frozen wood dulling chain?

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-PB-

New Member
Feb 28, 2010
172
MD via Philly
I've been cutting rounds from a large frozen dead oak I felled the other day, about 30" wide. Just had the chain sharpened by my local Stihl shop, (no I don't sharpen myself, I don't know what I'm doing!) After 6-7 cuts, not all the way through as to stay away from the ground, I'm getting the half moon drifting cuts at the bottom. Every cut gets progressively worse. Can that big thick frozen oak be dulling the chain that fast? This is what the dude at the Stihl shop says but I've never met him before if you know what I mean.
 
Any dirt frozen to the wood? I have never noticed a diference at -30 or +30. I would think that the frozen wood would not heat up the chain as much and take the temper out of it so would not dull as easy. OAK may be a different story. Pine is my hardwood so it may differ.
 
no frozen dirt... I'm trying to be extra careful because I borrowed my friends larger saw for the job.
 
No difference's on your chain(frozen or not) oaks very hard and can drift just on the way you lean on it through the cut. Can also be the way it was sharpen as well. What saw you running?
 
-PB- said:
stihl 460

Oh I love You! lol More than likely your pulling up very hard on the saw. Start your cut up and over the top of the log (check my avatar) cut 1/3 go to then other side and cut another 1/3 then finish on the front side. Look at the log in 1/3's... You got a hold of a nice One!
 
Thanks Jay,
The thing is a BEAST! My buddy got it from a pawn shop in WV for a steal... probably because it's stolen. I'll try your advice. It's a little different that my little farm boss!
 
-PB- said:
Thanks Jay,
The thing is a BEAST! My buddy got it from a pawn shop in WV for a steal... probably because it's stolen. I'll try your advice. It's a little different that my little farm boss!


There awesome and should have no issue cutting that log. Just dont stay on one side more that 1/3 at a time and if your going to pull hard watch your cut you will learn to use leverage better with more trigger time.

And wedge your cut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If that does not dial you in now you have to look at the chain its self. Dealer sharpen and you have never ran a 460 bet on technique.
 
Look close at the ends of the rounds. Many old trees near homes & property lines have nails, wire, bullets etc (I've seen concrete) inside them.
Usually in the first 10'. Try some cuts from the upper parts & see it that's better, May need to check the teeth tips or get a sharp chain.
Never noticed frozen wood to cut harder here.
460s like to eat, maybe the chain just needs touched up.
 
Frozen wood has never dulled a chain for me but frozen dirt cetrainly has. If the saw is cutting in a curve you either hit something on one side or the bar is worn (or both). Since it's a borrowed saw, the best you might do is to buy the guy a new chain and flip the bar. Get the saw shop to have a look at the bar for uneven wear. Easy enough to true up.
 
As mentioned, dirt and rocks freeze into ice on the outsideand ding teeth. A loose chain will also cause the aforementioned half-moon.

Oak usually will not have ice In it though, as it doesn't generally rot and hold water. Birch or maple lying horizontal for a couple of years, that you can almost guarantee will be solid ice inside.

LOL, no pawn shops where I live, but I wish I could find deals like that. :kiss:
 
" Just had the chain sharpened by my local Stihl shop"!!!!!!!




LOL this is cause by pulling hard on a good running saw on a good size hardwood,and Cutting to much on one side.....Not dirt hitting one side of a chain or nail or anything else.
 
Dead oaks hold alot of dirt under their bark from bugs and stuff. Don't force your saw through the log. Frozen wood will dull your chain faster, but you should still be able to get some work done. Most saw shops don't do a very good job sharpening chains. It sucks until you get the hang of it, but you'll get better results sharpening your own chain. I'm not the best chain sharpener, but when I get dull like that it only takes a few minutes with a file to get it in 'decent' (read useable) shape again. Learn how to sharpen your saw and your output will improve, and your saw (powerhead, bar, and chain) will last longer (won't have to work as hard). And, if your cut is curving (and your bar is straight) you can sharpen the cutters on one side more than the other and 'tune' it back to cut straight. Lots of chainsaw resources out there to help you out. Your saw shop ought to help you out too (though they might want you to keep bringing your chains to them to keep GRINDING them and taking your money). Get something like this http://lawn-and-garden.hardwarestor...m=cpc&utm_term=228593&utm_campaign=googlebase. PM me and I can give you other links. Good luck
 
-PB- said:
I've been cutting rounds from a large frozen dead oak I felled the other day, about 30" wide. Just had the chain sharpened by my local Stihl shop, (no I don't sharpen myself, I don't know what I'm doing!) After 6-7 cuts, not all the way through as to stay away from the ground, I'm getting the half moon drifting cuts at the bottom. Every cut gets progressively worse. Can that big thick frozen oak be dulling the chain that fast? This is what the dude at the Stihl shop says but I've never met him before if you know what I mean.

Yes, I've seen that happen, to me. A 24" diam oak, after a few days a bit above 0 F. Maybe 8-10 cuts mostly through, and the chain gradually dulled. Buddy cutting from the other end had the same thing happen. AFAICT, no dirt was cut. After that happened, I keep file (and guide) handy.

Cuts "drifting" to one side indicate dull cutters on one side (or uneven bar rails.) Some other possible causes.

Others have reported this in the literature, so this is not something I'm making up.
 
Actually, I think the crankshaft is out of balance and it's about to scatter, sending a connecting rod through your leg!! :wow:

I know you really need a saw now to cut with, so I'll give ya $100 for that deathtrap so you can go get a safer saw.

I'm helpful that way :cheese:
 
lol Here's whats going on its a big saw running a bump spike, on the back half of a big hard wood pulling up hard will cause it to drift left. Thats why I ask what saw he is running.
361,390,440,460 all come with the one bump spikes. Hes running a fresh ground chain from the dealership...............................
 
Might be some red oaks get more petrified when the dry out .
The ones here they I've cut that have been dead standing sure seem to be like cutting stone.
I tend to run the chain oiler heavy , in part due to lower viscosity in the cold but also to help with water from the ice. Seem to throw less water vapor from heat that way. I've had a dull chain and rust, so I'm generous with the lube in the Winter.
 
Feel the teeth if they don't bite try sharpening that chain. You don't have to take off hardly anything to get it sharp again.
You might have to do it several times but it makes easier work... and straighter cuts too.

Jay is right switching sides helps me cut straight on bigger cuts. I am getting better at this. LOL


JMO
 
smokinjay said:
lol Here's whats going on its a big saw running a bump spike, on the back half of a big hard wood pulling up hard will cause it to drift left. Thats why I ask what saw he is running.
361,390,440,460 all come with the one bump spikes. Hes running a fresh ground chain from the dealership...............................

I did notice that the 660 has two sets of dawgs . . . .

I jus' wanna try to stall it . . . %-P
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
smokinjay said:
lol Here's whats going on its a big saw running a bump spike, on the back half of a big hard wood pulling up hard will cause it to drift left. Thats why I ask what saw he is running.
361,390,440,460 all come with the one bump spikes. Hes running a fresh ground chain from the dealership...............................

I did notice that the 660 has two sets of dawgs . . . .

I jus' wanna try to stall it . . . %-P

Your Right.......I dont like them at all on a 460....But 660 if felling I do and 880 well you better have them.lol

heck I can stall 880 at will....lol 660 same thing.
 
had the chain sharpened again, just in case I hit something and didn't realize it, and because it's by buddys saw. Haven't had a chance to get back out there yet, Lots of snow and ice here. I'm going with Jays philosophy that I'm just too strong and massive and I'm pulling up too hard on it! Yeah... we'll see! thanks for all the advice.
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
Actually, I think the crankshaft is out of balance and it's about to scatter, sending a connecting rod through your leg!! :wow:

I know you really need a saw now to cut with, so I'll give ya $100 for that deathtrap so you can go get a safer saw.

I'm helpful that way :cheese:

at first I thought the flux capacitor was out of alignment!
lol... no sale by the way!
 
-PB- said:
had the chain sharpened again, just in case I hit something and didn't realize it, and because it's by buddys saw. Haven't had a chance to get back out there yet, Lots of snow and ice here. I'm going with Jays philosophy that I'm just too strong and massive and I'm pulling up too hard on it! Yeah... we'll see! thanks for all the advice.

LOL TOO STRONG! I like the spin...............
 
I used to get slapped and then told to let the tool do the work instead of me trying to help it. Your job is to guide it; let the saw do the sawing.
 
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