Hi everyone, been burning a 1979 Fisher Papa Bear since late October and going through wood like crazy. Do not know if I am doing something wrong or what. The stove pipe does not have a damper. I fill with wood and let it go at a quarter turn. Maybe I am doing it wrong? Thanks for any tips. House is 1750 down with stove in middle, see through steps above stove to open door to 1750 upstairs, L shaped ranch built in 1979.
Going through wood like crazy.
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Any thermometers for a reference? Stove top, flue temp? Into a masonry chimney.............etc.....? Wood cut and split for how long and what type?
It will be a start to help others chime in. Welcome to the Hearth forums.
It will be a start to help others chime in. Welcome to the Hearth forums.
Welcome to the forum; Is this a rear or top vent?
Yes you need a damper, the hole in it closed is about right for overnight burns. You should have plenty left in the morning. Preferably add this;
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82318/
That year stove "should" have a second course of brick above the first that you can set the baffle plate right on top with little to nothing extra to hold it on about a 45* angle. Once you run a later model Fisher with smoke shelf baffle, you won't want to burn one without.
I close my damper and run at 1/2 turn. 1 turn or more to cook with damper partially open. The baffle really cuts down smoke, and directs the heat to the stove top instead of the elbow on the back.
Yes you need a damper, the hole in it closed is about right for overnight burns. You should have plenty left in the morning. Preferably add this;
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82318/
That year stove "should" have a second course of brick above the first that you can set the baffle plate right on top with little to nothing extra to hold it on about a 45* angle. Once you run a later model Fisher with smoke shelf baffle, you won't want to burn one without.
I close my damper and run at 1/2 turn. 1 turn or more to cook with damper partially open. The baffle really cuts down smoke, and directs the heat to the stove top instead of the elbow on the back.
It is a rear vent. There is a second course of brick above the first for the baffle plate. I'll have to look into installing that when the weather breaks. It's crankin' right now. I'm sure I'll be back with questions when I go to put in the damper and the baffle. Thanks for the help.
A damper and baffle will likely solve a lot of your problems. I had an old 'stove' similar to that. Burning it in wide open mode guzzled wood and didn't put out much heat. Turn the baffle to 3/4 closed and it would easily warm the whole house on 1/3 the wood.
Width across stove (17 1/2) becomes length of baffle plate. Your year is at the transition of the newer style with arch top door, bent corners, bolt on legs.
Pictures of actual stove is best, but if you have flat top door with angle iron corners; 17 long X 8 wide plate on a 45* angle gets you close to a 2 inch vent space between top baffle edge and top plate. The less angle you install the plate on, the wider the baffle plate can be. The only factor is keeping the vent space for combustion gasses to get out over 28.26 square inches. (your outlet square area) At 17 1/2 wide, that's 1 5/8" minimum. This would be the most efficient baffle, under that square area is a smoke roll-in issue opening door. A 2 inch airspace is 35 sq inches, the maximum I would go, loosing efficiency.
You mentioned it has the second course of brick. The upper brick retainers should be level with flue hole centerline. By clipping the rear upper corner from the back bricks on a 45* angle, the plate will set on the brick, and the rear retainer will be above the baffle plate.
If your stove has the flat top door, with rear and bottom shield bolted on, it's a Papa II. Doesn't affect baffle, you'll just know the exact model designation.
Pictures of actual stove is best, but if you have flat top door with angle iron corners; 17 long X 8 wide plate on a 45* angle gets you close to a 2 inch vent space between top baffle edge and top plate. The less angle you install the plate on, the wider the baffle plate can be. The only factor is keeping the vent space for combustion gasses to get out over 28.26 square inches. (your outlet square area) At 17 1/2 wide, that's 1 5/8" minimum. This would be the most efficient baffle, under that square area is a smoke roll-in issue opening door. A 2 inch airspace is 35 sq inches, the maximum I would go, loosing efficiency.
You mentioned it has the second course of brick. The upper brick retainers should be level with flue hole centerline. By clipping the rear upper corner from the back bricks on a 45* angle, the plate will set on the brick, and the rear retainer will be above the baffle plate.
If your stove has the flat top door, with rear and bottom shield bolted on, it's a Papa II. Doesn't affect baffle, you'll just know the exact model designation.
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