Harman P68 auger won't run

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Aaww815

New Member
Oct 21, 2014
54
Massachusetts
Here's my issue: replaced control board, esp probe, and pressure/vac switch and the auger still won't run. When I jumped out the pressure/vac switch the auger and motor run. I have no fault signals on my control board. I bought the stove in 2008. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
Check the silicone hose that connects to the pressure/vac switch. Ensure that it isn't plugged up with debris and that the connection / fittings are tight
 
Is there a hopper lid switch on this stove?
There must be because when we open the hopper lid the auger use to stop feeding when it was working. But I do not see it... Thinking of tracing the wire from the pressure/vac switch to see if it leads me to a hopper switch. Could the hopper switch be hidden somewhere?
 
My P61A had a hopper switch in the back right. Hopefully the picture will upload.

9y4e5eha.jpg
 
If it's like my P43 the hopper lid switch will tie into the wiring at the auger motor.

Did this just start happening or did you do some cleaning or repairs and now have this issue?
 
i know harman use to in some stove, not sure about yours but it may be this way, take the vacuum line and run it to a "muffler" as they called it in the hopper. It was a little orange knob. With a properly sealed hopper lid the hopper has vacuum. By doing this they met the need for a vacuum switch and air flow and the new requirement that was being mandated by regulations that the stove shut off the feed motor if the hopper lid was open. Though they stopped doing it and just went back to a vacuum switch to the feed box area and a separate switch for the hopper lid because the "muffler" would get clogged with fines and not work.
It is easy to tell if your stove is this way by following your vacuum line and seeing if it goes to the hopper, if it does id take the line off the vacuum switch and blower air through it.
 
You guys are getting good !!! Aaww15, you've got a vacuum problem somewhere. Check all of the things the guys above said including the fines box cover.
 
i know harman use to in some stove, not sure about yours but it may be this way, take the vacuum line and run it to a "muffler" as they called it in the hopper. It was a little orange knob. With a properly sealed hopper lid the hopper has vacuum. By doing this they met the need for a vacuum switch and air flow and the new requirement that was being mandated by regulations that the stove shut off the feed motor if the hopper lid was open. Though they stopped doing it and just went back to a vacuum switch to the feed box area and a separate switch for the hopper lid because the "muffler" would get clogged with fines and not work.
It is easy to tell if your stove is this way by following your vacuum line and seeing if it goes to the hopper, if it does id take the line off the vacuum switch and blower air through it.
The air line from the psi switch goes to the muffler
 
So I followed the wire from the psi/switch back and one wire goes to the control board and the other to the auger. Rechecked all my connections. Cleaned out the line from the muffler to the psi switch. Rechecked the esp red probe, checked my dip switch settings and have the same issue.... Ughhhhhh....
 
So I followed the wire from the psi/switch back and one wire goes to the control board and the other to the auger. Rechecked all my connections. Cleaned out the line from the muffler to the psi switch. Rechecked the esp red probe, checked my dip switch settings and have the same issue.... Ughhhhhh....
Maybe I got bad parts???
 
There was another stove with the hopper muffler giving the owner fits this spring and ended up the lid was not seating well. They finally got it figured out by putting a bag of pellets on the lid.
 
The ESP and the control board are not bad if you jump the wires going to the vacuum switch and everything runs as it should. your vacuum switch could be bad but the chance of your old one and the new one both being bad is highly unlikely. You can get a small hose and hook it up to the vacuum switch, turn the stove on and suck on the hose to create a vacuum, if the stove runs as it should you have a vacuum issue. If you try that test make sure you do so carefully with a long enough hose your safely away from moving parts and electrical parts.
 
The ESP and the control board are not bad if you jump the wires going to the vacuum switch and everything runs as it should. your vacuum switch could be bad but the chance of your old one and the new one both being bad is highly unlikely. You can get a small hose and hook it up to the vacuum switch, turn the stove on and suck on the hose to create a vacuum, if the stove runs as it should you have a vacuum issue. If you try that test make sure you do so carefully with a long enough hose your safely away from moving parts and electrical parts.
Thank you..Take the hose that is currently on the vacuum switch off the muffler?
 
Thank you..Take the hose that is currently on the vacuum switch off the muffler?
I always add on an extra hose while the stove is unplugged to the hose coming from the vacuum switch, the hose on the vacuum switch will work but i dont know if it is long enough or not for you to do this safely...
 
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