Flashing #4 on M55

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jumpink

Member
Sep 20, 2010
151
Northern New Jersey
Came home tonight to see the #4 light flashing on the control. Wife said the top of the stove was very hot. I looked it up in the manual and it says:

Light # 4 on Heat output bar flashing.
• Hopper is open, or hopper switch has failed.
• Reset sensor and determine cause. Was it Convection Blower failure or Circuit board control problems?
• The 200 °F (93 °C) high limit temperature sensor has tripped.

She said she opened the lid and a pellet was in the corner, possibly keeping the magnet from sensing the lid closing. I put the stove back on and within 15 minutes the #4 was flashing again. I will call the dealer in the morning, but is there something obvious that I might be able to check tonight? Maybe a blown fuse?
 
Did you reset the switch like the manual says?
Flynfrfun
 
Kevin C said:
Came home tonight to see the #4 light flashing on the control. Wife said the top of the stove was very hot. I looked it up in the manual and it says:

Light # 4 on Heat output bar flashing.
• Hopper is open, or hopper switch has failed.
• Reset sensor and determine cause. Was it Convection Blower failure or Circuit board control problems?
• The 200 °F (93 °C) high limit temperature sensor has tripped.

She said she opened the lid and a pellet was in the corner, possibly keeping the magnet from sensing the lid closing. I put the stove back on and within 15 minutes the #4 was flashing again. I will call the dealer in the morning, but is there something obvious that I might be able to check tonight? Maybe a blown fuse?

When the stove hit the problem after you restarted did the convection fan actually come on?

Was the stove really really hot?

Looking at the hopper switch is it securely mounted and does the lid operate the switch?
 
I am pretty sure the stove will start up and run for a bit. It doesn't look at the sensors for the start sequence. But once it tries to go into run it will look at the sensors. So as flynfrfun said, You need to reset the high limit sensor. Why it triped the high limit? IDK. I leave my hopper open sometimes and mine never tripped the high limit. But mine doesn't have a hopper switch and is a totally different beast. But the control is the same.

Reset the high limit and let us know. No dealer needed with this crew on board! :)
 
I don't have the cast version but the only thing my manual says is
Light # 4 on Heat output bar flashing The 200 °F ( 93 °C) high limit temperature sensor has tripped.
• Reset sensor and determine cause. Was it Convection Blower failure or Circuit board control problems?
Did you reset the snap switch? On mine it is under the top panel in front of the hopper over the convection tubes.
 
j-takeman said:
I am pretty sure the stove will start up and run for a bit. It doesn't look at the sensors for the start sequence. But once it tries to go into run it will look at the sensors. So as flynfrfun said, You need to reset the high limit sensor. Why it triped the high limit? IDK. I leave my hopper open sometimes and mine never tripped the high limit. But mine doesn't have a hopper switch and is a totally different beast. But the control is the same.

Reset the high limit and let us know. No dealer needed with this crew on board! :)

Pay particular attention to the convection fan, if it doesn't step with the heat level setting or stalls she will trip again.

That's weird Jay usually a high temp limit switch when manually resettable will prevent the stove from dropping pellets, strange design to allow possible unsafe operation. Color me saying OMG what were they thinking.
 
I popped open the access cover and pressed the high limit switch and it clicked. I just turned the stove on.
Smokey you say to pay attention to the convection fan. Is that the blower that blows the warm air into the room?
 
Did some digging, When the board saw the open switch it cut the fire on the stove and powered down. Not 100% sure but, It may not have boosted the blowers to high as it wants to go to a safety state. Sounds like the stove was hot and the heat radiated to the high limit and it did as it should.

There should be no ill effects!
 
Kevin C said:
I popped open the access cover and pressed the high limit switch and it clicked. I just turned the stove on.
Smokey you say to pay attention to the convection fan. Is that the blower that blows the warm air into the room?

Yes, if it doesn't step with the heat range or it stalls for any reason the stove will go over temp and shut down.

After a lot of this it is also possible that the control board will have a damaged triac. Also a damaged triac can cause such action from your blower.

That is why they talk about the convection fan and controller being possible causes of an over fire.

A blocked convection blower also leads to such problems.

Must have enough air flowing through the convection system to stop the stove from reaching the magic number, going pop, flashing you, and shutting down.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
j-takeman said:
I am pretty sure the stove will start up and run for a bit. It doesn't look at the sensors for the start sequence. But once it tries to go into run it will look at the sensors. So as flynfrfun said, You need to reset the high limit sensor. Why it triped the high limit? IDK. I leave my hopper open sometimes and mine never tripped the high limit. But mine doesn't have a hopper switch and is a totally different beast. But the control is the same.

Reset the high limit and let us know. No dealer needed with this crew on board! :)

Pay particular attention to the convection fan, if it doesn't step with the heat level setting or stalls she will trip again.

That's weird Jay usually a high temp limit switch when manually resettable will prevent the stove from dropping pellets, strange design to allow possible unsafe operation. Color me saying OMG what were they thinking.

I think its becuase it fires on low to start and they used lots of the program memory for the fuel curves. So they did this to save memory. Its only going to run for aprox 10 minutes and go to what ever error it has and shutdown. Same for the POF switch. Vacuum switch is monitored all the time, So No vacuum No pellets feed. The stove will try to run until the start cycle times out. Then it will flash the error for no vacuum.
 
Jay,
As usual, I believe you are right. Since I reset the switch, the stove has been burning for over an hour now with no problems.
Should I be concerned that the overheating may have cause some damage to the control board?
 
They place the boards in the coolest spots on the stove. I doubt it saw anything hotter than a summers day would bring. So no worries. Just keep an eye on them stray pellets on the hopper lid area. :) Wife gets cold your in hot water then! hehe!
 
Once again the great members of this forum take the time to help out another member in need. Thanks again for all the help.
 
I had the same problem yesterday. Called the dealer & she told me that the M55 was tested with a low BTU pellet & since I am using a high BTU(Bare Foots) that Enviro has made a plate that they will install so it doesn't keep tripping the high heat sensor. Now I am waiting for her to call me back on how to reset the reset button to get the stove back running. They are supposed to install the plate tomorrow. Will let everyone know how I make out.
 
I would be interested to learn more about that plate.
Last night the sensor tripped again. I had a good fire going and started to smell a plastic burning smell, then the sensor tripped.
I called the dealer to have them look at the stove.
 
What heat setting were you guys running when the sensor tripped? I haven't had that happen on my M55 cast insert...yet. But, I mostly leave mine on heat setting 3. I have run it on 5 a few times just to see how hot it gets, but not more than 1hr at a time.
Flynfrfun
 
My heat setting was @ #3, Auger setting #1, & Blower was on #4. It was at night so I really don't know what happened. I had my programmable T-stat set @ 66 for the night. I did notice the back plate right above where the pellets come out is now a dull reddish color, so it must have gotten hot.
 
I had it set at 4. It ran for about 30 minutes then tripped. I noticed the control panel was hot to the touch.
 
Brianm58 said:
My heat setting was @ #3, Auger setting #1, & Blower was on #4. It was at night so I really don't know what happened. I had my programmable T-stat set @ 66 for the night. I did notice the back plate right above where the pellets come out is now a dull reddish color, so it must have gotten hot.

Brian,
Did you mean heat setting 3, with a feed trim of 1 and combustion trim 4? Unless they changed something, this stove doesn't allow adjustments to the blower (convection blower). It is tied to the heat setting.
Flynfrfun
 
Kevin C said:
I would be interested to learn more about that plate.
Last night the sensor tripped again. I had a good fire going and started to smell a plastic burning smell, then the sensor tripped.
I called the dealer to have them look at the stove.

Kevin,

Are you letting the stove float its convection blower speed according to the firing rate?

If so put the fan on high and do not fire the stove at its highest setting.

But as I said earlier watch the fan as if it repeatedly locks up it will eventually toast a control board triac.

Sounds like the "fix" could be better handled by a step up in convection air flow.

For the record my stove will go over temp with very good pellets being burned and the convection fan on auto starting at heat setting 3. That doesn't happen with the fan on high. When I get a bit of tinkering time on a warm day in about February the blower is going to get replaced, the one I plan on installing will require a bit of snorkel building.

I've burned the stove on heat setting #3 for 24 hours or more exactly once.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
Kevin C said:
I would be interested to learn more about that plate.
Last night the sensor tripped again. I had a good fire going and started to smell a plastic burning smell, then the sensor tripped.
I called the dealer to have them look at the stove.

Kevin,

Are you letting the stove float its convection blower speed according to the firing rate?

If so put the fan on high and do not fire the stove at its highest setting.

But as I said earlier watch the fan as if it repeatedly locks up it will eventually toast a control board triac.

Sounds like the "fix" could be better handled by a step up in convection air flow.

For the record my stove will go over temp with very good pellets being burned and the convection fan on auto starting at heat setting 3. That doesn't happen with the fan on high. When I get a bit of tinkering time on a warm day in about February the blower is going to get replaced, the one I plan on installing will require a bit of snorkel building.

I've burned the stove on heat setting #3 for 24 hours or more exactly once.

Sounds like the convection blower is slightly too SMALL or Enviro might want to up the voltage on the higher settings. I bet if you hot wire the blower with a lamp cord she doesn't overheat on 4 anymore. I might expect this with the inserts but the Freestandings should be so much of an issue. Both the M55 and the Omega/ Maxx can be fired all day long on there highest settings. No Problem. The best being the Maxx with its massive 455 CFM blower. I have run my Omega on 5 for more than 3 hours, When I didn't fill the hopper.

The plate they maybe installing does it shield the convection tubes? I'll be that raises the exhaust temps some. Killing the stoves effiency some.
 
I'd agree that the convection blower should put out more air. I think Enviro dropped the voltage to the convection blower to make this stove quiet. They succeeded, but it doesn't push out enough air in my opinion. IMHO the air that comes out on setting 5 should really be how much comes out on setting 3 and 5 should be even more. Yes, it would be noisier, but it is so quiet already, I don't think it would bother anyone, especially since most of us run it on setting 2 or 3. Really, they just need to let us manually adjust the convection blower. Maybe they don't for fear of someone turning it to heat level 5 and then leaving the blower on low which would cause it to overheat. Either way, they need to up the convection blower output.
Flynfrfun
 
Not very happy with dealer right now. Just talked to one of the owners who had an attitude. He tells me the plate is for the free standing only, that the insert already has it. Was told different from his wife yesterday. Now he wants me to empty a full hopper of pellets & take the cover off the auger & move the screw down one. He was vague on what this will do. Attitude! Also, have to reset the button but he tells me it's under the hopper lid. I'm at work so I can't go look but I don't remember any silver plug under the the lid. Then he tells me it's best if he comes out & fixes the problem, but he straight out & give me when he can make it out. In the meantime, it was in the low teens last night & I did't have a stove. Sorry I'm venting. Up till now the dealer was pretty good about service, etc.
 
Brianm58 said:
Not very happy with dealer right now. Just talked to one of the owners who had an attitude. He tells me the plate is for the free standing only, that the insert already has it. Was told different from his wife yesterday. Now he wants me to empty a full hopper of pellets & take the cover off the auger & move the screw down one. He was vague on what this will do. Attitude! Also, have to reset the button but he tells me it's under the hopper lid. I'm at work so I can't go look but I don't remember any silver plug under the the lid. Then he tells me it's best if he comes out & fixes the problem, but he straight out & give me when he can make it out. In the meantime, it was in the low teens last night & I did't have a stove. Sorry I'm venting. Up till now the dealer was pretty good about service, etc.

Moving that screw down one might reduce the area exposed to the pellets in the hopper thus reducing slightly the volume of pellets picked up and sent on the way to the fire pot (reduces the fuel per delivery) and thus the fire and the resultant heat produced at each feed level. It thus acts as a course auger trim. This would provide a better match between the heat produced and the heat extracted at each heat setting. When they balance out the exchanger temperature will stabilize below the high limit trip point(hopefully).
 
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