Fresh Air Kit Install For USSC 6041 PT

[ScottyDaug]

I started installing my USSC 6041 PT today. I got the vent thimble installed today before the early darkness in the Notheast forced me to halt the installation. My next step for tomorrow is the fresh air kit. I have the FAK-69 kit from USSC. I was looking at the directions and it appears that a flexible pipe will need to installed inside the stove, and some sort of plug knocked out. The directions are not real clear. If these steps need to be done which panel do I remove?


Thanks

 

[dragracer300]

I have the standard 6041 when i put my oak on i had to remove the side panel where the control panel is and put the flex pipe inside from the firebox but mine had a pipe already on the back of the stove to hook it to? Mine was easy to hook up took about 15 minutes.

 

[ScottyDaug]

Thanks dragracer, after reading your reply and rereading the instructions I figured it out. FYI -on my 6041 PT there is a metal cap under the burn pot. This has to be punched off using a large screwdriver from the backside. Then it needs to have four 5/32" holes drilled into it then reinstalled. If this is not done then the OAK is useless, there will be no outside air going into the burnpot.

 

[imacman]

Thanks dragracer, after reading your reply and rereading the instructions I figured it out. FYI -on my 6041 PT there is a metal cap under the burn pot. This has to be punched off using a large screwdriver from the backside. Then it needs to have four 5/32" holes drilled into it then reinstalled. If this is not done then the OAK is useless, there will be no outside air going into the burnpot.

Glad you figured it out, but man, that is one strange way to have to get an OAK working. hh:

 

[dragracer300]

I guess i don't understand this fully? If you have to remove the cover on the burnpot drill holes and replace to get air from the oak then where does it get air from if the oak isn't installed? Also if there is another opening to draw inside air won't it just leak cold air from the oak? Did you read this in the stove manual or the oak instructions?

 

[ScottyDaug]

dragracer,

I got the instructions from the FAK-69 OAK kit. It is an USSC OEM kit that came with my stove. It looks like the way it is setup it will always be getting the outside air predetermined by the four 5/32" holes. I'm not sure about your 6041, but on mine if you remove the firebox you can see the cap underneath. On the backside of this cap is where the OAK pipe hooks in. Without the holes the stove will not be drawing any outside air. I know mine is drawing outside air because when its running the OAK intake pipe gets ice cold. Without the OAK installs it looks like it just gets the combustion air from the draft slide.

 

[jtakeman]

Where the heck would it draw in air if you didn't add the 4 holes? It has to draw air somewhere. You would also think you would have to plug something to get it to draw from the newly installed holes.

I don't get it!

 

[ScottyDaug]

The kit comes with two lengths of flexible pipe. One connects to the front side of the intake on the stove, the other connects to a port just behind the firebox, which has the cap that needs the holes in it on the other side. If the holes are not drilled the OAK kit would be non functional. It would only being getting air from the draft slide as though the OAK was never installed. It appears that when the draft slide is open it may be drawing inside air as well as outside?? The draft slide is below the OAK intake port, so I'm not sure how it regulates it, unless by allowing more air through the draft slide increases the suction at the OAK port??? This may have confused things more. lol

 

[turbotech]

Four 5/32" holes doesn't even have the area of a single 1/2" drill hole. Are you saying that a normal 2" or larger OAK is supposed to flow outside air in through a tiny 1/2" hole at the inlet. Doesn't make sense. Those tiny holes are a huge restrictor and most or just about all of your combustion air is coming from inside.

 

[ScottyDaug]

I tried to find the installation instructions online for the kit, so I could post them, but no luck

 

[turbotech]

I believe what you are saying, but it is one of those things where I would say to myself "that doesn't sound right..........am I reading this right" as I read through the instructions.
It seems like they want to do a semi-outside air burn with most of it coming from the inside. The other thing is now it seems like a direct inside to outside leak when the stove is not burning.
With a full OAK it is a intake to exhaust leak when not burning so I guess it doesn't really matter.

 

[ScottyDaug]

Turbotech,


I agree. I read through the instructions probably half a dozen times to make sure I was interpreting things correctly. Then I started doing the steps listed and everything, although a little strange, made sense. I think your interpretation is correct, I was thinking its partial outside combustion air, with any additional supplemental coming from inside. That is probably why it will run fin with very little draft slide open.

 

[dragracer300]

Scotty,
I'm not doubting you i just don't get it? I thought the whole idea of installing a oak was to burn outside air? it sounds like they want you to burn both? I know when i hooked my oak up i shined a flashlight in the hole i hooked the flex pipe on and i could see lite under the burnpot and whenever i shut mine off to clean if its cold and windy i can feel quite a bit of cold air coming up under the burnpot. The next time i shut mine down for cleaning i'll look for the cover you described and try to see where it actually goes and see if i have been doing this wrong? I'm also gonna email USStove to try to get the directions. Let us know how you like your stove and if you want to put a thermostat on i can help i put one on mine.

 

[BobMac]

I'am also alittle confused on this setup.I know this stove has a draft slide,does it also have a
fan for the burn rate??Now if you install the fak/oak do you still use the draft slide??In the
beginning without the oak your getting air from someplace,does it come in from a different area of
your burn pot??or does a fan control this?I seen on IBC that some took the knock out completly out
instead of drilling 4 holes and installing a 2' ball valve to controll the aie flow better.I know alot of
questions but momma says "if ya don't ask questions you will never no nothin"

thanks BobMac

 

[ScottyDaug]

I emailed someone in engineering at USSC. I interpreted the instructions correctly, and with the slide damper open they verified that it would be burning inside air as well. Bobmac, My assumption is the four 5/32" holes in the OAK are the "typical" draft setting, and depending on the fuel type, and settings it can be run with the draft slide closed, and thus utilizing only outside air. I have sent this questions to USSC, and awaiting a response. Dragracer, maybe mine being a 6041 PT is a slightly different design? If it has the cap you will be able to clearly see it after removing the burn pot. It is painted black.

 

[dragracer300]

Well i finally shut my stove down for cleaning. I looked under the burnpot and there is a small round plug but it is above the slide draft. Is that the plug you r talking about scotty? If what your saying is correct i have been burning all this time without the benefit of my oak. I'm going to knock the plug out tomorrow and see if i can see where it goes. The only thing is this hole is above the draft so i guess the draft will control the flame from now on?

 

[ScottyDaug]

dragracer,


Yes, dragracer that is the plug/cap I was mentioning. It is panted black like the rest of the area under the burnpot, and it is capped over a small tube that on the backside is where the cold air intake hose is hooked. If yours is like mine, you are correct without the holes in the cap there will be no outside combustion air getting to the burnpot. I never considered what you said regarding closing the damper and adjusting the draft setting so it will use only outside air. You may have hit the nail on the head. I'm thinking with the OAK installed this may be the way it is intended to be run. I had been running the draft only two settings higher then the heat/auger, but without the damper open a fair amount its not enough combustion air. Otherwise with the OAK installed what would be the point of having to burn some inside air? I have noticed some other stoves that have OAK's and no draft slide, so all the air is controlled with the draft setting, so it makes sense. In the instructions that came with my OAK it recommended that four 5/32" holes in the cap. I am going to try using only outside air later on, and see how it works.

 

[cmooreburn]

Hi,I hope this helps. The air can be delivered using your oak at least 3 ways,two of which are the most effective. Of the two ways the most effective way to control the air, and the burn rate of pellets and corn is by installing a 2 inch ADJUSTABLE BALL VALVE between your stove and the outside wall.REMOVE the metal cap and store it.The ball valve costs about 5 dollars at menards or a similar store.

The second way is by drilling the holes in the cap and replacing it below the burn pot.IMO this method will not let you control the amount of air going to the pot. Connect the pipe from the rear of your stove thru your out side wall.

By using method 1 you can also turn the valve to shut off the cold outside air when you clean the stove.You can alter the flame size and quality(no soot)(no blowtorch) with the valve. If you go this route,,, spray the inside of the valve with silicone to keep it from sticking.

If you have any other questions post them and we will try to answer them. BTW I have a 6039 which is almost the same as 6041.

 

[dragracer300]

Thanks cmooreburn did you use a plastic ball valve? Also do you do anything different with the slide damper? I would like to if possible seal off the inside air and use only outside like i thought i was doing already and either cut off the slide damper so the ashes fall into the pan instead of on top of the slide. Its kind of a pain to have to shake the slider a couple times a day to make sure the ashes go into the pan. Did you do this as well?
Thanks

 

[cmooreburn]

Yes, the valve is plastic/pvc. I checked out a metal one and the price was aprox 25 dollars and it was heavy and turned like an outdoor water faucet. Spent the 5 dollars instead. I also used a thick rubber reducer to connect the valve to the rear of the stove. The other thing I did was use a magic marker to mark the best handle locations on the valve for the best quality of flame. EX hr1 has a mark for handle, hr2 different mark and so on. Will try to send you a pic.. The red handle closes clock wise, hr 1 has a mark counter clockwise ect, untill you get to full open at max hr setting.

I removed the set screw on the slide so it closes all the way.Still shake ash slide twice a day. To minimize ash I switched to a clinker burn pot, but that's a whole different different story. Will never return to an agitator pot again.

Personally would not seal the ash drawer or slides because of cleaning and summarizing.

I also attached a picture. Hope you can view it.

 

[ScottyDaug]

Thanks Cmoore. Great idea using the ball valve. I am trying to go with drilled cap method for now. I had already drilled the cap per the OAK kit instructions. I closed the damper all the way. Although like you discovered without removing the screw it still stays open just a bit. I am controlling the draft using the draft fan. Right now the HR is on 3, and the draft fan is on five. So far, so good. If this doesn't work successfully I will probably look into the ball valve idea. I'll report back.

 

[cmooreburn]

Just fyi,,,,Minnesota,535pm, 8 degrees, 50/50 mix on hr6, 2400 sf, 1st floor temp 76. 10 below wind chill. No clanking burn pot

 

[ScottyDaug]

I tried closing the damper all way last night and just using the holes drilled in the outside air cap for combustion. HR=2, draft fan=5, room fan=8, agitator=auto. It kept the house at 68-69 all night. Before it wasn't staying that warm on HR 4, so hopefully I'm onto something. I have to run the draft fan quite a bit higher then the HR, or the burn pot will start to fill and choke out the flame/fire.

 

[cmooreburn]

Scotty, my hr is set to 6 and df to1.The air valve is open to about 2/3.It has been said before many times that the higher you run the draft fan the more hear gets pushed the chimney.But its also been said that each stove has its own personality and it sounds like you r making good progress. Are you burning a mix or straight pellets? Corn does need more draft then pellets.
Some good info exists on the other forums wiki that you visit and it relates specifically to the 6039/6041. Both of these forums have helped me alot.

 

[ScottyDaug]

cmoore,

I am running straight pellets. If I run the draft lower the burn pot will fill up with pellets and it chokes itself out, unless I open up the draft slide, and bur more inside combustion air, which I'm trying to avoid. The stove seems to be much more consistent running on outside air. My theory is because of the intake location. When the ashes build up they don't effect it, unlike the draft slide air inlet which gets piled up with ashes. What components did you use to install your ball valve?

Thanks