Going through wood like crazy.

Welcome to the forum; Is this a rear or top vent?
Yes you need a damper, the hole in it closed is about right for overnight burns. You should have plenty left in the morning. Preferably add this;
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82318/

That year stove "should" have a second course of brick above the first that you can set the baffle plate right on top with little to nothing extra to hold it on about a 45* angle. Once you run a later model Fisher with smoke shelf baffle, you won't want to burn one without.

I close my damper and run at 1/2 turn. 1 turn or more to cook with damper partially open. The baffle really cuts down smoke, and directs the heat to the stove top instead of the elbow on the back.

Width across stove (17 1/2) becomes length of baffle plate. Your year is at the transition of the newer style with arch top door, bent corners, bolt on legs.
Pictures of actual stove is best, but if you have flat top door with angle iron corners; 17 long X 8 wide plate on a 45* angle gets you close to a 2 inch vent space between top baffle edge and top plate. The less angle you install the plate on, the wider the baffle plate can be. The only factor is keeping the vent space for combustion gasses to get out over 28.26 square inches. (your outlet square area) At 17 1/2 wide, that's 1 5/8" minimum. This would be the most efficient baffle, under that square area is a smoke roll-in issue opening door. A 2 inch airspace is 35 sq inches, the maximum I would go, loosing efficiency.
You mentioned it has the second course of brick. The upper brick retainers should be level with flue hole centerline. By clipping the rear upper corner from the back bricks on a 45* angle, the plate will set on the brick, and the rear retainer will be above the baffle plate.

If your stove has the flat top door, with rear and bottom shield bolted on, it's a Papa II. Doesn't affect baffle, you'll just know the exact model designation.