Foil faced wrap tears during install..Safety?

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rick clifford

Member
Oct 19, 2012
59
Nothing is easy. When my installer was attempting to drop the liner it was apparent we have to knock out the clay tiles. When he lowered the liner down (not installed) I saw several places where the foil and insulation tore open and the liner was exposed at the bend and once in the center of a 20 foot run. My question is does this happen often and what should be/can be done to correct? When its straightened it closes up but obviously not sealed. Is the is a safety and or a function problem? Should I contact the manufacturer. How to I avoid this as there are naturally going to be bends during install. Thanks
 
You could patch the insulation with foil tape, just try not to compress the insulation very much. But you would have to pull it back up. An opening in the insulation could possibly create a cold spot and creosote would possibly condense on that area. Which might not be too much of a problem if you clean the liner once a year.
It can be frustrating. On a very hot day we pulled mine up from the bottom with a half inch rope. 2/3 of the way up it got stuck. We had to lower it back down and use a strap instead of the rope. Went right up with no problems. I was soaking wet as if I had jumped into the pond.and covered with chimney dust as well. So I just jumped into the pond.
I used the double wall flex liner so the insulation was protected by an outer wall.
 
You could patch the insulation with foil tape, just try not to compress the insulation very much. But you would have to pull it back up. An opening in the insulation could possibly create a cold spot and creosote would possibly condense on that area. Which might not be too much of a problem if you clean the liner once a year.
It can be frustrating. On a very hot day we pulled mine up from the bottom with a half inch rope. 2/3 of the way up it got stuck. We had to lower it back down and use a strap instead of the rope. Went right up with no problems. I was soaking wet as if I had jumped into the pond.and covered with chimney dust as well. So I just jumped into the pond.
I used the double wall flex liner so the insulation was protected by an outer wall.
Well it isn't in yet as I have to break out the clay tiles first and yes its frustrating. I hope it doesn't void the warranty but cant see how anyone would know as if the is a problem (namely a fire) I am sure it would look like crap when pulled afterward. I went with a heavy weight single wall instead of double wall based on all my readings on here. My plan if this ever gets done is to used it as much as possible daily and have the liner cleaned at least once a year. Thanks for your input
 
Insulation voids could become a safety issue, especially with no tile liner. If the insulation is compromised patch it or replace it.
 
When I installed mine the foil back did "break" in a few spots. I taped over them with the foil tape that was provided. Unless you have a 40-60ft boom truck I don't know how you would prevent it. I laid my liner down and glued the insulation per the instructions, installed the mesh sock. It seems that it didn't take muck of a Bend to break the backing though.
 
Does the liner have mesh on it?

Do you have the equipment to break the tiles out? With a 20' flue it's going to be pretty difficult and expensive considering you will likely never need the equipment again.
 
When I installed mine the foil back did "break" in a few spots. I taped over them with the foil tape that was provided. Unless you have a 40-60ft boom truck I don't know how you would prevent it. I laid my liner down and glued the insulation per the instructions, installed the mesh sock. It seems that it didn't take muck of a Bend to break the backing though.
No it didn't take much at all and I felt a bit sick when I saw it. Feel like taping the entire thing. Heard from a guy who puts chicken wire over the mesh sock and tightens it as tight as he can to make it more rigid. Ever hear of that. Seems it may make it harder to bend and get down the chimney. So I guess it helps and all makes it harder.. Don't know but I may try it.
 
Does the liner have mesh on it?

Do you have the equipment to break the tiles out? With a 20' flue it's going to be pretty difficult and expensive considering you will likely never need the equipment again.
Yes it has the mesh but its pretty loose as it can be used with 6 inch to 8 inch liners. And no I don't have the tools but my installer/handyman does if I can get him back here. Rockford C. S. rents them form about $125 of there about.
 
The only consolation I had was just the foil broke. The underlying insulation remained intact.
 
Rockford C. S. rents them form about $125 of there about.
You do realize you really do need to know what you are doing or you could do allot of damage right?
 
What size are the tiles. Consider an ovelized liner? It may still be a cheaper option.
 
Does it make any difference how tight you wrap the insulation blanket?

For example, if it's just a tad bit loose on the liner would that give some room for the blanket to flex independently of the liner and avoid tearing?

Some instructions say to glue the blanket on, others don't mention gluing. Would that make a difference?
 
Does it make any difference how tight you wrap the insulation blanket?

For example, if it's just a tad bit loose on the liner would that give some room for the blanket to flex independently of the liner and avoid tearing?

Some instructions say to glue the blanket on, others don't mention gluing. Would that make a difference?
I think it does make a difference. I just followed the instructions but not gluing (just foil tape) would have probably allowed some give?
 
I did glue it. My installer is coming tomorrow to knock out the tiles. Who ever knocks out the tiles makes me nervous. I already have the round liner so I am going for it. Today I am cutting the Roxal insulation and 1/2 inch durock to size to line the firebox after the liner (hopefully) is in. I am using the tapcon screws as RWhite suggested and wondering if 2 3/4 are ok or 3 1/4 better? I would rather have sheet metal in the rear for added clearance but I cant find any and am running out of time. Big question is if its OK for the insert to rest against the durock in the top rear of the insert. I know I will be compressing the durock some or maybe even a lot but it has to be better than no insulation. Am I correct and more importantly safe? 2 years in preparing for this and cant wait for its completion. Will take photos. LAST question is what should I use to seal the voids around and between the durock. Thank goodness for this site and thank you
 
I think it does make a difference. I just followed the instructions but not gluing (just foil tape) would have probably allowed some give?
I am using Durok as I cant find sheet metal quickly. Do you think 3 1/4 tapcons are ok and they secure to the brick as well as the mortar? Thanks