Grandma Bear fitted as an insert (as per previous post) can I build a screen?

[Cadillaccuz]

I have a Pre 1980 Grandma bear modified to be an insert (I just bought the home and it was already here) of course by the time the short sale closes winter is upon us so I get the chimney inspected (clean as a whistle as per the chimney sweep) I even went up on the roof with the sweep and he had me look down with a mirror for light to show me how clean it was. He did suggest getting it lined but that since I have a double chimney one side fireplace other side furnace that both side could be done when budget allows and since I plan on updating to a newer more efficient model next spring I figured I would wait till then so I get the correct sizes Ect...

My question is if I can't find a screen for the Grandma bear which is proving to be difficult, Could one be made or perhaps do they make screens which could used either directly or after slight modification.
I went to a local place called "Old fashioned heat" and he told me that he will look through his old stock to see if he could locate one. He also told me that I should be concerned about the installation of this Fisher as giving the way it is installed it could very well be installed incorrectly. I am assuming that it has not been installed as per current codes and practices and have been convinced of this from a previous post. I also know that it has been used for years in its current configuration. So I am taking the chance that one more winter can be had out the old girl. I also have been burning it pretty steady for about a month now and so far no issues.

So if anyone has any experience with the screens either original, after market, or home made I would appreciate some helpful advice. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated as well.

Thanks ahead

 

[coaly]

I know the feeling, when you find one, you find them all!

They are nice for staring the fire, quick and easy, tons of air and you can see what it's doing. Once it's going you'll want to shut the doors to make a heater out of it. Watching the wood go up the chimney is a novelty that wears off fast.

Camfan may have another to sell, here's what you need that he sold on eBay. (You can sell me the box when you're done) That particular screen came with Goldilocks and Teddy Bear, so I could use a couple too.
They come up from time to time. Pay to play.

 

[Redbear86]

If you couldn't find a screen for sale you could build one fairly easy, I saw on for sale somwhere in Oregon, they didn't know it was for fisher just for a woodstove- the measurments they gave me make it for a grandma, they were asking 10 bucks I think .

 

[CamFan]

I just sent you a pm about the screens for your grandma.

 

[coaly]

I did some searching to answer your clearance question;
I found the recommended clearance from the Fireplace Series III stoves to masonry fireplace opening is 33 inches. This would also allow good circulation and convection of all stove surfaces to the surrounding air. Quoted from page 11 of installation manual; "There must be a 33" minimum clearance between the back of the stove and the masonry fireplace opening" With diagram.
No clearance is given in the manual for your older stove. A couple reasons for this lack of information; 1, It was before UL testing that establishes clearances. 2, The Fireplace Series was designed to be able to view the fire in a free standing stove on a brick pad or on a hearth with closed off fireplace opening, like the Bear Series single door stoves. Placing the stove far enough away from the hearth face, but not taking up too much room was the objective. After reading installation pertaining to masonry clearance in all the manuals, in my opinion it would be good practice to follow the manual for the UL listed stoves to prevent warping and cracking the rear sheet. Cracks usually radiate from the round cut hole for the vent. More than likely this clearance was established by UL (the III is a UL listed appliance) as all the clearances for UL Listed stoves are established by them during overfiring tests. Most of their tests involve maximum combustible surface temperatures at a given distance away, but they also include sharp edges and corners, and extreme surface temperatures. This reduced clearance could heat stove surface areas beyond their limits, so they may have established this minimum clearance even for masonry.
The question remains; Did UL or Fisher establish this clearance? For stove protection, or for efficiency radiating heat into the room? Or both??

I think if a dealer or Fisher Stoves Inc was asked the question after 1980 they would have given you this 33" minimum clearance.
Could be an answer that depends on who you ask.