For those that liked my Chimney cleaning idea Check out my connector box this is better

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elkimmeg

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The problem is linning up a stove lower than the existing chimney outlet, with no space to work an adjustiable angle bend

I did some calculations when figuring this out first about 50% of the two holes line up the area of The box has a larger cross-sectional area than the 26" of a round flue collar Plus there is an angle piece inside to direct th flow up into the rest of the connector opening. Another plus, it can be completely dissesembles in place for cleanning all the screws you see are staniless
steel. It was a former sub feeder electrical pannel Box 12 gage stee. Plenty thick enough to withstand a little heat All connection jpoints had a healthy bead of refactory cement before final assembly. How do you like that solution BTW if anything this chimney has a tendency to have a strong draft, so this box did not slow it down In a way I wish it did
 

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elkimmeg said:
The problem is linning up a stove lower than the existing chimney outlet, with no space to work an adjustiable angle bend

I did some calculations when figuring this out first about 50% of the two holes line up the area of The box has a larger cross-sectional area than the 26" of a round flue collar Plus there is an angle piece inside to direct th flow up into the rest of the connector opening. Another plus, it can be completely dissesembles in place for cleanning all the screws you see are staniless
steel. It was a former sub feeder electrical pannel Box 12 gage stee. Plenty thick enough to withstand a little heat All connection jpoints had a healthy bead of refactory cement before final assembly. How do you like that solution BTW if anything this chimney has a tendency to have a strong draft, so this box did not slow it down In a way I wish it did

Does that pass code? :) Actually, I have a similar situation in my insert install, but ended up using and just making it with an adustable angle bend stove pipe. I don't really like the adjustable angle bend pipe, and wish I had something like this. If you look at the Lopi Revere site and look at the accessories, they sell a gadget that looks like this for just this purpose. No idea if it's specific for that stove since it's a drawing, but same idea.
 
Please take this lightheatedly, that is how I mean it, but I for one am shocked!

For years I have pictured you as a pillar of all that is good and righteous on the hearthnet forums. Always the first to say "read the maual"..."what does the manual say"..."is that carpet 18 inches away from the stove"..."is that liner sealed at the top, bottom and two places in the middle". Now we come to find out that ol' elkimmeg has an electrical fuse box slobbered up with caulking as part of the flue?!? That is a real piece of work!

I read this post as work, and only now had time to post. Had a bad dream as I was on the way home. Headed out to the hardware store to buy some supplies for the house and everything had a bright orange sticker "NOT TO BE USED AS A STOVE FLUE". Actually, looking back...it was more of a nightmare...all those little stickers everywhere.

Sometimes, the best humor is reading warning labels when you know the only reason they have that crazy label is because someone probably did it once already.

I guess in the end, all I can say is if it works for you, welcome to the club...home design engineer.

Corey
 
Speaking of the bright orange sticker, you ever notice on those car reflectors you can unfold and put in your windshield to protect the interior from the suns rays and keep it cooler they say "REMOVE BEFORE DRIVING". Made me wonder, did someone stick one in their windshield and start driving around not knowing it was to be removed?
 
The wall is floor to ceiling 12' total of real fieldstone, I picked off my lot and assembled Everything in the background that made it into the picture is 6' away. Beyond the opposite side of the stove is a full fledge fire place then a wood box, then what you see in the background. The hearth is set on the concerte slab 4' extended from the field stone. Since this box is part of the connector system. code requires 24 gage and connector pipe is also unlisted. The vollume transfere area is larger than any cross-section requiremnet The gage is twice as thick as required., 12 gage. 22 gage pipe was used cvonnector pipe for the fittings. The crimped end goes in the collar. Inside the box I cut 1" slits bent them back at 90 degrees and machine screwed ever other tab Refactory cenent was applied inside under the tabs and again outside. I did not really need it outside, but doubled up my effort. There is smoke bafflet to direct the flow in the box as well. Your just jelous because I can clean every thing without moving the stove. If all goes well This box will be taken out of service soon. I picked up an VC Defiant Encore that sits 2" taller. 1998 used sparingly for only two heating seasons
No chips in the pleasing Hunter green enamal. More heat, larger fire box, larger logs longer burn times, and cleaner than My Resolute Acclaim. My chimney drafts so well I have no problem, in fact I want the cat stove. My other VC Intrepid cat preforms beyond expectation. I was told stay away from the cat stoves they are problematic Replacement is costly and hard Hell I may just dissesemble this Encore and rebuild it just like I did with the Intrepid. The cat does even the heat out burns lomger less smoke ans ash. As I said I do not have a weak draft I have the ideal setup I also need the additional 18% more heat as I work the Resolute.

Speaking of which I might give it a way to a needy familly. Whoever they are they will be receiving a damn good stove.

Inspections Who needs those damn inspections anyways
 
Elk,
That box looks like it could hold a coil of 3/8 OD copper pipe. If you plum that in with a self closing valve you would have an instance hot tap for tea, soup, hot coco, and water to fill a humidifier.
Very handy to have,
I think if your going to design, it should function.
 
The box has seen 2.5 seasons at least 7 cords and inside is a fine powder, no flaky Cresote.
I put t thremo on it reads between 300 to 400 when the stove is 500 to 550. The other day, I
had in my hands, that adjustiable conversion box used for tight quarters inserts connections.
I had heard about them but never saw one, They suprised me how flimsey they were and expensive
$135. Actually I was going to weld up transition pipe I had some 18 gage stock here but I got this
Box idea and used it to compensate for the 2 5/8" height difference. I actually used two plumbing
inflatiable plugs and pressurized it to 60 lbs. I would have gone for more but the plugs kept blowing out.
Even at 60 lbs no leaks, that's a hell of a lot more pressure than any connector pipe experiences.

If all goes well I get the VC Encore which is 2" heigher, I will be taking the conversion box out of service.
I would love to try a Joutul Oslo but the picture tells the story I an very limited with my current chimney
connector outlet. I own the drills and Hilti chipping hammers, but cutting threw granite field stone and
a total of 16" of masonry could prove to be quite a chore even if I were 21 again. If any knows of a Jotul
used for 2 to seasons less than 8years old I can get for $350 and the top of the vent pipe can be no
more than 28" in southern New England I am there. I can be a fan of another manufacturer, but It has
to connect into my existing inlet
 
Congrats on the Defiant thats a good stove. I finally got rid of our last one off the floor this year (green one it's a discontinued color) I basically tried giving it away last year, couldn't do it though. No problem getting rid of it this year though. I think catalytic stoves are perfect for someone who knows how to run and maintain them. I wish VC would up their warranty. Match the standard 5year 2year electrical that would be great.
 
Elk,

Just a question on the connector box. Code requires a 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal connector pipe so that water vapor can fall back into the stove. With the box, which I know people do use exactly like you, how does it satisfy code? I would think the water would pool in the bottom of the box instead. Just wondering.
 
If water pooled at 400 degrees not for long. There is a bafflet to direct the smoke up plus 50% or more the hole lines up.
The current draft is strong.. I would actually check it, but my meter got lost somewhere between Ma and PA. trying to help
lime4x4. Too bad because it cost over $100 to replace. IT is the size of a jewlery box. I think that is why it dissapeared. I used a stick on return addres sticker and wrapped it in a brown super market bag. I should have know better and paid extra for insurance and delivery confirmation. Tommorrow will be the third week since I mailed it, Bummer its my fault for not protecting my investment
 
Yeah I think you are out 1 draft meter. Have you contacted your local postmaster? Isn't there some dead mail office somewhere? If someone didn't take it, then it is sitting in a pile with a billion other packages.
 
Hope this isn't adding insult to injury but what happened with your meter is probably why UPS won't accept packages wrapped in paper. At least here they don't. Their logic is that the paper can and does get ripped off in one of the machines somewhere, the label is gone and they have no idea what to do with it. I have used a paper label and taped it but the entire thing has to be covered with tape to secure it to the package. I know that doesn't help you now but maybe next time. Hope it shows up.
 
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