Harman P61 Status Light

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I was gonna suggest just brushing it off through the flue, but maybe taking it out you'll find a loose wire or connection. Nice easy fix.
 
I was gonna suggest just brushing it off through the flue, but maybe taking it out you'll find a loose wire or connection. Nice easy fix.


Yea seems like wishful thinking because I am almost sure the ESP is functioning well, but hopefully it will fix the problem.

At least I will be able to eliminate that all together.

Anyone know where I can get a cheap exhaust motor for this thing if thats what it turns out to be?

Really it seems like an electronic problem, either in the motor itself or on the board
 
Ok guys I took the whole stove apart.

I took out the ESP and cleaned it with windex, even though it was already very clean.

Cleaned stove from top to bottom, again it barely needed to be cleaned.

Checked both blowers, no loose connections, checked micro switch on the feeder arm, it was clean no loose connections.

Fired up the stove and it did the same problem. No blinking status light or anything.

All I have to do is put it into test mode for literally 2 seconds and the exhaust motor speeds back up. Then after 2 seconds I take it out of test mode and it continues to run at a high RPM eventually starting the stove just fine after up to temperature. Then it runs perfect.

So here is my startup procedure.

1 fill with pellets to just below holes in pot, around 1 inch.

2 put gel on and light.

3 shut door after 1 minute, fire is burning pretty well by now.

4 wait 2 minutes for exhaust blower to slow to a crawl.

5 put into test mode for 2 seconds to get rpms back up in exhaust blower

6 after 2 seconds in test mode put feed rate back at 4.

7 all done stove runs perfect

Very strange, not really a big issue I guess, but not really sure what the heck is wrong.
 
What color is the esp wire, what are the dip switch positions. I can tell you that it os not the motor. I had asked about polarity, is it ok or not? What is the voltage to the motor at start up before you go to test mode? Based upon what you are telling im inclined to say control board....
 
There was a pc 45 on iburncorn that had issues and was polarity
 
What color is the esp wire, what are the dip switch positions. I can tell you that it os not the motor. I had asked about polarity, is it ok or not? What is the voltage to the motor at start up before you go to test mode? Based upon what you are telling im inclined to say control board....

I will check polarity tomorrow i am at work right now.

The wires to the esp are white

I will check dip switch tomorrow as well

Thanks for the reply

Why does the color of wires matter?
 
So you have black wires to the esp and the last foot or so are braidex white. I need to know if the esp wires where they go from black to white are shrink wrapped with and orange tape or if they are spliced with anything other than millivolt connections. Just wanted to make sure that you didnt have red wires ( digital esp).....im thinking polarity....try another outlet too.
 
meh....dont think there's anything wrong with it. I also burn a P61. I dont think youre getting youre ESP to temp. Here's how I start mine:

1. clean out burnpot
2. 4 handfulls of pellets in the the burnpot
3. put stove in TEST mode
4. MAPP gas! Char the top of the pellets in the pot, and hold in a spot till the pellets ignite and glow brightly.
5. Close door
6. move feed adjuster to 3.5
7. set desired room temp
8. be warm

works for me, been doing it this way for awhile now. As an aside, a self-igniting MAPP gas torch is a MUST for every home.....way too useful not to have! Need no matches....bright yellow canister makes it easy to find amidst clutter. Can swet pipes and fix plumbing leaks! Works amazingly well carmelizing the sugar on top of the creme brulee! Also good for warming up a sticky springform pan prior to removing it off the ole white chocolate/red raspberry cheesecake! We dont want them to stick! Its an art.....

I used to use gel, then I had to put the thing in TEST, take it outta test, put it back in 2-4 times....now, with the ole MAPP gas, no need!
 
Ok the polarity to the outlet is fine running at 120

The voltage to the motor at startup averaged around 92 with a peak of 96

The esp wires are white then shrink wrapped to black, no red or any other colors.

As far as dip switch settings on the board, i didnt see any dip switches at all.

The outlet is a gfi outlet though, could that be a problem?
 
Ok the polarity to the outlet is fine running at 120

The voltage to the motor at startup averaged around 92 with a peak of 96

The esp wires are white then shrink wrapped to black, no red or any other colors.

As far as dip switch settings on the board, i didnt see any dip switches at all.

The outlet is a gfi outlet though, could that be a problem?

voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....
 
voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....

Yea but the esp not getting hot enogh after only 2 minutes?

Almost seems like a timing thing.

Lets see what scott has to say i answered every question he had.

Like i said the stove runs perfect after startup so its not a huge issue at this point
 
Neither of my stoves start feeding til, usually, at least 5 minutes in. Keep in mind, heat immediately starts wicking into the fire box and heat exchanger and that's where a lot of the initial heat is lost.
 
Neither of my stoves start feeding til, usually, at least 5 minutes in. Keep in mind, heat immediately starts wicking into the fire box and heat exchanger and that's where a lot of the initial heat is lost.

Yes but if i dont go into test mode after the motor slows to a crawl then the fire will never start because the fan is too low
 
That is strange. I wish I could offer a solution but at least you can trick it into running.

I've lit both my stoves a hundred times and never noticed anything like that....but, if I recall, and maybe I'm imagining it, when I'm at the door open lighting stage, the combustion fan spins slower until I shut the door. Then it spools up. Again, maybe I'm imagining it and I feel stupid cuz I've done it so many times.

What I'm getting at, assuming I'm correct, is perhaps its a draft sensor (think that's what its called) issue?
 
That is strange. I wish I could offer a solution but at least you can trick it into running.

I've lit both my stoves a hundred times and never noticed anything like that....but, if I recall, and maybe I'm imagining it, when I'm at the door open lighting stage, the combustion fan spins slower until I shut the door. Then it spools up. Again, maybe I'm imagining it and I feel stupid cuz I've done it so many times.

What I'm getting at, assuming I'm correct, is perhaps its a draft sensor (think that's what its called) issue?

Yea i thought it was a draft issue. Thats why i put on a new door gasket. The draft in the stove is super strong.

I checked the clear flow switch hose thing and it was clear with no blockages.

Still could be some kind of sensor i guess.
 
voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....
LW,
The problem he is describing is with the combustion fan not the distribution fan. He is using terms like exhaust fan and convection fan that are confusing. The bottom line is that the combustion fan should run at the same rpm all the time and its not.
 
LW,
The problem he is describing is with the combustion fan not the distribution fan. He is using terms like exhaust fan and convection fan that are confusing. The bottom line is that the combustion fan should run at the same rpm all the time and its not.

Yes this is correct. After fire is going all is well wit the combustion fan.
 
no. trace all of the common wires off the board to the respective components. Harman turns on/off the commons to complete circuits. I think the common wire for the distribution and combustion are backwards. Look at the wiring diagram and trace them all to the correct components
 
I know the answer.....swap the common wires for distribution and combustion wires. They are backwards..trace from the board back.

Do i just swap them on the board?

You mean the black and white wires right? Or maybe one is red i dont remember.
no. trace all of the common wires off the board to the respective components. Harman turns on/off the commons to complete circuits. I think the common wire for the distribution and combustion are backwards. Look at the wiring diagram and trace them all to the correct components

Sounds good. Thanks so much for all the help so far from everyone. I knew Scott could figure it out.

When i checked the voltage the wires were all zip tied and everything and seemed to be in the correct locations.

Ill try what you said and let you know if it fixes the problem.

How did you figure this out? Is this something you have seen from Harman before?