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Flue Path Design

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Oldredtop, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    First time poster here so be gentle...:)


    I am trying to add a wood burning stove to my walk-out basement as supplemental and emergency backup heat. The basement is unconditioned and mostly unfinished... the walls exposed on the walk-out side are insulated. I am located just east of Atlanta, Georgia, so heating needs are low relative to more northern climates. My goal is to install a passive (non-blower) high efficiency wood burning stove(like the large Kuuma Sauna Stove), so I can heat the basement on an "as needed" basis and allow any excess heat to "drift" upstairs and supplement the heating on the main floor. My house is 5 years old and very well insulated.



    Here is my current situation...
    • I have a Superior BR-42-2 "builder grade" fireplace on the main floor that we do not use or intend to use. I hate the inefficiency and mess of standard wood burning fireplaces…the fireplace has a Chimney Pillow inflated above the damper to seal the 8” metal chimney pipe. I assume it is a single wall metal flue, but cannot confirm at this time.
    • The chase for the fireplace is located inside the house envelope until it penetrates the ceiling into the unconditioned attic space and continues on through the roof.
    • I already asked my wife about removing the fireplace and using the chimney stack from it, but that was a “no-go”.
    • Locating the stove in the area under the fireplace is the ideal spot for heating the basement.
    Here is a quick sketch of what I have now.

    [​IMG]

    I would appreciate any ideas as to the best ways to approach this. I am a bang for the buck value guy, so don’t assume an unlimited budget… ;)

    Thanks in advance.

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  2. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Just so you are aware...your "quick sketch" is a broken link. It is also causing a password prompt to pop up. I would assume to allow access to wherever your pic is stored. Just letting you know.

    And welcome to the forum.
  3. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    Thanks for the heads-up on the image, Jags...seems like every forum handles that a little different and it takes me a post or two to get settled in...;)

    It should be working now...
  4. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep. You got it now.;)
  5. RSNovi

    RSNovi Feeling the Heat

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    I have a Superior BR-42 that I am in the process of researching an insert. My current setup has a double wall 8" that I was going to install a liner. I wonder if your current flue is double wall.
  6. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    Chris,

    It might be a double wall, I can't see any of the outside and not sure what to look for on the inside...:confused:

    Brad
  7. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    One more piece of information is case it helps...the outside dimensions of the chase are 66"x 30" with the flue running up the center.

    Thanks.
  8. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

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    Just be aware that putting a stove in an uninsulated basement does not work well as those walls will soak up most of the heat. Also, getting that heat upstairs seems it would be easy but it is not. To further mixing up the situation, lots of folks have problems with drafting and/or strong downdrafts when burning wood in the basement. Just keep those things in mind.
  9. RSNovi

    RSNovi Feeling the Heat

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    I agree on the basement comment. I have a Jotul 500 in a fully insulated basement and can't get heat upstairs very well. There is usually a 15 degree difference between the basement and the upstairs.
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Are you blowing cool air from upstairs down to the basement?
  11. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    Dennis, so you are indicating that any uninsulated exposed concrete will need to be brought up to temperature first, before the basement area will warm? What causes the downdraft issues you mention? Incorrect chimney design or installation? Wrong stove selection? Improper location of the stove relative to the stairs?



    Chris, are you saying the basement is 15 degrees warmer or colder than upstairs?



    No...I did not plan to. Any heat that migrates up to the main floor would be a bonus. It's not a primary design goal.



    To all...Would using a high efficiency stove (like a Kuuma) help with the previous comments about airflow between the basement and the main floor?


    Thanks for all of the replies...:)
  12. RSNovi

    RSNovi Feeling the Heat

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    If I want my first floor at 70 degrees I need to heat the basement up to around 85 or 90
  13. RSNovi

    RSNovi Feeling the Heat

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    I have tried box fans on both the top and bottom of the basement stairs. I am not able to get a good heat flow. My stairs also have a 90 degree turn.
  14. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    Chris,

    Thanks for the info. 85 to 90 degrees is "toasty"...lol
  15. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    Ok..back to the original questions...any ideas on the best way to run a chimney from a stove in the basement? Is the chase big enough (66" x 30") to safely load it with two flues?

    Thanks.
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    "If" you can take the basement class A pipe up in the chase, alongside the ZC FP and still maintain required clearances, firestop and support requirements, then it seems like it might be possible. Is there an inspection hatch on the outside of the chase?
  17. Oldredtop

    Oldredtop New Member

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    begreen,

    no inspection hatch...that would be too easy... _g I've got a couple of professional installers coming out this week to have a look and do an assessment. Thanks for the responses...you've given me some good data on which to base some questions for them. I'll let you all know how it comes out...

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