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flue through block wall ?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by outcast, Nov 18, 2012.

  1. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    i am thinking, but idk, that i can use stove pipe for my basic small stove install. no combustibles. but it will go outside of the house through a hole in the block foundation. what do i use to finish out the hole after the pipe is in ?

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  2. simple.serf

    simple.serf Feeling the Heat

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    Don't use stove pipe. Other than not being up to most codes (and unsafe), the extreme heat will cause the block to crack and degrade. This happened on the zc fireplace that I scrapped from my house when I bought it. We fixed the cracks and then my installer used a specific section of class A that was designed for the purpose to go through the wall. We filled the hole around the pipe with refractory cement. About 2 inches of this pipe sticks into the room, and my double wall stovepipe connects to it.
  3. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    The biggest concern with an install like you mentioned is the amount of creosote that the pipe will build-up. The flue gases will cool too fast. It's a very unsafe set-up, and will need to be replaced very often due to rust. I just bought some wood from a guy that did this very thing. His insurance company made him get rid of the stove completely..
  4. Snotrocket

    Snotrocket Burning Hunk

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    You can use the stove pipe up until you get to the block, but outside of the house needs to be a Class A chimney.
  5. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    ok fella's, thats what i wanted to know. thanx
  6. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Use a stub of class A pipe to project through the block wall from the outside tee.
  7. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    ok. i was at menards looking at the parts. looks like they have all i need, mostly. the piece that goes through the block wall. is there a way to seal this up air tight when it is cold outside ? it only needs to work for 1 season, as i can "make it right" come summer. also, the outside of the block, it is not flat, it has those decorative bumps and valleys on them. how could i seal this up ?
  8. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    this is where i want my stove pipe to go. i want it to come out of the wall kinda close to the window, and a little below the siding. i want all straight piping. so the tee would had to placed away from the house a little, so it could clear the gutters. how close to the gutters can i put a class a pipe ? and how far above the gutters ? i am thinking 3-4'

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  9. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    oh. i plan to make a support to hold the weight of the pipes. it would set on the ground. this would only be for this season. during the summer i would put a cement slab.
  10. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    the pipe would come out of the block a little right of the window. notice the block finish.

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  11. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Just process thinking here. How large is the window? Have you thought about framing part or all of it for a regular wall thimble connection for the flue exit?
  12. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Merged threads so that we can get the whole picture. Now I see there is a window above this basement window. Still wondering if you could go out the right side of the basement window, but I need a straight on view to see how the windows align. If through the block I'm thinking maybe you could use an angle grinder to flatten the block face around the exterior flashing?

    If they are aluminum gutters the pipe can be almost touching them. The height of the flue above the roof is dictated by the 10-3-2 rule and the minimum requirement for adequate draft.
    10-3-2 rule.JPG
  13. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    yes, i was originally going to put it out that window. and i wouldn't have a problem with that. would i just frame it with regular wood ? i don't think i would have a problem with the pipe going in front of the upper window.

    yeah, i could grind down the blocks. but that would be a real pita. and if/when the day came to remove the pipes, fixing ground down bricks would be a bigger pita.

    yes, aluminum gutters.
  14. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    oh. this would also cause me to need more expensive elbows to make it fit how i want. and putting a hole in the block would not be hard = demolition hammer.
  15. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    this is where i want to put the stove = where the yellow buckets are.
    stove location.JPG
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    What elbows? I think you should post a simple diagram of your plan. I'm not sure I follow it. The pipe should definitely not go in front of the upper window. If so, go through the wall.

    PS: Nice leaded glass window. How tall is the ceiling here?
  17. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    the stove pipe elbows. i don't know how to make a diagram. so picture this = stove, 1' or so of straight, 1 90 elbow aiming at the window, about 4' of straight, a adjustable elbow at about 120deg = so it aims straight at that window, then the pass through piece in a framed out window. on the outside = about 2' past the wall, then the T(that would be supported by my stand that i would make out of steel). then the straight pipe up above the roof, with a stabilizing bracket that would mount to the wall under the soffit.

    i am liking the window idea. i don't care if it goes a little in front of the window. sides, if i don't like it, i will just change it later.

    that window was in the front of the house. i am replacing all the windows in the house. i am hoping i could sell it for something = better than throwing it out.

    6'4" ceilings down there. yeah, i know. but, when looking at houses, i never thought i could afford a house with a basement. so a humble basement like this one is a blessing.

    i was planning on putting a few sheets of drywall on the ceiling above the stove. what are your thoughts on this ?
  18. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    oh. the stove pipe. should i use double wall ? i am thinking that single wall will give me more heat = ?
  19. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    well. menards has the stove i am looking at, on sale. $700+tax $70ish. vogelzang performer. hmmmm.
  20. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    i am rethinking this. if i go through the wall, it will save me $140 for a thimble.
  21. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Sorry, but you are tossing red flags with these ideas. Whether you go out a wall or window there are important safety considerations.

    Exterior chimney must be class A, hi-temp pipe, no exceptions.
    Most stoves require at least a 7' ceiling, check the manual
    Single wall pipe requires 18" clearance from combustibles. Double-wall connector needs 9" from ceiling and 6" from walls. Drywall is considered a combustible.
    You might be able to install a heat shield out of metal or cement board over the stove on 1" spacers to make this work, IF the local inspecting authority approves.
  22. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    yeah, class a from just inside the house, all the way above the roof.

    i didn't consider that. while i think it would be ok with some kind of heat sheild on the ceiling. i am going to get a permit for this. so i will call and ask them.

    ok. i could use a single wall for the first vertical off the stove (for more heat ? or am i wrong on this ?) then double wall the rest to the wall.
    good plan ?

    i thought drywall was a non combustable = learn something new everyday. i could do cement board, though kind of expensive.
  23. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    oh. i would do class a through the wall, as you suggested.
  24. outcast

    outcast New Member

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    ok. i just looked at the PERFORMERS manual. it says 8' ceiling minimum :sad:
    so i looked up the DEFENDERS manual. it doesn't have a ceiling spec. so i think i could use this one.
  25. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    I'd stick with double-wall on the interior connector. Your flue is going to be on the short side and the draft will benefit from keeping the flue interior warmer.

    There are lots of stoves to choose from. How large a space are you trying to heat? If the upstairs is included, how will the heat get up there?

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