Harman Oakwood, removing 'shoe' brick

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Donk4kyv

Member
Dec 30, 2013
52
North central TN
To thoroughly clean the combustion package, the manual recommends removing the 'ramp' brick, which I assume is the same thing as the 'shoe' brick, which sits in front of the combustion package. I was able to easily remove the other bricks, but the shoe brick sits in a shallow pan formed by the casting in the bottom of the stove. As far as I can tell, it is impossible to remove it without removing the combustion package first, which would entail taking the entire back panel off the stove, plus there are a couple of phillips screws going through the front of the combustion package, and I have no idea what those attach to, or whether they could be removed without breaking the screws or damaging the combustion package.

The problem with the shoe brick is that it appears to be necessary to move it upwards about a half inch to clear the lip of the pan where it sits, but there is no clearance between the top of the shoe brick and interior of the combustion package. The combustion package is made of some kind of soft ceramic material that is extremely fragile, so I would be afraid to force the shoe brick up to clear the lip.

I jury-rigged a vacuum cleaner attachment using a short piece of garden hose that I could snake down inside the combustion package without damaging it, and suck up the accumulated ash. By carefully using the hosepipe attachment, I was able to suck out most of the ash, but the problem is that while trying to see if there was a way that the shoe brick would come out, I tilted it forward, and some of the accumulated ash managed to fall under the brick, and now it won't sit flat, but remains tilted forward. I don't know how I would remove the ash under the brick without first taking the brick out of the stove.

Does anyone know of a safe way to remove the shoe brick without disassembling the whole stove and completely taking the combustion package out first?

Don
 
Don, at least with my stove I am able to hold the shoe brick from the top and lift it straight up just enough so it can be tilted (bottom towards me) so that the bottom will clear the edge of the pan, and slide right out. When I move it upwards about a half inch to clear the lip of the pan where it sits, even though it appears there is no clearance between the top of the shoe brick and interior of the combustion package, it touches the CP and scrapes against it but does not damage it.. It will not come out if you try tilting it the other way (top towards you) as you found out.

Once out, you will no doubt see quite an accumulation of ash, not to mention bits of the CP that have crumbled off. (Although maybe you got most of it with your hose). Be careful with the vacuum that you do not suck big hunks of the CP off, as I have done.
 
Those screws hold the front panel of the cp on if you remove them the fron will usually come right off for easy cleaning and shoe removal. But all of them i work on i was able to pull the shoe brick with no problems by lifting a little and tilting back
 
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