HARMAN BURN POT MOD ?

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I have the P68, and have gone through four augers, this year, i started looking for parts as the stove will be off warranty, and i found a replacement burn pot, it does NOT have the row of holes by the auger, it has the ones on the arch-- but not the row that is by itself, ive been back and forth with the dealer and the company who kept replacing an auger a year, and when i saw the new burn pot, I called and told them to check that out- it does in fact ruin the augers, the heat is too close to it, and it was causing problems so they stopped doing it-- they are bringing me a new burn pot minus the extra row, on tuesday.. so if you in fact have them close to the auger, a row by itself apart from the others.. then id replace the burnpot or fill in the holes,
 
My brother just bought a used, 1 year, P43. The guy at the dealer told him to fill in the first couple of rows of holes to make it burn better. Anyone ever hear of this?
He will need to order a new replacement burn pot I would not try and fill in the 3-4 holes at the auger tube with anything.
 
Hello.

My Accentra FS works fine with these holes (3 rows of very thin holes), room-temp/auto 7/24. IMHO they do need cleaning, especialy with low settings.

By the way, I used old non-filed drills for cleaning, but mine are metrics ones. What are the holes' sizes, please ?

Thanks.

Au revoir.
I holes in question are down by the auger. Over time the heat causes the holes to weaken and the small holes turn into larger holes. I have to replace one the whole weldment for a customer on an XXV. Had to remove the stove and take the whole stove apart with nothing but a shell on the shop floor. Harman did send a DVD with all the replacement gaskets, bolts, cable straps, clips, nuts. Only took two years for the hole to appear.
 
Read the first post "the guy at the dealer told him to fill the holes"

This post made me chuckle. Thanks for the morning laugh.
 
if Harman said they can't confirm or deny, your talking to the wrong tech then, because they told me that is exactly why they stopped putting the last row of holes - and they are replacing my burn pot under warranty(even though its OFF warranty as of last year) because ive been complaining about the augers for three years.. and this year i wanted the REASON. mine didnt just wear, i could reach in and bend the "fin" of the augar off with my hands, it was worn that this and ratted up.. i have one here, i kept the worn one, and that was after only three month of using the stove last year. Maybe they wont admit it right away, but it over heats the auger, makes it soft, and it just wears thin and frays or breaks off..
 
had to have the weldment and burnpot replaced on my accentra insert because of the holes. sure enough the new pot doesn't have the holes.
my service manager said it was my fault but harman would fix it one time under the warranty(B.S.)
also, i filled the row of holes closest to the auger on my p38 with thermo steel from auto zone. engineers aren't always correct,sometimes the jimmy joe bobby sue jim tom willie honey boo boos and a little common sense go a long way!
 
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Celmax, its totally BS that the holes are your fault, they screwed up when they made the burnpot with those extra holes, otherwise, it would not be causing the problems, id like to know- why there was not a recall on the stoves with that problem, as with the fire burning that far back , and heating the back part more, if i had a fire because of the stove over heating-- id be after Harman.. what weldments are you talking about that you had burn out? because when they come to change the burnpot, im sure going to see if its worn there or not too.. i paid too much money to have headaches for four years, and I am not getting shorted because they think its ok to ignore screw ups..
 
Hello
It really is not that simple guys!
The latest burn pot mod that Harman made adds an air channel to the back plane that we call the Fluted Burn Pot. This goes with a new flame guide that has to notches in the back corners to let that air out to push the flame forward away from the auger and fire brick. Therefore with this latest mod you can have more air holes for better performance.
I just upgraded an old Harman Advance with the black metal hopper lid to the new burn pot and flame guide.
See 1st pic below with new pot in front of the old pot.
New pot has 6 rows of holes
Old pot has 4-1/2 rows of holes.
2nd pic is old burn pot cleaned up to clearly show 4-1/4 rows of holes.

Now here is the kicker. Harman standardized this new fluted burn pot for the P43 and other models
Burn pot part # 1-10-00675

See more pics and other models like XXV and accentra insert. :)
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/P43-XXV-Advance-Accentra-Insert-Burn-Pot-p/1-10-00675.htm
 

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Also
The old PP38+ has a burn pot with only 4 rows of holes. No auger melting there but it does not put out as much heat as the new fluted P43 pot with 6 rows of holes.
1st pic below is the PP38+ with the single fire brick and offset thumb screws for the cover.
2nd pic is the original PP38+ burn pot with the 4 rows of holes.

Hope this info helps :)
 

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As long as we are talking burn pot air holes let's look at the P61 and P61a which is what I heat with.
They have always been 5 rows of holes and no back plane air channel. :)
See more pics of a new BP here
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Harman-P61-and-P61A-Burn-Pot-Weldment-p/1-10-05802.htm

Pic of one of my stoves below

Anyone want to show their P68 BP?
Do you have the newest Fluted BP with the 5 rows of holes?
Part # 1-10-06723 ??
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Harman-P68-Burn-Pot-Weldment-p/1-10-06723.htm
 

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