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Gas splitter -Air in system

Post in 'The Gear' started by gzecc, Oct 24, 2013.

  1. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    My splitter seems to have an air pocket in the cylinder. It hesitates while splitting and kind of jumps forward.
    Is there any way for air to be getting into the system but not fluid to be leaking out? The fluid is also gray in color. I changed it < a year ago.
    I attached a pic from the day of its purchase, just to give an idea of the plumbing. I have replaced most of the hoses, the engine, rebuilt the cylinder etc.....
    Thanks for any help.

    Attached Files:

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  2. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    "Milky" is the general description of water in hydraulic fluid. Your description could also mean dirty or that there is cavitation (air in fluid). Any one of these is a problem.

    Milky or dirty fluid needs to be changed.

    Cavitation can be caused by an air leak in the system, not enough fluid to meet minimum system requirements, or simply not enough fluid in the reservoir. Examine your hoses for damage/cracking and especially around fittings and clamps. You can use high temperature thread sealant to ensure your fittings are air tight.

    http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/permatex174;-high-temperature-thread-sealant?cm_vc=-10005
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  3. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    When you changed the fluid a year ago, did it have this problem or did it develop it later?
  4. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    When I changed it then it also looked bad. What are the likely points of failure?
  5. Fifelaker

    Fifelaker Feeling the Heat

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    It does not look like there is a return filter (Cheap insurance). It also looks like the return is very close to the pickup line "hopefully" there is a baffle. Without a baffle oil can swirl and pick up air. If a fitting or a hose is leaking you usually see oil. I would look at the spools in the valve, they can wear out with poor oil.
  6. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    I did replace the valve, I think it was original. It has a stainer in the tank.
  7. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    I'd put a real filter on it just before the return line attaches to the reservoir. With the right fittings, it should screw right on. Since the return line should be low pressure (well below 30 psi), you can even use a bare hose (without fittings) with hose clamp on it (many retail splitters do).

    Something like this:
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466914_200466914
  8. blades

    blades Minister of Fire

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    That strainer could very well be plugged up with a gooey crud, if it is on the pump supply line. Seen that before with bad fluid + water mix - promotes a bacterial growth that's the gooey stuff. If the return line from the valve is at the same level as the fill port or high on the tank and not a couple inches below the max fluid level it will cause air entrainment in the hydro oil, a additional small buffer tank mounted above the main tank will resolve this. The buffer tank is connected to the fill port allowing full filling of the main tank and then acts as the breather/ expansion tank & fill port.
  9. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    And you might want to look at the suction line going to the pump. Then can get weak and collapse (depending on the type of hose). This can cause a very similar condition.
  10. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    Can I mount a new return filter assembly in a horizonal manner?
  11. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    They may be mounted in various orientations, but I've seen manufacturers recommend that they be mounted with the filter hanging down form the head so that any air that gets into the filter may more easily escape the filter and subsequently be purged from the system. All the splitters I see these days have the filters mounted in this orientation.
  12. bmblank

    bmblank Minister of Fire

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    Make sure when you put new oil in that you put plenty in. I had a similar problem with air getting in somehow. Spent quite a while messing with it, fixing this and that. On a hunch i filled the tank as full as i could get it, then it started working fine. Apparently there's a, for lack of being able to come up with the right word, dip tube to keep the pump from sucking sludge of the bottom (this was expected). Apparently this tube goes damn near to the top of the tank. When w filled it the first time it was just sucking the foam it made in the tank. Roached the pump like that. Beware.
    TreePointer likes this.
  13. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    Can I use black pipe to plumb some of it (new filter assembly) in?
  14. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Not on the pressure side. Not rated for the high pressure. Ever hear of high pressure skin injection? Google it - very convincing.
  15. fire_man

    fire_man Minister of Fire

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    You don't want to see those pictures with a full stomach....

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