Fragged by a splitting wedge.....

[Wade A.]

On the subject of steel, hammer driver wedges: About 30 years ago I collected a piece of one in my right lower leg. Came off like a bullet from a gun, cut right through my jeans like a razor. I could clearly see where the piece came off of the wedge. I looked on the opposite side of my pants and saw no exit hole, and I couldn't decide if that was good, or bad. Shook my pant leg and nothing came out. Went to the house and got the metal detector and scored a "hit." Hmmmm. Took a general anesthetic and a surgeon to put me right. Needless to say, I've been pretty attentive to the potential danger ever since.

So, don't think it won't happen to you, and I won't think it won't happen to me again. I'm not seen splitting without eye pro ever since, and as many layers of clothing as the weather allows.

Question though: I generally grind those "mushroomed" heads on a low speed wheel, and it gets pretty tedious. I'm wondering if the brand of wedge I have is more prone to that than others. But, I really can't remember what brand they are....probably a "big box" brand from about 15 years ago, I'm thinking. Does anyone have any opinions on this subject, preferred brands of wedges, techniques for grinding, or anything other wisdom they can impart? Thanks.

 

[firefighterjake]

My memory is pretty poor . . . but I think I recall last year a guy from Maine dying or at least being seriously injured from a splitting injury when a steel wedge fractured and ended up knicking an artery.

 

[Wade A.]

Yep, occupational hazard for the Luddites amongst us. I split by hand because I enjoy the exercise...at 53, I find that anything that is that hard is probably going to be good in the long run.....if there IS a long run! I'm hell at the state fair midway too. (Ring the bell? Sure. One arm or two?)

I could have been inured a lot more seriously, no doubt. A few inches up and it would have gone into my knee, and there is no telling how much derangement I would have had to deal with. As it was, it took them five days to get the surgery scheduled, and you talk about a throbbing! Never did bleed much, thankfully.

 

[billb3]

I guess I should be glad I only get hit in the ankle by the whole wedge.
Only happens when I decide not to bother putting on my taller boots.

 

[peterc38]

My memory is pretty poor . . . but I think I recall last year a guy from Maine dying or at least being seriously injured from a splitting injury when a steel wedge fractured and ended up knicking an artery.

Your memory is correct:

http://www.bangordailynews.com/stor...o-man-killed-in-wood-splitting-accident,51314

 

[Wade A.]

Boy, that could have been me, for sure. Just confirms that there are about a million ways to bite it in this life, most of which we've not even seen yet.

 

[firefighterjake]

My memory is pretty poor . . . but I think I recall last year a guy from Maine dying or at least being seriously injured from a splitting injury when a steel wedge fractured and ended up knicking an artery.

Your memory is correct:

http://www.bangordailynews.com/stor...o-man-killed-in-wood-splitting-accident,51314

Well I guess I'm happy my memory is intact . . . but still sad to be reminded of such a tragedy.

 

[Dune]

Ploughboy, what do you mean by low speed wheel? A pedal grinder, hand grinder, knife sharpener?

Brand of wedge shouldn't matter too much. The struck end of the wedge "should" be soft, from the factory. Problem is, having been struck hard and often enough, it will become hard, some from work hardening, and some from packing. Some people will tell you you can't pack steel with a hand hammer, just means they didn't try for long enough. The trick to preventing mushrooming is to generously bevel the struck end. Don't just clean up the excess, grind a nice 45 degree bevel so the bevel itself is a good 1/4" wide. It may seem like you are wasting steel, you are not. When the bevel is gone, grind again, before mushrooming starts. This is why you are saving steel, not wasting it. Might I suggest a 4 1/2" or 5" hand grinder, to speed things up a bit?

 

[JustWood]

Eye'm thinkin' $999 is lookin' pretty cheap 4 a hydro-split!
Mmmmmmmm Hmmmmmmmmm!

 

[Bigg_Redd]

On the subject of steel, hammer driver wedges: About 30 years ago I collected a piece of one in my right lower leg. Came off like a bullet from a gun, cut right through my jeans like a razor. I could clearly see where the piece came off of the wedge. I looked on the opposite side of my pants and saw no exit hole, and I couldn't decide if that was good, or bad. Shook my pant leg and nothing came out. Went to the house and got the metal detector and scored a "hit." Hmmmm. Took a general anesthetic and a surgeon to put me right. Needless to say, I've been pretty attentive to the potential danger ever since.

So, don't think it won't happen to you, and I won't think it won't happen to me again. I'm not seen splitting without eye pro ever since, and as many layers of clothing as the weather allows.

Question though: I generally grind those "mushroomed" heads on a low speed wheel, and it gets pretty tedious. I'm wondering if the brand of wedge I have is more prone to that than others. But, I really can't remember what brand they are....probably a "big box" brand from about 15 years ago, I'm thinking. Does anyone have any opinions on this subject, preferred brands of wedges, techniques for grinding, or anything other wisdom they can impart? Thanks.

Too late.

Since I don't use sledges and wedges I already think that.

 

[fire_man]

Ploughboy:

I posted a similar incident a couple years ago. A splinter from a mushroomed wedge got me in the leg. It thankfully was not a big deal,must have been a small vein or artery but the massive blood that spurted out scared the dickens out of me. I am now respectful wheh my wedges get that shrapnel look to them. I can definitely see how if things went just wrong it could be deadly or at least very serious. I now mostly use the 27T Hydraulic Splitter, which has it's own safety issues but honestly I think if you keep your wits about you its safer than the wedge. Glad you were Ok in the end - watch that shrapnel!

 

[dave11]

One thing to keep in mind--if you use a grinder to remove parts of the wedge, and subsequently heat up the metal to a significant degree, you might be making the wedge more brittle and prone to splinter. It's the same reason that torches should not be used to loosen steering or suspension components of vehicles, unless you plan to replace the parts that were heated.

I've heard it argued that steel wedges with deformed heads should be thrown away.

 

[louieva]

Sorry to hear about your accident.

If you can't afford a hydraulic splitter, perhaps get a maul or splitter axe like the Fiskars? It always seemed like using the sledge + wedge had a potential for steel shards. I didn't realize how much though until your post.

I've thought about wearing some chaps or shin guards too while splitting...

Celox seems like a good thing to have on hand too in case you do get something that requires quick cut stoppage.

 

[Kenster]

I used to use one of those cone shaped "Torpedo" wedges when I was splitting with a sledge hammer. It was starting to mushroom but I kept using it. One day I whacked it just right and before I knew what happened I was on the ground. I caught that wedge squarely on the knee cap. Thought I was gonna die, at least be crippled with a crushed knee cap. After a minute or so I managed to get back on my feet and walk it off. I did quit for the day and went to the house for a cold beer. Wasn't too long after that that I ordered my Fisker's SS. I think that wedge is still out in my woods somewhere.

 

[OhioBurner©]

I never had any wedges yet... always thinking I should pick some up... maybe now I'll not worry about it. About what Louie said though, even with the Fiskars you hear a lot of close calls & even trips to the ER from forum members, so be carefull there too.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I have a wedge, but never use it. Once I learned to split well with the Monster Maul or Fiskars a wedge just seems so slow and tedious. Of course accidents can happen with any equipment, so be careful. I just don't get the need for wedges, if I cannot split it by hand, I don't want the wood. Which was about 4 rounds out of 20 cords. I tend to leave the ugly Ys in the woods.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

On the subject of steel, hammer driver wedges: About 30 years ago I collected a piece of one in my right lower leg. Came off like a bullet from a gun, cut right through my jeans like a razor. I could clearly see where the piece came off of the wedge. I looked on the opposite side of my pants and saw no exit hole, and I couldn't decide if that was good, or bad. Shook my pant leg and nothing came out. Went to the house and got the metal detector and scored a "hit." Hmmmm. Took a general anesthetic and a surgeon to put me right. Needless to say, I've been pretty attentive to the potential danger ever since.

So, don't think it won't happen to you, and I won't think it won't happen to me again. I'm not seen splitting without eye pro ever since, and as many layers of clothing as the weather allows.

Question though: I generally grind those "mushroomed" heads on a low speed wheel, and it gets pretty tedious. I'm wondering if the brand of wedge I have is more prone to that than others. But, I really can't remember what brand they are....probably a "big box" brand from about 15 years ago, I'm thinking. Does anyone have any opinions on this subject, preferred brands of wedges, techniques for grinding, or anything other wisdom they can impart? Thanks.

Air hammer "steels" need to be reforged & then tempered "blue", no grinding of the point. A wedge is not that much different except reforging an end is not too practical. My advice would be to keep the wedges hammer end ground to the proper shape & if you have an oxy/act torch with a big cutting or heating tip heat the end till it turns blue & quench in oil, this will keep it from being brittle. I personally would not buy a China wedge because of possible metal/heat treat problems. I believe Collins & Estwing etc make nice wedges, Randy

 

[SteveKG]

Last year, I bought a Fiskars Super Splitter and gave up on wedges and mauls. I still have them, haven't needed them since I got the new Fiskars.

Any wood too stringy or knot-ridden to get thru with the Fiskars I simply cut thru with a chainsaw ["noodles", cut with the grain] then split. Don't know why I didn't think of it years ago, my arm joints would be in better shape.

However, this Fiskars is one sharp son of a gun. The handle is a bit shorter than on my double-bit axe. Couple times, I've had it glance off a piece of wood or cut through one unexpectedly easily and had my leg been in the way, I would be in some serious trouble. I believe it was on one of the chainsaw forums that someone posted how he'd done just that, luckily only cut and no bone damage.

Gotta be careful no matter what you do. I don't have a hydraulic or electrical splitter, only hand tools, but I imagine careless use could cause a bad day using them as well. Heck, once I had a large round drop off my stack of wood, run down my shin, smash into my foot. No lasting damage, but it hurt like heck. I never did figure out why I'd put the round up shoulder height instead of splitting at least in half first. I don't do that any more.

 

[fjord]

Ploughboy, what do you mean by low speed wheel? A pedal grinder, hand grinder, knife sharpener?

Brand of wedge shouldn't matter too much. The struck end of the wedge "should" be soft, from the factory. Problem is, having been struck hard and often enough, it will become hard, some from work hardening, and some from packing. Some people will tell you you can't pack steel with a hand hammer, just means they didn't try for long enough. The trick to preventing mushrooming is to generously bevel the struck end. Don't just clean up the excess, grind a nice 45 degree bevel so the bevel itself is a good 1/4" wide. It may seem like you are wasting steel, you are not. When the bevel is gone, grind again, before mushrooming starts. This is why you are saving steel, not wasting it. Might I suggest a 4 1/2" or 5" hand grinder, to speed things up a bit?

Right on, good advice.

Be gentle with grinding to not overheat the steel--stop, go around the wedge sides before each gets too hot. Take your time.
While the Fiskars SS will do much of the wood, some will need the bashing of sledge and wedge. Great for stress.

 

[richg]

Eye'm thinkin' $999 is lookin' pretty cheap 4 a hydro-split!
Mmmmmmmm Hmmmmmmmmm!

Lee:

I was just thinking the same thing the other day after my Fiskas bounced off a hickory round and nicked my left calf. It didn't even require a band-aid, but one inch to the left and I would have been in trouble.

 

[nojo]

My advice would be to keep the wedges hammer end ground to the proper shape

Good advice!!

if you have an oxy/act torch with a big cutting or heating tip heat the end till it turns blue & quench in oil, this will keep it from being brittle.

This very bad advice.

Quenching (in oil/water, even air) is not tempering, that is hardening. The faster you cool metal the more its molecular structure aligns to form a more brittle state. You could defiantly cause it to be more brittle by quenching. You want the striking end of a tool to be soft. But this being a wedge, it shouldnt matter if the whole thing is soft. I make tools. I am a blacksmith by trade.

Avoid any cast products. Cast wedges will be very brittle. Drop forged as most are is good, but keep the striking end cleaned up and well rounded off as others have suggested. No hard edges.

If you really want to soften the working end of your tool, heat it up until it is non magnetic, then promptly bury it in a bucket of ash and leave it overnight. This is called 'annealing' and WILL soften the steel. Its a controlled step down in temperature.

 

[LLigetfa]

I saw a guy take some metal in the willie pounding on a wedge.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

My advice would be to keep the wedges hammer end ground to the proper shape

Good advice!!

if you have an oxy/act torch with a big cutting or heating tip heat the end till it turns blue & quench in oil, this will keep it from being brittle.

This very bad advice.

Quenching (in oil/water, even air) is not tempering, that is hardening. The faster you cool metal the more its molecular structure aligns to form a more brittle state. You could defiantly cause it to be more brittle by quenching. You want the striking end of a tool to be soft. But this being a wedge, it shouldnt matter if the whole thing is soft. I make tools. I am a blacksmith by trade.

Avoid any cast products. Cast wedges will be very brittle. Drop forged as most are is good, but keep the striking end cleaned up and well rounded off as others have suggested. No hard edges.

If you really want to soften the working end of your tool, heat it up until it is non magnetic, then promptly bury it in a bucket of ash and leave it overnight. This is called 'annealing' and WILL soften the steel. Its a controlled step down in temperature.

If you have done much heat treating you understand that heating till blue will not harden, you must bring it past a red heat to harden. This is Hearth & I tried to simplify this heat treating. The proper way would be to harden first & then draw hardness to a blue temper. This is something I doubt most members would do. If you want to do a real good & fast anneal you heat the steel in a dark room till it gets to a salmon color & then quench in water while stirring. This will soften the steel better than a full anneal in a furnace that is allowed to cool slowly over 24 hours & the bucket of ash. Randy

 

[nojo]

If you want to do a real good & fast anneal you heat the steel in a dark room till it gets to a salmon color & then quench in water while stirring. This will soften the steel better than a full anneal in a furnace that is allowed to cool slowly over 24 hours & the bucket of ash. Randy

Randy Im nearly positive that's incorrect. While Im pretty sure that the quenching wont harden at that heat (and most defintly wont soften it), what your doing is removing the hardness by tempering the steel slightly with heat. The only problem is with a piece the size of this you will only be removing the hardness of the surface steel. I doubt those tool are hardened much in the first place though.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

If you want to do a real good & fast anneal you heat the steel in a dark room till it gets to a salmon color & then quench in water while stirring. This will soften the steel better than a full anneal in a furnace that is allowed to cool slowly over 24 hours & the bucket of ash. Randy

Randy Im nearly positive that's incorrect. While Im pretty sure that the quenching wont harden at that heat (and most defintly wont soften it), what your doing is removing the hardness by tempering the steel slightly with heat. The only problem is with a piece the size of this you will only be removing the hardness of the surface steel. I doubt those tool are hardened much in the first place though.

That sounds right, it takes good tool steel to get a decent heat treat. At $10.00 for wedge a person would be lucky if they were 1050. As you say I was just trying to help get the surface softer as these could work harden over time. Randy