Free wood/lots of it/what should I get?

[nola mike]

Finally found a score for free wood (I think). Coworker says she has "a ton" of trees on her land, many of which have been down about 6 mos or so. I can go and take what I want. Not sure exactly what she has, but says that she knows of cedar, poplar, and walnut (and pine). What should be my preference? I guess I want:
1. BTUs
2. Ease of splitting
3. Time to season--I could still use stuff to burn this year. Not too optimistic about that, but I'd definitely like some dry stuff for next year.

Any other species I should look for that would be better?

 

[Wood Duck]

I'd start with Walnut, then pine, then cedar, then poplar. Most other trees (oak, hickory, maple, etc.) would be about as good as or better than the species you listed Avoid willow and you'll be fine.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Start with the safest wood to get and work your way back. Is this wood in a spot where you can bring in a splitter and split on site? If so, you could get a lot of wood fast and not spend a lot of energy moving it around.

Matt

 

[mywaynow]

I would take the Walut and then run. I have both Pine and Cedar just rotting on my own property. Matter of fact, this past summer I took down likely the largest White Pine in the Township, only to cut it to movable size pieces and drop them in the back of my property to rot. Just look at your saw after cutting Pine. It is covered in sap, as will be your pants, gloves etc. That stuff will be all inside the stovepipe if you burn it. IMHO I used the cedar tree for a campsite bench too. That may burn ok. It does not have the same sap content. Smells nice when cutting too.





o

 

[Stump_Branch]

depends on how much you need. might as well think years ahead so whats the harm in just going though and getting the best wood you can?
walnut would be my tops, but you might as well snatch and run with as much as you can. it will all burn, some wood is just nicer to have than others.
poplar is light so, easy to carry....

 

[gzecc]

I would also only take the walnut. I would take the straight cedar. Cut it small and use it for fire starters. It smells nice too. 90% walnut 10% cedar.

 

[Wood Duck]

Just look at your saw after cutting Pine. It is covered in sap, as will be your pants, gloves etc. That stuff will be all inside the stovepipe if you burn it.

Not true. Pine sap is part water and part flammable. Season the pine (remove most of the water) and the sap burns up in the stove. Seasoned pine shouldn't create any more creosote in the chimney than hardwood. I'd take walnut first, but pine is perfectly good firewood. I guess in Virginia you probably have something other than White Pine - Virginia Pine, Loblolly Pine, maybe Pitch Pine. I like the other pines more than White Pine, but any of them is fine.

Fresh pines, especially White Pine, will get sap all over your saw, but these trees at six months old should be less sappy than fresh ones.

 

[peakbagger]

A reminder is whatever you do, dont leave the lot worse than when you started. Ask your coworker if there are nay particular areas that she would like cut. It doesnt take thant long to cut some wood into managable lengths and pile it up in the woods even if you dont particulary want the speces of wood. A bit of extra work up front will get you invited back again, if you make a mess the invitation could go away.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I would take the Walut and then run. I have both Pine and Cedar just rotting on my own property. Matter of fact, this past summer I took down likely the largest White Pine in the Township, only to cut it to movable size pieces and drop them in the back of my property to rot. Just look at your saw after cutting Pine. It is covered in sap, as will be your pants, gloves etc. That stuff will be all inside the stovepipe if you burn it.
o

I agree that walnut is the best listed, but disagree STRONGLY with the rest. About 1/3 of what I burn is pine and I sweep once a year- but could go 2 years.

Dry it well, burn it right, never a problem.

All that said- survey the property. Take Walnut first if it's easy to get. If not- work your way toward it. It all burns.

 

[dave11]

Not that the other types of wood are not better, but I myself wouldn't pass up the poplar. I dropped a few on my property, and split/stacked it got bone dry within one year, and lights fast, and burns hot in my stove with the primary air fully closed. Easy to split, too.

I think a lot of these varying opinions about types of wood are due to the differences among stoves.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

dave- people burn pine and cedar with no issues in the Northwest, Canada etc and have forever with the same stoves we have here. In fact they have very little hardwood in those areas at all. I would guess that here people would feel this light wood and assume it's dry and end up with issues. Dry it 9 months to a year and it's fine, though burns quickly.

 

[firefighterjake]

Burn it all . . . it's all good . . . but if space is limited start with the walnut first.

 

[Mike821]

Just a thougt....Look at the walnut and determine if you have some strait sections like 10'+ on the main part of the tree. Do some research and see if a local sawmill would like the section and how much they will pay for this wood. You can discuss with the owner that you found a sawmill that would purchase the section for XXXX dollars. Helping her out with some $$$ can secure your wood supply and even get you a place to season your CSS wood.

Either way the walnut is king as far as your list goes.

Enjoy,
Mike

 

[smokinj]

Placement of wood is what your going to take first! I want my trailer and splitter almost on top of the wood! Clear your way to the next one and so on! Guy on the splitter can split and hit the truck or trailer by him or herself. Leaves the saw guy to get the rounds to the splitter and If there's extra people break down each job even more. The lye of the ground saws (and equipment) people will dictated what your going to do. Sunday we will have 2 trucks and trailers 5 saws all accessories for them splitter all accessories and 5 guys. STill coming down to tree placement.

 

[tfdchief]

Just look at your saw after cutting Pine. It is covered in sap, as will be your pants, gloves etc. That stuff will be all inside the stovepipe if you burn it.

Not true. Pine sap is part water and part flammable. Season the pine (remove most of the water) and the sap burns up in the stove. Seasoned pine shouldn't create any more creosote in the chimney than hardwood. I'd take walnut first, but pine is perfectly good firewood. I guess in Virginia you probably have something other than White Pine - Virginia Pine, Loblolly Pine, maybe Pitch Pine. I like the other pines more than White Pine, but any of them is fine.

Fresh pines, especially White Pine, will get sap all over your saw, but these trees at six months old should be less sappy than fresh ones.

Osage Orange (Hedge) is one of the messyest, sticky sap tree there is when cut green. Haven't seen any correlation between that and fauling the stove pipe or chimney.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I would not get excited at all until I went to see what is there. Then make some decisions.

 

[Stump_Branch]

Backwoods. good advice for me, i found a nice wood score was all sorts of hyped, couldnt sleep. got there and its mostly white oak. I about wet my pants.

Hey Sun King! congrats, not quite sure how many more levels there can possibly be.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Mostly white oak would be fantastic!

 

[Stump_Branch]

Well there was some cherry, I think a locust, and Pin Oak. I have been working on getting the white out first. I feel bad as they are all nice mature mostly healthy (some starting rot/ants) trees. but its a inner city church, they dont cut, burn or anything. I figure I might as well be the one who ends up with the wood then someone else. Problem has been hauling it back out to my rural area. dont worry its under 50 miles

 

[smokinj]

Well there was some cherry, I think a locust, and Pin Oak. I have been working on getting the white out first. I feel bad as they are all nice mature mostly healthy (some starting rot/ants) trees. but its a inner city church, they dont cut, burn or anything. I figure I might as well be the one who ends up with the wood then someone else. Problem has been hauling it back out to my rural area. dont worry its under 50 miles

Tralier's will more than double your load!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Stump, just make sure the Devil is not out there amongst those trees! If so, don't take him home with you on one of those loads.

 

[Jutt77]

Finally found a score for free wood (I think). Coworker says she has "a ton" of trees on her land, many of which have been down about 6 mos or so. I can go and take what I want. Not sure exactly what she has, but says that she knows of cedar, poplar, and walnut (and pine). What should be my preference? I guess I want:
1. BTUs
2. Ease of splitting
3. Time to season--I could still use stuff to burn this year. Not too optimistic about that, but I'd definitely like some dry stuff for next year.

Any other species I should look for that would be better?

If the walnut is straight and depending on the size, you may want to consider processing and selling it as lumber or selling it in bulk to a mill? I just recently cut down a couple of black walnut trees at a friends house and used them for firewood of course and a guy I work with that builds furniture as a hobby was telling me walnut is really expensive and that I should have sold it. Other folks could probably chime in on this.

 

[Jutt77]

I would take the Walut and then run. I have both Pine and Cedar just rotting on my own property. Matter of fact, this past summer I took down likely the largest White Pine in the Township, only to cut it to movable size pieces and drop them in the back of my property to rot. Just look at your saw after cutting Pine. It is covered in sap, as will be your pants, gloves etc. That stuff will be all inside the stovepipe if you burn it.
o

I agree that walnut is the best listed, but disagree STRONGLY with the rest. About 1/3 of what I burn is pine and I sweep once a year- but could go 2 years.

Dry it well, burn it right, never a problem.

All that said- survey the property. Take Walnut first if it's easy to get. If not- work your way toward it. It all burns.

+1...95% of what I burn is pine because thats about all that grows out here. Lots of other Colorado wood burners would agree. Just has to be seasoned.

 

[Stump_Branch]

Well there was some cherry, I think a locust, and Pin Oak. I have been working on getting the white out first. I feel bad as they are all nice mature mostly healthy (some starting rot/ants) trees. but its a inner city church, they dont cut, burn or anything. I figure I might as well be the one who ends up with the wood then someone else. Problem has been hauling it back out to my rural area. dont worry its under 50 miles

Tralier's will more than double your load!

I got one, built her myself. well mostly anyways. only move 2000lbs, whats that a half load? eh got some buddies helping me on it. split the wood, still not a bad deal. should net me a year to 2 years ahead.

Backwoods, only carpenter ants so far. should I worry about them? I just keep the wood away from the house, I figure they are everywhere already. what other devils should I keep and eye out for.

I do feel bad about the white oak, is a state tree and all.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

If the walnut is straight and depending on the size, you may want to consider processing and selling it as lumber or selling it in bulk to a mill? I just recently cut down a couple of black walnut trees at a friends house and used them for firewood of course and a guy I work with that builds furniture as a hobby was telling me walnut is really expensive and that I should have sold it. Other folks could probably chime in on this.

If it came out of someone's yard, or out of pasture, sawmills often won't touch them because they may be loaded with nails or barbed wire. It is awfully pretty wood though.