Flex liner expanded?

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Tocramed

Member
Sep 30, 2015
79
WI
We have an 8" heave flex liner that is insulated and a 6" heave flex run inside of the 8". The installer took care of the cap, so I never saw how it was done at the time. I have been on the roof and looked at closely since the install and have not seen it like this before. It looks like the liner expanded and pushed the cap and plate up. The whole thing is loose, but all the cap parts are securely fastened to the liner.

Can I just push the liner down and secure with concrete screws and caulk?

It doesn't look like it was ever secured to the flue.


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It looks to me like the top clamp is below the top plate which is why it pushed up. It should be able to lift without lifting the top plate.
 
It looks to me like the top clamp is below the top plate which is why it pushed up. It should be able to lift without lifting the top plate.

Is the top clamp you mention the "support clamp" that Woodland references? This is the kit I bought: http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn.../304L-Champion-Heavy-Flex-Chimney-Liner-Kit-6.

Looks like it need to pull it apart, secure the plate to the masonry somehow, and put the top or support clamp above the plate correct? It doesn't look like the storm collar will be able to sit down on the plate with the clamp in between.
 
Is the top clamp you mention the "support clamp" that Woodland references? This is the kit I bought: http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn.../304L-Champion-Heavy-Flex-Chimney-Liner-Kit-6.

Looks like it need to pull it apart, secure the plate to the masonry somehow, and put the top or support clamp above the plate correct? It doesn't look like the storm collar will be able to sit down on the plate with the clamp in between.
No it usually doesnt sit all the way down. I usually cut the ends of the clamp down at an angle and cut the bolts off to get it down pretty close though.
 
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No it usually doesnt sit all the way down. I usually cut the ends of the clamp down at an angle and cut the bolts off to get it down pretty close though.
Awesome, thanks again bholler. I will fix it up tonight.
 
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If you have hand brakes, you can center the plate over the clay tile, and make a mark on underside of all 4 sides, mark another line about 1/4" outside of the first lines, cut the little squares at the corners where the outer lines intersect, then take your hand brakes and make a 90 degree downward bend on all four sides. This will shed any water away. Put some silicone or better yet urethane caulk on the top edge of the clay tile, and set the plate down onto the caulk. I hope you don't find a joint there underneath where the clamp is. No other reason to have a clamp in that spot.
 
If you have hand brakes, you can center the plate over the clay tile, and make a mark on underside of all 4 sides, mark another line about 1/4" outside of the first lines, cut the little squares at the corners where the outer lines intersect, then take your hand brakes and make a 90 degree downward bend on all four sides. This will shed any water away. Put some silicone or better yet urethane caulk on the top edge of the clay tile, and set the plate down onto the caulk. I hope you don't find a joint there underneath where the clamp is. No other reason to have a clamp in that spot.
That clamp would not work to make a joint it is simply a support band
 
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A support band in the wrong spot no less.
Yes it is idiotic no idea why they would have put it there but it would not hold a joint together even if they tried to use it that way
 
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Storm collar needs sealed also. In his case, he's luck it ain't sealed yet.
 
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If you have hand brakes, you can center the plate over the clay tile, and make a mark on underside of all 4 sides, mark another line about 1/4" outside of the first lines, cut the little squares at the corners where the outer lines intersect, then take your hand brakes and make a 90 degree downward bend on all four sides. This will shed any water away. Put some silicone or better yet urethane caulk on the top edge of the clay tile, and set the plate down onto the caulk. I hope you don't find a joint there underneath where the clamp is. No other reason to have a clamp in that spot.


I did watch him cut the liner, so I would be surprised if there was a joint there...then again, I wasn't standing there the whole time and you never know what people are thinking when they do the things they do.

Bending the sides down is a good idea, however, a brake is one thing I don't have. I didn't get around to fixing this last night, so I am going to wait until a buddy of mine and loan me his brake and get it all fixed up.

Thanks guys.
 
A break is best. But a vice will work in a pinch for a one off. Or any squarish edge you could hammer it over against.
 
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A break is best. But a vice will work in a pinch for a one off. Or any squarish edge you could hammer it over against.

Yeah, I think I can make it work without a brake if needed. My larger vise has some pretty gnarly jaws on it. I think they are reversible with a smooth side, but I have to look. ...Or I will just hammer it over. I don't think anyone will be looking that close. It is not all that pretty anyway.
 
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Yeah, I think I can make it work without a brake if needed. My larger vise has some pretty gnarly jaws on it. I think they are reversible with a smooth side, but I have to look. ...Or I will just hammer it over. I don't think anyone will be looking that close. It is not all that pretty anyway.

You can use any length of straight or angle stock steel to make a larger jaw for the vise, and bend each side in one pass. You may want the rough side of the jaws left in, so they grab the plate good and keep it from sliding while bending. You won't see any teeth marks from the ground. Stainless is a lil tougher to bend than aluminum or galv. sheet metal.
The side edge of a 2x4 or such, and a hammer may even work.
If you nip each side on the ends where you want the bend, with a pair of shears, it will help make the crease for the fold.