Harman P61A shuts down after start up

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cacher33

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Jan 7, 2014
9
pa
Morning, new to the forms and need help with my P61A.

My stove starts up normal and will run for a while then will shut down. This happens if the stove is in room temp or stove temp mode. Sometimes after stove cools down and is reset (pulling power cord) it will start up. I believe there are 6 blinks on the status light.

Removed and cleaned ESP probe. Put stove in test mode and the distribution and combustion motor runs. The feed motor will run if you tap on it.

Could the feed motor be going bad and are there any additional test I could do? Is it hard to change out the feed motor and do you have to remove the hopper to do so?

Sorry for the confusing post but I'm away from home and trying to talk my son through the repairs as my "local authorized Harman dealer" refuse to service my stove because it wasn't bought from him.
 
Morning, new to the forms and need help with my P61A.

My stove starts up normal and will run for a while then will shut down. This happens if the stove is in room temp or stove temp mode. Sometimes after stove cools down and is reset (pulling power cord) it will start up. I believe there are 6 blinks on the status light.

Removed and cleaned ESP probe. Put stove in test mode and the distribution and combustion motor runs. The feed motor will run if you tap on it.

Could the feed motor be going bad and are there any additional test I could do? Is it hard to change out the feed motor and do you have to remove the hopper to do so?

Sorry for the confusing post but I'm away from home and trying to talk my son through the repairs as my "local authorized Harman dealer" refuse to service my stove because it wasn't bought from him.

Sounds like it cold be the auger motor. You can access it by removing the rear shrouds. They are secured with 5/16" head screws. You will probably need to remove both the left & right sides & the lower shroud that sits above the sides. I believe the bolt that holds the motor in place has a 7/16" head & it's not in a readily accessible location. It's on the forward side of the motor & you need a small socket wrench, I use a 1/4" drive with a deep socket. Once you remove it, you can hot wire it to 120VAC to see if it runs freely...

If you need to replace it:

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/734976/products/Harman-Auger-Motor.html?d_id=62984

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I just talked to my son. He has the stove on stove temp and set at 90°. The auger isn't turning. The feed motor light on the control panel isn't lit.Could this be because the control board is bad or does the motor need to be running for the light to be lit?

Thanks again
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I just talked to my son. He has the stove on stove temp and set at 90°. The auger isn't turning. The feed motor light on the control panel isn't lit.Could this be because the control board is bad or does the motor need to be running for the light to be lit?

Thanks again

The light is an indicator that there is power to the auger motor. You can verify that with a multimeter...If the power gets there & the motor doesn't turn, it's gone south...
 
In test mode we checked voltage at motor and had 3.9 volts and no feed motor light on the control panel. Motor resistance is 9.2 Ω so I think it is OK. shorted the leads to the vacuum switch and the auger motor started to turn and drop pellets and the light on the control panel came on. Hooked the vac switch back up and nothing worked. Tapped on switch and motor intermittently worked. Could switch be bad?
 
This may sound like a stupid question, and I only ask because I'm not sure how well versed your son is in running the P61A, but is it possible your son or someone else accidentally flicked the toggle switch from automatic to manual on the igniter and just hasn't noticed as he tries to listen to your instructions over the phone? It could be as simple as that as it seems in your description as though it might be reaching temperature and shutting down until either the ESP (when in stove temp) or exterior probe (when in room temp) calls for heat....Or did I overlook something in your post that would eliminate the toggle igniter setting being the culprit?

Either way, you've come to the right site for good advice and info....Good luck from the snowy, windy North Country here in upstate, NY...Lewis County to be more precise.
 
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Stove ran fine until a few days ago.

When in either mode the stove runs for awhile then shuts off and the status light will blink 6 times. It seems like the pellet feed is interrupted shutting the stove off.

I though that in stove temp mode the stove will not shut off whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual unless the stove runs out of fuel or is turned off. When the problem started shutting down the stove was in room temp mode I did tell him to switch over to stove temp thinking that the stove would continue to run.

Its hard to troubleshoot from 250 miles away but we will get through it. And I can tell this is an A1 site for excellent advice, my first post was answered in 10 minutes. I just wish the fix was that fast. To bad this stuff seems to happens when we are experiencing a Polar Vortex whatever that is.
 
Stove ran fine until a few days ago.

When in either mode the stove runs for awhile then shuts off and the status light will blink 6 times. It seems like the pellet feed is interrupted shutting the stove off.

I though that in stove temp mode the stove will not shut off whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual unless the stove runs out of fuel or is turned off. When the problem started shutting down the stove was in room temp mode I did tell him to switch over to stove temp thinking that the stove would continue to run.

Its hard to troubleshoot from 250 miles away but we will get through it. And I can tell this is an A1 site for excellent advice, my first post was answered in 10 minutes. I just wish the fix was that fast. To bad this stuff seems to happens when we are experiencing a Polar Vortex whatever that is.


I have never run my P61A in stove temp and so am not sure if it continually runs once temp is reached. I just assumed it cycled down and went out the same as when in the room temp. setting.

Have you contacted the dealer where you bought the stove to see if they can give you an idea over the phone what could be wrong?
 
Just looked and you're right, in Stove temp. it never shuts down no matter where the toggle is set. However, there is one caveat in that even if in Stove temp., if your room temp setting is set very low, it could shut the stove down. Take a look at the section in here entitled "Your Harman and How it Runs" or something like that....It's very helpful.

Also, you mentioned the vacuum switch and wondered if that is the problem. Has your son made sure there are no unseen obstructions that prevent the switch from engaging completely? Dust and/or pellet debris anywhere in or around the switch or on the rubber gasket material on the lid area of the stove? I ask this because others on here have shared experiences wherein a similar issue caused the problem you seem to be describing...
 
Stove ran fine until a few days ago.

When in either mode the stove runs for awhile then shuts off and the status light will blink 6 times. It seems like the pellet feed is interrupted shutting the stove off.

I though that in stove temp mode the stove will not shut off whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual unless the stove runs out of fuel or is turned off. When the problem started shutting down the stove was in room temp mode I did tell him to switch over to stove temp thinking that the stove would continue to run.

Its hard to troubleshoot from 250 miles away but we will get through it. And I can tell this is an A1 site for excellent advice, my first post was answered in 10 minutes. I just wish the fix was that fast. To bad this stuff seems to happens when we are experiencing a Polar Vortex whatever that is.
so the pellets are bridging or your fines box could be full not allowing the slide plate to open properly
 
The cold is being pulled in by the vacuum in Washington DC as it seems everyone in the country is being affected but Hawaii:)
 
P51mustang,

The boy disconnected the leads on the vacuum switch and checked it with a DMM. The switch is NO and when the combustion motor starts up the switch should close. This didn't happen. Had him remove the switch and check the tube for obstruction. The tube was clear. I then had him hook the vac switch back up, put the stove in test mode and tap the switch. Sometime the feed motor would run sometimes not. He the shorted thew wires together and the motor ran. Ordered a new switch last night. Fingers crossed that it's the problem.

The place where I originally bought the stove is closed and the "local authorized Harman dealer" refuses to service my stove because it wasn't bought from him. He will though sell me pellets and parts but I won't go to him that's why I ordered online.

Bioburner,

I know about the vacuum in DC, I am about 16 miles from there and can feel the breeze.
 
Vacuum switch was delivered yesterday and installed. At first stove wouldn't start so we unplugged it until the covers were installed. Restarted and stove ran perfectly. My son woke up last night to a smoky smell in the house. This morning he called to tell me the stove glass was completely smoked over and a odor of smoke. I figure this is from a incomplete burn. Going to give the stove another good cleaning. I also told him to look at the combustion motor and to check the vent for blockage.

Any other ideas?
 
I just replaced the esp on mine. It was running fine and then shut down in the middle of the night. I was able to get it to light, but the distribution motor wouldn't come on. Changing the esp had me back up and running in no time.

I've had to replace it a few times over the years. If a thorough cleaning doesn't fix the problem and it isn't obvious that it's something else, the esp is usually my next stop.

Good luck!
 
As Harman Lover mentioned above, have you cleaned the fine box out recently? Not the hopper mind you, but the fine box located on the back of the stove just above the combustion motor? Or if you have, is the small lid that covers it placed correctly over the small metal lip on the top of the box?

Others have made the mistake of simply twisting the wind nut down without the cover "seating" correctly at the top and thus not creating a proper vacuum and thereby leading to the stove not running. This is an easy mistake to make as you really need to stick your hand up in there and making sure this lid seats properly before twisting and tightening the wing nut at the bottom of the lid....
 
If the combustion motor was failing in the first place and not providing all the vacuum, the switch was just very close and tapping it was influencing the switch to activate auger. Amazon has replacement motor for $101
As Harman Lover mentioned above, have you cleaned the fine box out recently? Not the hopper mind you, but the fine box located on the back of the stove just above the combustion motor? Or if you have, is the small lid that covers it placed correctly over the small metal lip on the top of the box?

Others have made the mistake of simply twisting the wind nut down without the cover "seating" correctly at the top and thus not creating a proper vacuum and thereby leading to the stove not running. This is an easy mistake to make as you really need to stick your hand up in there and making sure this lid seats properly before twisting and tightening the wing nut at the bottom of the lid....
DSCN0290.JPG
 
Asked my son to do another cleaning of the stove. He didn't know that you have to clean the combustion fan. There was a considerable amount of build up on the fan blades and he found a lot of ash in the vertical run of the vent pipe. Stove is running as good as new now.

I think the original problem was caused by a faulty vac switch and compounded by it needing a better cleaning. When I make a trip back home I'm going to show him the leaf blower trick.

I've had this stove for about 10+ years and never knew about the fines box. Now as I look at the picture in the owners in the owners manual I can see it.

Next weeks cleaning will included the fines box.

THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S HELP!!!!!!
 
Asked my son to do another cleaning of the stove. He didn't know that you have to clean the combustion fan. There was a considerable amount of build up on the fan blades and he found a lot of ash in the vertical run of the vent pipe. Stove is running as good as new now.

I think the original problem was caused by a faulty vac switch and compounded by it needing a better cleaning. When I make a trip back home I'm going to show him the leaf blower trick.

I've had this stove for about 10+ years and never knew about the fines box. Now as I look at the picture in the owners in the owners manual I can see it.

Next weeks cleaning will included the fines box.

THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S HELP!!!!!!
Hard to believe that if the fines box hasn't been cleaned in ten years how the slide plate hasn't jammed....
 
Hard to believe that if the fines box hasn't been cleaned in ten years how the slide plate hasn't jammed....
I went through 5 tons last season and only had a teaspoon of fines. Now that could change with the pellet.
 
It's surprising how much ash can build up behind the combustion motor- especially if you're burning low quality pellets. Glad you're up and running again.
 
I burn around 2 to 2 1/2 tons a year of what I believe are quality pellets. This is the first major problem that I experienced with this stove and also the first year my boy has tended to it by himself. Other than the bad vac sensor I am attributing the problem to difference between my definition of a good cleaning and his. I think he knows the difference now.
 
I burn around 2 to 2 1/2 tons a year of what I believe are quality pellets. This is the first major problem that I experienced with this stove and also the first year my boy has tended to it by himself. Other than the bad vac sensor I am attributing the problem to difference between my definition of a good cleaning and his. I think he knows the difference now.
After how many attempts?:) He should be glad he isn't caring for a stove that takes an hour to clean AND has to be cleaned weekly.
 
Good to hear you've solved the problem. I clean my stove thoroughly every two weeks and make sure to include the fine box. Given it adds maybe 10 minutes tops to my bi-weekly ritual, the additional labor is worth the piece of mind in my opinion. Also, I clean my chimney top to bottom 2-3 times per year depending upon how many bags I burn per season and at what rate I go through them. Given we've had a very cold winter already here in the North Country of upstate, NY, I'll probably clean the chimney at least twice during the season. Maybe more once I see how much ash has built up since the last cleaning in October.

Again, I'm happy to hear your stove is up and running....Good for you.
 
My son cleaned the stove yesterday and found the fines box was less than 1/2 full. I either got realyl lucky or the pellets I burn don't have a lot of fines. Any way thanks again for all of the help.
 
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