Getting logs off a big pile

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Block Inlay

New Member
Nov 18, 2014
26
Taxachusetts
Hi all

I'm brand new to cutting and splitting wood. The house we just bought has an older HS Tarm boiler and we got 5 or 6 cords of really nice seasoned and split wood with the house. So I've been getting to know the Tarm and it has been running great for about a month now.

Looking ahead to next year, I got a really good deal on a truck load of hardwood logs. Some of them are monsters and the pile they left is a bit tangled up.

I haven't gotten to work yet but I'm wondering what's the best way to go about getting logs off the top of the pile? Or should I try and move one or two lower than the top (and stay outta the way)?Looks like a cant hook will be very Useful. If anyone has any tips I'd appreciate it.

I have no intention of getting up on top of the pile to move anything. Looks like a broken leg (or worse) just waiting to happen. Also, I don't own any type of winch and would like to try and avoid buying one.

I can put up pics of the pile if that helps. Here's the truck load:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419211863.763558.jpg
 
I would just start sawing from the outside and work your way in.
 
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Do you mean leave the logs in place and start bucking the ends that are sticking out?

Yes. Unless it is stacked dangerously high, you should be able to cut your way in. I didn't see any really big logs on that truck either.
 
Yes. Unless it is stacked dangerously high, you should be able to cut your way in. I didn't see any really big logs on that truck either.

Pile is about shoulder height. The log ends are more or less flush on one side. On the other, there are maybe 3 or 4 ends sticking out.

There are a few logs over 2' in diameter. To me they may as well be sequoias! They're at the bottom pretty much.
 
I leave them in place and cut from the ends in also, and from the top down. Just be careful, and observant of the pile at all times.
I have had to step back a few times from a roller or two.
I use a steel pipe to work them down if needed.
I also always make the guy lay 3 or 4 sleepers on the ground and cross stack the rest on top.
 
Shoulder height is perfect.
I usually get them stacked higher, taller than me. Just work your way carefully into them. Cutting the ends is easiest, and working your way in.
Roll the rounds out of your way periodically. If you need to move quick, you don't want to be stumbling or caught up on a pile of rounds under your feet.
 
Just work your way carefully into them. Cutting the ends is easiest, and working your way in.

What exactly do you mean by working your way in? Bucking one log laying on top of others or right up against others? Or just cutting the ends and then being able to move the shorter (and lighter) piece that's left?

Sorry for all the ?'s. I really appreciate everyone's replies.
 
Take your time, and look at the pile.
Any logs hanging with nothing touching the bottom along the end, is an easy cut.
Any logs resting level on top of another log or logs, should be an easy cut.
Any log with nothing under the middle, but resting on logs at both ends, is a pinch cut waiting to happen.
Rule of thumb for me is, if I cut it which way if any will the end(s) move?
I try to stay away from any cuts that will drop and pinch the bar.
I start high and work my way down. That way I am not weakening or removing support of the logs above, and chancing them rolling down on me.
Always be very aware of the rounds dropping and coming at you after they are cut free.
Taking your time and accessing which to cut and where to cut, will make it an easy task.
Always stay a little cautious and ready to jump out of the way if need be.
At shoulder height, you should be okay. Always leave yourself a clear path to get away from the pile if need be.
 
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What I mean by working in, is if you start on the ends, which is the easiest part. Cut the logs protruding out of the ends the farthest, and keep cutting the ends working inward.
Don't feel you have to work just one side or one spot. It's like a puzzle, cept your taking pcs out, without having it come tumbling down. More like Jenga I guess. LOL
Don't climb on the pile and cut at the very top, that is asking for a world of hurt, although I do it on occasion when the pile is tight and solid. But I try not to make habit of it.
Post a few photos of the pile as is.
 
Yeah. But your shoulders are higher than most "normal" people's". ;lol
No, most other shoulders are just lower. I'm just normal, its yous guys that are abynormal.
 
Get yourself a pair of safety chaps too. TSC has them, and they aren't that expensive.
 
I have a lot of respect for Hogz, but I don't like cutting on a pile. Aside from the aforementioned rollers, I don't like cutting at shoulder height more than I need to, or taking chances with the nose of my bar getting into one log while I'm cutting another.

I roll one at a time off the pile, pref onto a sleeper , and cut them on the ground. My preferred tool when out in the field is my LogRite 60" cant hook. I roll logs much bigger than these with that tool.
 
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You can't cut too many rounds up before you start tripping on them. With a peavey type of tool, you can roll a log off the pile and down the sleepers so that when you cut it up, it's out of your way; you can cut up more logs that way before you have to move the rounds out of the way. With a peavey, you can easily turn the log after you've sawn part ways through it to complete the cuts.

I would say, don't bother with cutting the ends, just roll 'em on down. If they stick out, they're easier to grab with your peavey.

If they are on sleepers, there already is some height advantage. I also don't cut everything at ground (or sleeper) level, because of all that stooping, but it is safer.
 
You got some great advice from Hogwildz already. So +1 to everything he said, with a couple pointers.

If budget is an issue you can use a piece of iron pipe for a few minutes to get real frustrated with it, before you get the right tool. Instead of a cant hook, I personally would choose a Peavey, but if my neighbor would loan me a cant hook for free I wouldn't spend $125 on a good Peavey without trying the cant hook first.

What are you using for a length marker? I got a piece of sidewalk chalk that is my daughter's least favorite color, and made a couple sharpie marks on a scrap 2x2. With the saw powered off and over yonder I walk around my log piles looking for and marking the rounds I can safely cut off without breaking anything. Later, put down the 2x2 and chalk, pick up the saw, cut those ones off, get the roudns out from under foot with the saw off, go get the 2x2 and chalk... you get the idea.

I especially like to cut all the length I can off the logs on the top before I roll them down onto the sleepers. Less length, lighter weight, less damage if something goes awry when they roll from the top to the sleepers.

Grown up Jinga, great analogy.

I mostly agree with Joful. Now is a great time to learn to cut with the tip of your blade...I spent some time with a pro arborist who does utility work in the spring and smoke jumps during fire season. He was all about cutting with the tip and kept telling me over and over to not bring the log up against the bar dogs, but to instead cut with the tip, cut with the tip. It took some getting used to, but now that I mostly have the hang of it I see his point.

Also agree with velvet foot about avoiding stooping. Stooping sucks, I take enough Motrin already.

With my last pile I first cut off all the easy rounds without moving anything. Just get them cut off and out of the way. Then working all from one side I pulled logs off the top to the sleepers and did some stooped over cutting, but I only pulled logs from the top half or so of the pile. Pretty soon I had a kinda shelf or flat spot that was a real real convenient height for me to cut without stooping or reaching high. I would just roll a log basically halfway down from the top to my shelf or ledge and then cut it up (just the tip, just the tip) without having to lean over or reach up with the saw - and when I was done I didn't have to pick the rounds up off the ground to carry them away. They were laying right there about waist height, maybe halfway up the pile.

Do get some fresh chain files and a guide, but you don't really need more than two or three chains. By the time you get through that pile you will be able to sharpen the chain that is on the saw faster than you can replace the chain that is on the saw.

The big ones at the bottom you wont have to twist - most likely. With a 16" bar you probably will have to noodle and then cut off half rounds. I would be perfectly comfortable taking on that pile with the 48" handled Peavey I already own - but my anatomical similarity to brick buildings and draught horses is oft commented by those around me. Do you know how much you can bench press, or how long it takes you to go x miles on a treadmill or anything? A 60" handle will give you more leverage, but there will be a time or two the handle won't fit and you'll have to go to the other end of the log and see if you can get hold of it thataway.

Your bar will get stuck in there at least once. How are you going to get it out?

Cliffs:

I don't climb on log piles.
I don't cut on log piles.
I always roll the lightest possible log.
No beer until the saw is put away.
 
Take your time, and look at the pile.
Any logs hanging with nothing touching the bottom along the end, is an easy cut.
Any logs resting level on top of another log or logs, should be an easy cut.
Any log with nothing under the middle, but resting on logs at both ends, is a pinch cut waiting to happen.
Rule of thumb for me is, if I cut it which way if any will the end(s) move?
I try to stay away from any cuts that will drop and pinch the bar.
I start high and work my way down. That way I am not weakening or removing support of the logs above, and chancing them rolling down on me.
Always be very aware of the rounds dropping and coming at you after they are cut free.
Taking your time and accessing which to cut and where to cut, will make it an easy task.
Always stay a little cautious and ready to jump out of the way if need be.
At shoulder height, you should be okay. Always leave yourself a clear path to get away from the pile if need be.
word for word, the way I would attack it.....take your time, and examine every cut
 
Hog has the right approach here. With a pile like that even though it seems a little scary it is best to work from the top down. Trust me I have worked on many log piles, both firewood and utility poles. A real concern with a puzzle of logs is the possibility of a jack knife. If you start at the bottom and take support out from the top they may start to roll hitting the lower sticks and possibly throwing one end of a log up into your face, or worst! I got lifted of my feet one time when the top of a pole pile started moving and sent the butt end of a stick under my chin and launched me on my ass, lol. Still got the chin scars.
 
You said you don't have a winch but if you have the means to pull the logs off the pile (a truck or a tractor of decent size) then I'd start at the top and pull them down as needed with a chain. Log tongs can be helpful too here, and helps keep you from climbing the pile


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