Harman Accentra 52i Hopper gasket fiberglass?

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Nepa

Member
Apr 23, 2016
24
pennsylvania
I'm into my second season using the pellet stove. The foam hopper gasket is getting torn up a bit from the pellets getting dumped in and I guess from the bag rubbing on it. The stove vibrates quite a bit and I have to push it down to get a good enough seal where the vibration stops. We'll assume it needs a new gasket.

I know they just want to create a system that generates them more money, so its clear why they would use a material thats prone to failure.

Has anyone tried to use a flat fiberglass rope or other material that will allow a proper seal and be able to stand up to years of use WITHOUT me having to replace it every 2 years. Its $25 for that piece of foam that must have cost them 12 cents to make.

I poked around online and found some flat fiberglass gaskets but it didn't give the thickness so I'm unsure which one I'll need to buy. Anyone replace theirs with an aftermarket fiberglass one?

I'm also inclined to replace the door gasket as well. After I cleaned it out this season and fired it up for the first time, I had a strong smoke smell at the beginning of the fire, and after some forum poking, the door gasket was suspect. I just cleaned it with some creosote cleaner spray and it made a tight seal again. Smoke smell gone. Now its starting to smell again and thought I should replace that gasket as well. Again, anything "better" out there guys use?

Thanks for your time
 
Main door gasket material can be had at many home improvement stores. I prefer the rope that's impregnated with graphite as it seems to keep it form without compressing like the original stuff. A kit with rope and adhesive is around $10
I can't see why one can't find a decent material for the hopper at the home center in the window and door insulation dept. Maybe they have went super cheap in the material used but my gasket of the hopper has little wear.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Ill look in to the graphite blend rope for the door. Never heard of that one. Thanks. A quick google finds this site.

https://www.cjshearthandhome.com/hi...-styles-in-all-diameters---build-your-own-kit

The foam hopper gasket appears to be 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick x 50" in length.

My concern is that because the foam material is so light, the cover may be weighted just so it forms the seal on that specific material. If I get the fiberglass one, the question becomes would it form a proper seal being that there is no lever to compress it?
 
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I don't think you would have issue with using the woven tape as long as you get a good application of silicone under it and then put a few books on top to get a even pressure on the top while drying. My concern with using it that it would get dirty quick and lift the door and your problem quickly comes back with leaks. But you could apply a piece of plastic on top to keep it clean.
 
Its a good idea keeping it weighted with the silicone. I've always used the old screw in type of gaskets. I've never used silicone to seal a rope yet.

Kinda makes me think if there is a "oven door" type of gasket available. Those almost feel like woven metal. Something that can take a beating. Maybe I should stay away from the "rope" type to stay away from fraying. The area itself doesn't get dirty per say. At least not from soot or smoke. Just the edges of the pellets catching the foam. So far I'm about 6 ton into this stove. I'll look around some more and update. Hopefully someone else has done this already and can point me in the right direction. If not I will post progress, photos, and results for other users. Thanks again

Heres a current shot of the wear.
IMG_0254.jpg
 
I think your overly concerned and keep the lid on and not worry. If they don't have a latch then it probably tight seal is not required but there to prevent rattles and escape of noise from hopper when is getting near empty
 
When I open the hopper it changes the way the stove burns. I believe an airtight seal may be essential. We'll see. Thanks for the feedback.