Harman Oakwood Questions

[bobforsaken]

I'm looking at picking up a stove on Craigslist. There are a few that are in my price range.. mostly older Jotul Firelights, which I fear may be too big for my space. (500 SF room, 1300 SF space I'm trying to heat total in Maine) I've been trying to land a good Oslo, but have not been able to actually look at any of the stoves available... (as an aside... why would you post something on Craigslist and not answer inquiries???)

Yesterday I found an 2 year old Oakwood a few towns over (with 3 years of warranty left). For the purposes of not having to drive across a few states this weekend to look at a 10 year old Catylitic Firelight, I'm very intrigued by the Oakwood. I love my Harman Pellet stove, but I don't know much about the Oakwood.

Does anyone have any experience with these? What would be a fair price. The seller wants $1500, but from what I understand a new one would be about $1600 after tax credit.

 

[bobforsaken]

Right now it looks like my Choices are

2000 F600 Firelight, Cat version for $700 Vs 2008 Harman Oakwood for $1500

After reading some reviews, I feel better about the possibility of having the Firelight in my smallish house due to the cold region. But many of the reviews of the 2000 Firelights mention cheap rear burn plates and multiple replacements etc.

Looking for some opinions... Thanks

 

[begreen]

Would this be replacing the 3100? The Oakwood is going to be a more complex stove to operate. Not sure if it will be a better fit. Is the goal to get a better looking stove or more heat?

 

[bobforsaken]

Would this be replacing the 3100? The Oakwood is going to be a more complex stove to operate. Not sure if it will be a better fit. Is the goal to get a better looking stove or more heat?

Yes, it will be replacing the 3100F. My father is in need of a stove and will give me what I put into the Quadrafire. I was going to wait until I knew more from burning for a season, but since he needs a stove now..

For me the desire to go for a Cast Iron stove is part beauty and part heat retention (and burn time). For the latter reasons, a Soapstone stove is really my pie in the sky, but there seem to be very few on craigslist.

I'm trying to make a decision for this weekend. A catalytic F600 for 600-700 bucks seems like a good deal and its easier for me to handle since my father will be giving me $250 for my Quadrafire.... However if the Oakwood is just so nice, I could stretch to 1100-1200, if the seller would go for it.


So the Oakwood is complicated? In terms of getting the secondary burn to go, or in terms of being sensitive to start a fire, etc?

 

[branchburner]

I got my Oakwood 2 yrs old for $1200, which I thought was great deal. In hindsight, I wouldn't pay that now, especially with the tax credit. Maybe $1000. My stove had a damaged combustion package, a $300 part. The other used Oakwood I saw (same age, same price) had the same problem. So that would be good to look for.

Even if the CP is in good shape, I suspect you may need to replace it every five years or so. I was going to try cleaning mine every season, but it gets so fragile after a year or two I've decided after recently cleaning it to just leave it alone. The drawback is that without cleaning, it tends to get a bit clogged with ash. So without maintenance, the performance of the stove may suffer a bit after a few years. A minor pain, as it is still a great stove.

To burn its best, the Oakwood likes to burn hot and long. So it is a great heating machine in the dead of winter, but not ideal in fall and spring, where you need short and inefficient fires. You'll get that with any stove that's a bit oversized for your space (as both these stoves may be), but I prefer the bigger stove to have the reserve capacity. I have no fear of the stove not being able to keep up with sub-zero temps.

If I was to replace this stove, I'd lean towards a Woodstock Fireview. The cat offers more control for mild-weather burning.

 

[bobforsaken]

I got my Oakwood 2 yrs old for $1200, which I thought was great deal. In hindsight, I wouldn't pay that now, especially with the tax credit. Maybe $1000. My stove had a damaged combustion package, a $300 part. The other used Oakwood I saw (same age, same price) had the same problem. So that would be good to look for.

Even if the CP is in good shape, I suspect you may need to replace it every five years or so. I was going to try cleaning mine every season, but it gets so fragile after a year or two I've decided after recently cleaning it to just leave it alone. The drawback is that without cleaning, it tends to get a bit clogged with ash. So without maintenance, the performance of the stove may suffer a bit after a few years. A minor pain, as it is still a great stove.

To burn its best, the Oakwood likes to burn hot and long. So it is a great heating machine in the dead of winter, but not ideal in fall and spring, where you need short and inefficient fires. You'll get that with any stove that's a bit oversized for your space (as both these stoves may be), but I prefer the bigger stove to have the reserve capacity. I have no fear of the stove not being able to keep up with sub-zero temps.

If I was to replace this stove, I'd lean towards a Woodstock Fireview. The cat offers more control for mild-weather burning.

Thanks branchburner.. That's very helpful. I'm going to start another thread regarding the 2000 Jotul, since that is what I'm leaning towards, and I doubt many are going to click on a Oakwood thread to share insight on the Firelight.

 

[branchburner]

My two cents on the Jotul is after ten years, who knows how the guy used it? I'd personally be hesitant to buy unless I was a pro or had a pro look at it. But at that price I expect it will sell very, very soon. The Oakwood will not, so you could throw out a lowball offer (contingent upon CP inspection).

PS - A new Woodstock nets down to about $1500 after credit!

 

[bobforsaken]

My two cents on the Jotul is after ten years, who knows how the guy used it? I'd personally be hesitant to buy unless I was a pro or had a pro look at it. But at that price I expect it will sell very, very soon. The Oakwood will not, so you could throw out a lowball offer (contingent upon CP inspection).

PS - A new Woodstock nets down to about $1500 after credit!

Thanks.. the woman who is selling the Jotul said that it was serviced in Dec 2009 (gaskets replace etc). I had asked her if the Catalytic unit was replaced and she said "No.. the guy from the stove shope didn't think it needed to" Apparently the same Cat has been used for 8 years, so I can't imagine its long for this world, but it doesn't sound like its been abused.

 

[branchburner]

Just the fact that that it's actually being serviced is a great plus. Unless the guy said "don't replace the cat, this stove ain't worth it" it sounds like you are getting a good deal. If the seller seems honest and conscientious, I say go for it. But in your other thread (or a new one) try to get some specific pointers on any problems to look for in an inspection of this model. Then you can bargain down (or pass) if needed.

 

[firefighterjake]

Just the fact that that it's actually being serviced is a great plus. Unless the guy said "don't replace the cat, this stove ain't worth it" it sounds like you are getting a good deal. If the seller seems honest and conscientious, I say go for it. But in your other thread (or a new one) try to get some specific pointers on any problems to look for in an inspection of this model. Then you can bargain down (or pass) if needed.

I was thinking the same thing . . . maybe she would be willing to let you speak to the person who serviced her stove so they can give their opinion of the stove.

 

[fahmahbob]

I would stay away from the Oakwood. I used to love mine, until they changed the combustion package. Now the darn thing needs replacing nearly every year. $350 a pop.

 

[bobforsaken]

Picked up the Jotul and had my first fire last night. This morning I pulled out the Cat to check it out and it looks pretty good.. No cracks crumbles or clogs. I did notice the rear burn plate is cracked. Its something I knew was a problem, but missed it while looking at the stove originally. Is there any issue with operating with the rear burn plate cracked until I can afford a replacement?

I don't feel so bad about getting her to drop the price a hundred, now.

 

[begreen]

Sounds good, but where are the pictures!

Is this a hairline or serious crack? If it is a long crack, I'd replace the burn plate before the season gets going and keep the old one as a back up spare. Maybe apply some of the savings you gained by not getting the Oakwood. Once they crack they can start warping and exposing the rear castings to direct flame. If it's a short crack, just starting, then maybe try drilling an 1/8" hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading? If the plate is still true I might even be tempted to pull it out and figure out how to bolt a steel plate over the crack.

 

[bobforsaken]

Sounds good, but where are the pictures!

Is this a hairline or serious crack? If it is a long crack, I'd replace the burn plate before the season gets going and keep the old one as a back up spare. Maybe apply some of the savings you gained by not getting the Oakwood. Once they crack they can start warping and exposing the rear castings to direct flame. If it's a short crack, just starting, then maybe try drilling an 1/8" hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading? If the plate is still true I might even be tempted to pull it out and figure out how to bolt a steel plate over the crack.

Here are some pics of the crack and the stove/install The crack is at the very bottom about a third of the way from the left edge.. Its a few inches in length. It doesn't look warped as a whole.. Maybe the steel plate idea is worth exploring.

The part itself is about 100 bucks, so its not the end of the world... but its an ongoing problem from what I understand.. I Just don't know if this one needs replacing badly or not.

 

[begreen]

It's a fairly long crack. Drill an 1/8" hole at the top end of the crack to stop the spread. I'd get the replacement plate now, you will need it eventually and who knows where the dollar will be in a couple years. In the meantime I'd be tempted to try bolting a steel plate across the crack for a repair. If it lasts a season or two more, great. If not, you will have your spare ready to go.

 

[bobforsaken]

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try