Harman P43 problem

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I had to go to dinner with my lady friend. I will change the gasket on the ash door first. stove is working fine just cant hook up the low pressure vacuum switch. got it jumped. the gaskets are the last thing I hope. does anyone know the size of the gaskets on the P43?
3/8". But as noted I used 1/2" on my ash pan door of my P61 and it fit really nice, not too tight or too loose, I did stretch it slightly but it would have been fine if not as well.

I don't have money to burn at all, the stove was off and had been for two weeks lol !!
 
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The fire door gasket is 3/8" - not sure about the ash pan door but I would guess the same.
 
3/8". But as noted I used 1/2" on my ash pan door of my P61 and it fit really nice, not too tight or too loose, I did stretch it slightly but it would have been fine if not as well.

I don't have money to burn at all, the stove was off and had been for two weeks lol !!
Good to know - I'll have to replace the ash pan door gasket for the P61 next summer.
 
One can pull it slightly(1/2) and reduce its size or push the 3/8s and increase it some. Doing that one will need some clamps while the cement is setting.
 
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One can pull it slightly(1/2) and reduce its size or push the 3/8s and increase it some. Doing that one will need some clamps while the cement is setting.
well I will leave it alone for now it is working well being the first real cold days are coming. later in the week it will warm up then I will fool with it
 
Technically it is not working with you negating the vacuum SAFETY switch. We in MN will see a rise of home fires when the temps dip.
Don't want to see your house in the news with smoke rolling out the doors
 
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well I will leave it alone for now it is working well being the first real cold days are coming. later in the week it will warm up then I will fool with it
I think it was within this thread what I ask about the following. Has something changed since the reply where you said with the vacuum switch disconnected the flame still leaned forward ( I think it was you who said that in this thread, I'm not going back to dig it up)? And prior to that I know you said the door glass was getting black. FWIW, non of that constitutes " working well", it just doesn't shut down because a safety feature has been disabled.
 
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I think it was within this thread what I ask about the following. Has something changed since the reply where you said with the vacuum switch disconnected the flame still leaned forward ( I think it was you who said that in this thread, I'm not going back to dig it up)? And prior to that I know you said the door glass was getting black. FWIW, non of that constitutes " working well", it just doesn't shut down because a safety feature has been disabled.
on the right side of the ash box door where the hinge is I put a lighter there and it seemed to suck in the flame so being the door is even with the box I put a piece of aluminum tape over the seam between the door and the box. flame is much better and the glass has not got black in 2 days where it would in an hour. so I guess if the stove is sucking air thru the door it is less then what can come thru the air intake I think. I am here all the time and if I go somewhere for a few hours I make sure there is not the much pellets in the stove
 
I'd just go ahead and get the rope gaskets replace on both doors asap. Sounds like that is a big part of you problem right now. They are cheap and easy to do. I did mine in about an hour or less start to finish and I did a very thorough job on cleaning the old adhesive off completely.

Night and day on the burn and flames in the old 45. Cheap money well spent.
 
on the right side of the ash box door where the hinge is I put a lighter there and it seemed to suck in the flame so being the door is even with the box I put a piece of aluminum tape over the seam between the door and the box. flame is much better and the glass has not got black in 2 days where it would in an hour. so I guess if the stove is sucking air thru the door it is less then what can come thru the air intake I think. I am here all the time and if I go somewhere for a few hours I make sure there is not the much pellets in the stove
My P61 leaked there too and about 1/3 of the length of the door bottom as well. And the stove was basically brand new at the time. I couldn't wait to get the gasket changed out, deal with service calls and all that stuff. I just went to the hardware store and bought some gasket material that afternoon and changed the foolish thing. I already mentioned that I bumped the size up to 1/2 inch. It hasn't leaked since in three burning seasons now..
 
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When I replaced the 45's gaskets last fall I went with the 3/8" again but I will say it was a thicker 3/8" than what Harman uses. Looking at these lame gaskets on my new 68 and comparing to the new gaskets on my 45 there is a very notable difference in size and seal.

My 68's ropes look more like a heavy 1/4" or 5/16s" comparatively speaking. I will peel mine off and take it with me as a gauge for the new ones. Pretty good at eyeballing stuff. Not very concerned whether or not the new package says 1/2" or 3/8" but more concerned with a nice snug fit. Not jammed up but good, snug, and sealed.

So far in my experience the Harmans have three issues. The lame cave man engineered pot scraper tool, the almost too small rope gaskets, and the photo copied owners manuals. Just being very critical of a great stove brand. But IMHO these three items can stand room for improvement. I'd much rather deal with these novelty issues than other non-stop problems.
 
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When I replaced the 45's gaskets last fall I went with the 3/8" again but I will say it was a thicker 3/8" than what Harman uses. Looking at these lame gaskets on my new 68 and comparing to the new gaskets on my 45 there is a very notable difference in size and seal.

My 68's ropes look more like a heavy 1/4" or 5/16s" comparatively speaking. I will peel mine off and take it with me as a gauge for the new ones. Pretty good at eyeballing stuff. Not very concerned whether or not the new package says 1/2" or 3/8" but more concerned with a nice snug fit. Not jammed up but good, snug, and sealed.

So far in my experience the Harmans have three issues. The lame cave man engineered pot scraper tool, the almost too small rope gaskets, and the photo copied owners manuals. Just being very critical of a great stove brand. But IMHO these three items can stand room for improvement. I'd much rather deal with these novelty issues than other non-stop problems.
Only two brands are even on my pellet stove radar, Harman and St Croix. I see no reason between these two brands to go searching for more makes and models. I might entertain the thought of a Quad, but we have seen a lot of problems with some of those here in the forum, I mean like big, blown out glass and such, flame ups... Ultimately I guess I wouldn't buy one in the end.

Secondly, I would entertain thoughts of going back to coal. Probably a stoker with 4" direct vent. Keystoker, Reading and Hitzer all make them. I would be interested in one that burns either pea or rice coal though and not all do that. Some only burn rice which is not popular around here. Just thinking out loud.
 
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I'd just go ahead and get the rope gaskets replace on both doors asap. Sounds like that is a big part of you problem right now. They are cheap and easy to do. I did mine in about an hour or less start to finish and I did a very thorough job on cleaning the old adhesive off completely.

Night and day on the burn and flames in the old 45. Cheap money well spent.
did you use a screwdriver to get the old glue off? I have some gaskets left from a wood stove they look to big and I have some gasket cement but I will not use it. maybe I will go with 1/2 rope. right now it is real cold and windy my exhaust gets blasted by the wind being I am on top of a mountain. flame goes out then lites again.
 
did you use a screwdriver to get the old glue off? I have some gaskets left from a wood stove they look to big and I have some gasket cement but I will not use it. maybe I will go with 1/2 rope. right now it is real cold and windy my exhaust gets blasted by the wind being I am on top of a mountain. flame goes out then lites again.
So you have back draft issues as well. How I cured back draft and blow back is to run vertical vent higher than the roof line of the house, then a screened 360 deg cap with mushroom lid. Now when the wind blows direction doesn't matter. Not from what direction, it never introduces negative draft or down draft. This chimney often had down draft issues in the past ( in particular with South winds), so I went up with the vent another couple of feet as well ( out of the chimney). This is Cape Cod, we get tough and persistent coastal New England winter winds here, sometimes sustained, other times gusty. Sometimes both. Prevailing winds are west or WNW, exactly on the side of the house my stove is located, I couldn't do a horizontal vent , not with persistent 40-50 MPH winds blowing at it. Every single winter storm ends with this wind direction as well. And most winter storms start out SE, turn east, north east, north then north west. Most houses around here have vertical venting FWIW.
 
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Good flat blade screwdriver will get most of it off. A $5 wire wheel chucked in a drill is the real winner for the project
 
So you have back draft issues as well. How I cured back draft and blow back is to run vertical vent higher than the roof line of the house, then a screened 360 deg cap with mushroom lid. Now when the wind blows direction doesn't matter. Not from what direction, it never introduces negative draft or down draft. This chimney often had down draft issues in the past ( in particular with South winds), so I went up with the vent another couple of feet as well ( out of the chimney). This is Cape Cod, we get tough and persistent coastal New England winter winds here, sometimes sustained, other times gusty. Sometimes both. Prevailing winds are west or WNW, exactly on the side of the house my stove is located, I couldn't do a horizontal vent , not with persistent 40-50 MPH winds blowing at it. Every single winter storm ends with this wind direction as well. And most winter storms start out SE, turn east, north east, north then north west. Most houses around here have vertical venting FWIW.
I cant go over the roof line being my pipe comes out back wall. I have a one foot pipe out the wall with a 45 then a 3ft straight pipe with a 30 then a hooded piece. stove guy said I would not have wind problem with goose neck but I do. that is what is making the flame blow foward
 
I used a flat blade at first, then to get the rest of it off the sides (it is a rounded groove - or at least on my P61), I used a Philips screwdriver. Then, just for fun, ran a thin copper wire brush along it to scare up any residue. the toughest parts were the corners, but really wasn't too bad.
 
I cant go over the roof line being my pipe comes out back wall. I have a one foot pipe out the wall with a 45 then a 3ft straight pipe with a 30 then a hooded piece. stove guy said I would not have wind problem with goose neck but I do. that is what is making the flame blow foward
Ok but I bet you could follow another of the Harman recommended vertical install diagrams. The install you have now appears to be a faulty plan, does it not?

It seems You have negative pressure against your vent, partly due to wind directions. You also have a known leaky gasket. And last we knew you were running with a safety switch disconnected. The stove can never run right like this IMO. So you need to take action ! Again, IMO ( certainly you are free to do as you please). The very first step should be that gasket, who knows if you are getting a total seal with tape on your door. You may replace that gasket and find the rest kind of resolves itself, Just sayin.

I just used a screw driver, scraped the best I could in relatively short order, put down a bead of red RTV and layed in the new gasket. I put the door back on and shut it, let the RTV cure under fire. That was two years ago this month. It hasn't fallen off yet.
 
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Ok but I bet you could follow another of the Harman recommended vertical install diagrams. The install you have now appears to be a faulty plan, does it not?

It seems You have negative pressure against your vent, partly due to wind directions. You also have a known leaky gasket. And last we knew you were running with a safety switch disconnected. The stove can never run right like this IMO. So you need to take action ! Again, IMO ( certainly you are free to do as you please). The very first step should be that gasket, who knows if you are getting a total seal with tape on your door. You may replace that gasket and find the rest kind of resolves itself, Just sayin.

I just used a screw driver, scraped the best I could in relatively short order, put down a bead of red RTV and layed in the new gasket. I put the door back on and shut it, let the RTV cure under fire. That was two years ago this month. It hasn't fallen off yet.
the stove worked perfectly for 3 seasons when new with same piping system with 40 mph winds . so I do not know what is different wind is about 25 mph now. it will be warm later in the week and I will do the gaskets. right now without a high wind on stove temp feed rate on 1 fan on medium keeps house almost 70 using a little over a bag a day so it is ok until I can do the gaskets
 
So the venting isn't bad then. Ya know what I'm doing ? I'm going on hold with this thread till you replace the gasket/gaskets and hear back how it operates then.
 
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You are probably getting same cold weather I am. So like you said warmer later this week. Give you time to get prepared. Be sure to update us..
 
So the venting isn't bad then. Ya know what I'm doing ? I'm going on hold with this thread till you replace the gasket/gaskets and hear back how it operates then.
hard to figure it was great first 3 years you could see the high wind making flame dance put it never went into shutdown mode. I made an extension for the hood and just put it on. I just got new gaskets 1/2 inch and it does look like 3/8 on the stove. I will replace them and hook up the low pressure switch cross my fingers and let you know
 
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