Garn Supply- Upper/Lower Port?

[Sawyer]

[quote author="heaterman" date="1227871057"][quote author="Garnification" date="1227787400"]Heaterman,

What do you think about the switch in supply/return setup on the garn?[/quote]

I have always used the bottom port for supply to keep the maximum amount of head available at the impeller inlet.
Not 100% sure I buy the theory of using the top tapping and mounting the circ low of from that. I have to install a 2000 next week and I'm going to give Martin a jingle and quiz him on it. Seems to me that once you've exhausted the quart or two of water in a 3' piece of 1.5 or 2" pipe you're left with virtually no head on the suction side of the circ. The static pressure available is only what is in the pipe.

I usually try to engineer my piping so that I can flow 20-25GPM through the Garn at a minimum to keep it turned over in a reasonable amount of time. Primary/secondary works nice for that.[/quote]

As I am reviewing my installation plan, I am reading through the past posts and gathering valuable information. I came across this post which got me to question taking the supply from the top port. I noticed some taking the supply from the top and some from the bottom port.
What would you do now that some of you have more experience under your belt. Would you still plumb supply from the bottom or upper port?

Thanks, George

 

[deerhntr]

Heaterman,

What do you think about the switch in supply/return setup on the garn?

I have always used the bottom port for supply to keep the maximum amount of head available at the impeller inlet.
Not 100% sure I buy the theory of using the top tapping and mounting the circ low of from that. I have to install a 2000 next week and I'm going to give Martin a jingle and quiz him on it. Seems to me that once you've exhausted the quart or two of water in a 3' piece of 1.5 or 2" pipe you're left with virtually no head on the suction side of the circ. The static pressure available is only what is in the pipe.

I usually try to engineer my piping so that I can flow 20-25GPM through the Garn at a minimum to keep it turned over in a reasonable amount of time. Primary/secondary works nice for that.

As I am reviewing my installation plan, I am reading through the past posts and gathering valuable information. I came across this post which got me to question taking the supply from the top port. I noticed some taking the supply from the top and some from the bottom port.
What would you do now that some of you have more experience under your belt. Would you still plumb supply from the bottom or upper port?

Thanks, George

George,

I pretty sure you will want to stick with the Supply on top, and the Return on the Bottom. From what I understand, the return side of the GARN has been reworked over time to insure no "short circuiting" between return H2O and the supply. Also, I believe the position of the Supply/Return helps in the stratification, and your ability to deliver the hottest water to your loads. I don't think you want to take your supply from the bottom of your tank where the cooler water will naturally settle. Just my guess and opinion!

 

[Sawyer]

Thanks Russ,

If it works for you I am sure I will Be satisfied also

 

[Jim K in PA]

George - as Russ said go with the draw off the top port and the return on the bottom port. IF you look inside the upper port you will see that is it just a threaded bung. If you look into the bottom port, you will see that there is a section of pipe that extends a few feet into the tank. That puts the return water far away from the supply, and allows stratification. Just make sure your pump is mounted as low as you can.

 

[Sawyer]

George - as Russ said go with the draw off the top port and the return on the bottom port. IF you look inside the upper port you will see that is it just a threaded bung. If you look into the bottom port, you will see that there is a section of pipe that extends a few feet into the tank. That puts the return water far away from the supply, and allows stratification. Just make sure your pump is mounted as low as you can.

I just went outside and looked Jim and I now understand that the design accommodates the recommended locations.

Quick question……How much room do you have between the back of the Garn and the outer wall? Do you think that it is necessary to have more than the minimum recommended distance? Do you have access to the intake/exhaust and bung fittings if you need to access or will you have to open the wall from the outside? Did I say quick question?

I have 12” at present and could move it ahead another 12” but that would shrink the area in front of the loading door more than I would like if not necessary.

Thanks, George

 

[Jim K in PA]

:lol: NO problem George. Questions beget questions in this wood burnin' world . . .

I have about 18" between the back wall of the GARN and the inside of the 2x6 framing. I do not have direct access to that area, but I have one of the exterior T1-11 panels removable by means of screws so I can get back there if need be. I have the entire 6'x6'x18" void filled with FG batts, and the 2x6 framing is 24" O.C. and that is filled with FG too.

I will be opening that area up next summer to inspect the flue and to install a motorized damper on the intake.

 

[Sawyer]

Thanks Jim,

I will make my siding panel removable also.

I too can see benefits to a motorized damper on the intake to reduce stand by losses.