Harman PF100 Combustion Fan

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Ejectr

Minister of Fire
Nov 1, 2009
565
Brimfield, MA
Heard a chirping noise coming from my combustion fan motor and I pulled off the outside cage that protects the fan on the outside of the motor. When I did, the fan disk came flying off. The stinking set screw came loose.

I've turned off the thermostat to get the furnace shut down and as soon as the fire is out, I will kill the power and put the fan back on.

Which way does the flange that has the set screw in it face? Does it face the motor or does it face outward? Obviously will make a difference with air flow.
 
Got it. I just killed the power and went to work on it. With no cooling air to the motor, I was concerned about it over heating waiting for the fire to die.

Only one way it could go on and get at the screw. The fan cage is around the fan when it is on so you wouldn't be able to get at the screw if the flange faced in. Of ccourse Murphy strikes with the only allen wrench in the set missing being the one I needed. Managed to get one from a fold up set in there. Although it was a bit too long, I managed to get it tight.

PF100 owners...check the set screw on your combustion motor when you have the chance when it's shut down.
 
Glad you got it running - it's all the way up to 20º here right now.
 
heat seeker said:
Glad you got it running - it's all the way up to 20º here right now.
That was my thought exactly when I took the fan guard off and the fan flew across the basement. Couldn't have happened on a 40 degree day. Had to be when I needed it. I guess these things are like cell phones...subject to break down during periods of critical need.
 
That's why you should never let a machine know that you're in a hurry, or need it. That's just when they'll turn on ya!
 
All machines are equipped with a criticality detector, this feature guarantees it will fail at the worst possible moment.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
All machines are equipped with a criticality detector, this feature guarantees it will fail at the worst possible moment.

and that criticality detector is usually put in series with a cruciality activator, which, upon tripping, the cruciality activator kills the most crucial, and hardest part to obtain and fix, most often parts that are no longer made, or require a "simple" retrofit
 
Does that mean my duct tape and WD-40 are obsolete? What about the miles of baling wiring I've got stashed?
 
The duct tape is a deflector shield used to block the effects of the criticality detector and cruciality activator. The thicker it's laid on, the longer they sometimes get deflected, but the inevitability of both of them breaking through the duct tape is....well...inevitable.
 
heat seeker said:
Does that mean my duct tape and WD-40 are obsolete? What about the miles of baling wiring I've got stashed?



duct tape is so 20th century

it is now duck tape in the modern era
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
You have to add bubble gum in order to completely defeat both the detector and activator.





make sure to attach the buble gum with a tye wrap for added security
 
j-takeman said:
Uh oh, Look out the ham an eggers are loose! :red:

Dont forget zip ties !!!!

Those buggers held 2 bolts in place of 2 welded pins that came off my lawn mower handle. Worked for 2 summers until there was a fuel tank recall and the shop welded 2 pjns back in for me.
 
I was under the impression from previous post in the past years, that the disk was of no value, it just came with
the part when purchased by Harmon.......What does it cool down? It only comes on when the pellets are released
from the bin. Am I missing something?
 
Red Devil said:
I was under the impression from previous post in the past years, that the disk was of no value, it just came with
the part when purchased by Harmon.......What does it cool down? It only comes on when the pellets are released
from the bin. Am I missing something?
No...this is not the auger motor fan, this is the fan on the outside of the combustion fan that cools the motor. Go around to the other side of your PF100 opposite the pellet bin where the vent exits. See the fan on that motor that is covered by a black plastic cover. That is the fan I'm talking about that the set screw came loose on.
 
If I would have read it right the first time, I would have see that it was the combustion fan that
you were referring to....Sorry about that....but thanks for the heads up on that
 
Red Devil said:
If I would have read it right the first time, I would have see that it was the combustion fan that
you were referring to....Sorry about that....but thanks for the heads up on that
No problem. Surprised me that it was loose. I just wonder how long it had been spinning inefficiently on the motor shaft.
 
ironpony said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
You have to add bubble gum in order to completely defeat both the detector and activator.





make sure to attach the buble gum with a tye wrap for added security


No that isn't how it works, the bubble gum blinds the detector, and it gums up the activator so it can't activate even if the detector tells it to.

Now get with the program or all of your stash will to OMV belong.
 
First time in a long time....but here it goes. 10 year old house, new to us. Have been going through the existing PF100. Did regular cleaning, replaced 13 fin to 15 fin, but I am still 'figuring it out'. The question is the combustion blower seems to be running a lot. Long after flame has been extinguished. Is this normal?

I did search the forum for similiar issues, I apologize if I missed it. Any input is appreciated.

Brent
 
Yes, it is normal. As long as the ESP probe is still warm, it will keep running.
 
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