (part or serial number)
Made in Korea
Rated 0.45A
1.0 RPM CCW

To remove the motor:
1) Disconnect the stove from electricity
2) Disconnect two power leads to the upper motor. It might be a good idea to label the leads. I used a Sharpie.
3) Loosen the set screw that attaches the motor to the auger. In this case a 5/16 or 3/8 12 point socket is best.
4) Scoop/vacuum the pellets out of the hopper. You can use the collar that holds the set screw to rotate the auger. Hard to see with pellets in the way.
5) Set the motor with the working part down.
6) Remove the six #2 Phillips screws.
7) Lift the cover off carefully.

With the cover off you will want to examine the gearing. This motor uses a Worm drive to convert torque 90 degrees. The first gear is made of plastic. Perhaps to avoid killing the motor if it gets jammed. The other four gears are mage of metal.

What I found:
1) The plastic gear was at an angle while still being on the on the pole.
2) The metal gear just before the largest gear was lower than it should have been. The gear had pushed down on the plastic gear.
3) Some fur balls to be removed.

What I did:
1) Clean of the fur balls. No idea how they got into a sealed unit.
2) Used a putty knife to scrape the crud off the lower auger tube. Nice therapy.
3) Found a small thin washer to act as a spacer under the gear that was knocking the plastic gear out of alignment.
4) Converted a small Cottter pin into a retainer for the plastic wheel. This might defeat the 'safety' on the motor. But the motor was dead as it was.
5) Reassembled and reinstalled the motor.
6) Put a handful of pellets into the hopper. A good idea unless you *like* scooping pellets.
7) Plugged the stove in, turned it on.

I am victorious! For now anyway.
No pictures, it didn't happen.
Really, it is much easier to follow a narative if there are pictures of what is being described.
 
I suppose.

Two reasons for no pictures:
1) I didn't think of it.
2) Posting pictures online has been really tedious in the past.

I see that you have a PDVC. You feel inspired to take out an auger motor and do some pics? :)
 
I suppose.

Two reasons for no pictures:
1) I didn't think of it.
2) Posting pictures online has been really tedious in the past.

I see that you have a PDVC. You feel inspired to take out an auger motor and do some pics? :)
I have a spare motor, but now isn't a good time to start another project. Getting ready to have the floors refinished.
 
My PDV came with a video that shows how to change every major component in the stove. If you don't have one for yours, you can get one at Englanders web site.
 
Good info and just to expand on it....That motor is the EXACT same motor (GGM) as the Breckwell C-E-017, The USSC (MK) part # 80642. This also is the same EXACT auger motor on the Upland 207 Pellet stove.....just for general infomation
 
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