Harman TL 300 Users

[N/A N/A]

Firefighter
Isnt 1000 degrees in the stove pipe the Cherry red Zone? I have those magnetic temp gauges, so i expect that it would be a little lower than 1000 with those. I think the Coals is what give the AB the 1100 minumum temp to light off, after it lights off i suspect that it makes enough of its own heat to keep burning. THe owners manual does not say anything about the AB except it does cover the start up procedure, bed of coals,hot fire ect.

Not quite the cherry red zone but getting up there. I have had it up over 1300 once by accident for a very short period of time. Will try and not do that again. 1000 is about the limit I would go. I also would not attempt to maintain a 1000 temp for any serious amount of time although a properly installed chimney should have no problem handling it for a reasonable time. A good hot stack is key for good draft and control on any creosote.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

What a difference in stack temp between a coal stoker and a wood stove. My stoker runs at 225 Degrees right where the stack pipe begins during high fire and about 135 degrees when idling or low fire.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Im going to have to get a different Temp gauge if i am deling with Temps over 800 degrees as The gauge i have now looses its magnetism over 800 degrees and has to be tied to the pipe.

 

[MishMouse]

Im going to have to get a different Temp gauge if i am deling with Temps over 800 degrees as The gauge i have now looses its magnetism over 800 degrees and has to be tied to the pipe.

Yours loses magnetism over 800?
I hope when you are saying 800 that's internal flue temp, not external. :gulp:
External on double wall would be more around the 600 range.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Firefighter
Isnt 1000 degrees in the stove pipe the Cherry red Zone? I have those magnetic temp gauges, so i expect that it would be a little lower than 1000 with those. I think the Coals is what give the AB the 1100 minumum temp to light off, after it lights off i suspect that it makes enough of its own heat to keep burning. THe owners manual does not say anything about the AB except it does cover the start up procedure, bed of coals,hot fire ect.

Not quite the cherry red zone but getting up there. I have had it up over 1300 once by accident for a very short period of time. Will try and not do that again. 1000 is about the limit I would go. I also would not attempt to maintain a 1000 temp for any serious amount of time although a properly installed chimney should have no problem handling it for a reasonable time. A good hot stack is key for good draft and control on any creosote.

Where did you get your Internal Temp gauge? Ill check what lowes has in stock and the farm supply store. But all i have so far is the magnetic wood stove gauge that only goes up to 750 and loses its magnetism if exposed to 800 or higher.I guess its good for the top loading door for the lower temps.

 

[MishMouse]

Where did you get your Internal Temp gauge? Ill check what lowes has in stock and the farm supply store. But all i have so far is the magnetic wood stove gauge that only goes up to 750 and loses its magnetism if exposed to 800 or higher.I guess its good for the top loading door for the lower temps.

Do a google on "wood stove probe thermeters" and there are a few out there to choose from.
As for 800 degree temps, I would highly discourage you getting your stove or your external double wall pipe to that temp. You could/will damage your ab chamber, warp the stove, cause the fire brick to crumble, cause gasket failure etc..
As for internal flue temps, you are looking for 1-1.3K for your high.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Where did you get your Internal Temp gauge? Ill check what lowes has in stock and the farm supply store. But all i have so far is the magnetic wood stove gauge that only goes up to 750 and loses its magnetism if exposed to 800 or higher.I guess its good for the top loading door for the lower temps.

Do a google on "wood stove probe thermeters" and there are a few out there to choose from.
As for 800 degree temps, I would highly discourage you getting your stove or your external double wall pipe to that temp. You could/will damage your ab chamber, warp the stove, cause the fire brick to crumble, cause gasket failure etc..
As for internal flue temps, you are looking for 1-1.3K for your high.

I only have single wall pipe on the stove, so i guess its not hard to see 800 at the flue pipe when you have 550-600 on the loading door.

 

[N/A N/A]

After everything is warmed up, I get 600 temps stove top when the pipe was reading 1000 degrees. And usually when I was at 500 stove top, I am usually around 800 pipe.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

After everything is warmed up, I get 600 temps stove top when the pipe was reading 1000 degrees. And usually when I was at 500 stove top, I am usually around 800 pipe.

On my rutland wood stove gauge anything over 550 is in the OVERFIRE range, Under 250 is in the creosote range. And thats on the stove pipe. Do these reading reflect older wood stove temps? In the Harman manual they stress over and over not to run the stove too hot as to avoid damage to the stove. But they do not give specific temps as to what not to exceed.

 

[MishMouse]

After everything is warmed up, I get 600 temps stove top when the pipe was reading 1000 degrees. And usually when I was at 500 stove top, I am usually around 800 pipe.

On my rutland wood stove gauge anything over 550 is in the OVERFIRE range, Under 250 is in the creosote range. And thats on the stove pipe. Do these reading reflect older wood stove temps? In the Harman manual they stress over and over not to run the stove too hot as to avoid damage to the stove. But they do not give specific temps as to what not to exceed.

The 1K temp is internal flue temp not external pipe temps.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Firefighter
Mishmouse
WHat did you guys pay for your TL-300 stoves, I got 2 quotes of $2200 ,but both said no more stoves till 2009. Last quote was $1950 and the guy had 3 available.

 

[uptrapper]

I paid $1780 otd (tax, delivery and the ss cooking grill) I bought it at a spring builders show from our local dealer, supposed to be a better price than normal. They also let me store it there until fall when I put it in. Mine is nothing fancy just the plain jane black. I called to order an extra ash pan and they said I should be gald I bought in the spring as the price went up $600 and not available until summer 2009. I didn't shop around at all and am not sure if that was the best price or not but I wanted to be able to call someone local if I had questions, so far I have been happy with their service.

Mike

 

[N/A N/A]

I was around $1700. Got it early summer. I think it was a great deal. They went up to $2200 very fast and now I see them for $2400.

 

[uptrapper]

Wondering if you guys are seeing this? My glass stays pretty clean, sometimes when I start it up I get a temp haze on the glass but when the fire heats up it always burns right off. the thing I do notice is that the glass right behind the metal bars that keep the logs away from the glass need to be cleaned about every week if I'm burning at least every day. The glass isn't dirty enough so you can't see through it but just dirty enough so you notice it. I also notice the haze on the glass is in the same shape as the bars. I assume its because metal sheilds the glass from heat in these locations although the metal bars at times will look like they just start to glow if all the lights are out in the room and the damper is closed, might just look like it because of the hot coals. Anyway does anyone else notice this?

Thanks

Mike

 

[Seasoned Oak]

THis is a bit off topic but when i run the wood stove (and all summer long) my stoker boiler sits idle and this year i seem to have gotten a lot of rust scaling off (inside)when i started up for the fall, does any one have any tips for keeping idle boilers from rusting over the summer when they are shut down.

 

[MishMouse]

I paid 2K for mine in Feb 08, just plain black.
Other dealers in the area wanted to sell it to me for 2.4K.
Was told the stove went up by $400 this year.

..........................................

Yes, where the airidones is where I get most of my buildup.
I normally burn that off when I kick the stove on high to get her back up to temp.

 

[N/A N/A]

Wondering if you guys are seeing this? My glass stays pretty clean, sometimes when I start it up I get a temp haze on the glass but when the fire heats up it always burns right off. the thing I do notice is that the glass right behind the metal bars that keep the logs away from the glass need to be cleaned about every week if I'm burning at least every day. The glass isn't dirty enough so you can't see through it but just dirty enough so you notice it. I also notice the haze on the glass is in the same shape as the bars. I assume its because metal sheilds the glass from heat in these locations although the metal bars at times will look like they just start to glow if all the lights are out in the room and the damper is closed, might just look like it because of the hot coals. Anyway does anyone else notice this?

Thanks

Mike

I get exactly the same thing. But I have not noticed the andirons glowing red.

 

[cyclone]

Two weeks ago my one was glowing red!!

 

[MishMouse]

Last night when I got home it was 38 outside, rain and wind.

I fired up the stove, got a good coal bed and cooked up a batch of chicken thighs.
While I was cooking them, since I already had a very hot fire I had to turn the air all the way down or it would have burnt the chicken. With the air on low I closed the lid, and since with the grill stops the lid from completely sealing it was drawing air in through the space.

The result .. convection cooking

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Last night when I got home it was 38 outside, rain and wind.

I fired up the stove, got a good coal bed and cooked up a batch of chicken thighs.
While I was cooking them, since I already had a very hot fire I had to turn the air all the way down or it would have burnt the chicken. With the air on low I closed the lid, and since with the grill stops the lid from completely sealing it was drawing air in through the space.

The result .. convection cooking

------------
How were the thighs? My grill has a very thin tabs that hold it in place and my door seems to close all the way with the grill in place, the manual does not say wether you should have the door open or closed during cooking, but i was assuming by the way they made the grill to fit in under the door it would be closed. Has sanyone used the fireplace screen yet. Im told that you must leave the vent door open (no afterburner) during this operation to avoid smoke spillage and pull combustion air in through the screen.
IM not getting much burn time cuz Its too damn warm out yet.

 

[MishMouse]

-
How were the thighs? My grill has a very thin tabs that hold it in place and my door seems to close all the way with the grill in place, the manual does not say wether you should have the door open or closed during cooking, but i was assuming by the way they made the grill to fit in under the door it would be closed. Has sanyone used the fireplace screen yet. Im told that you must leave the vent door open (no afterburner) during this operation to avoid smoke spillage and pull combustion air in through the screen.
IM not getting much burn time cuz Its too damn warm out yet.

The thighs were great, they probably would have been better if I didn't try to do low fat cooking by removing the skin and the temp wasn't above 500 when I put them on. As for it closing I noticed that it does close but it is not get a complete air tight seal so air does get pulled in from the room especially if you close the primary air down. Today I fried up some chrizo sausage and portabella mushrooms.

If you want some cold weather you can borrow some from me, today we had a high of around 28 with light snow and a 20-30 mph wind. Funny thing come late Feb I will look at the 20's as short sleeve and light jacket weather. :gulp:
Last year we had lows below -40, I could tell the coldest day the thermometer stopped working when it hit -40.

I haven't bought the screen yet, but yes you would have to run it with the damper open.

 

[BJ64]

THis is a bit off topic but when i run the wood stove (and all summer long) my stoker boiler sits idle and this year i seem to have gotten a lot of rust scaling off (inside)when i started up for the fall, does any one have any tips for keeping idle boilers from rusting over the summer when they are shut down.

How much sulfite are you using in the boiler?

I work with two small Cleaver Brooks fire tube package boilers that we operate during the winter. We shut them down for the summer wet with about 200 ppm sulfite. That does a fine job of keeping the rust from happening.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

THis is a bit off topic but when i run the wood stove (and all summer long) my stoker boiler sits idle and this year i seem to have gotten a lot of rust scaling off (inside)when i started up for the fall, does any one have any tips for keeping idle boilers from rusting over the summer when they are shut down.

How much sulfite are you using in the boiler?

I work with two small Cleaver Brooks fire tube package boilers that we operate during the winter. We shut them down for the summer wet with about 200 ppm sulfite. That does a fine job of keeping the rust from happening.

THe rust is on the exterior of the water jacket inside the burn chamber,not inside where the water is, THe steel area surrounding the fire where the heat is transferred through the steel to the water. Someone said to put a 100 watt light bulb in there when not using the boiler to keep it warm and dry. I know that hi humidity will cause it to rust, so i would think that some type of fan blowing through there would be of more use than a 100 watt light bulb. I don,t think warm and humid is any better than cold and humid.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Does anyone know if those Eko boilers they advertise on this site actually turn the wood to gas and then burn the gas ,or do they just burn the wood and also the smoke like a TL-300 or a Cat Wood Stove does.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Last night when I got home it was 38 outside, rain and wind.

I fired up the stove, got a good coal bed and cooked up a batch of chicken thighs.
While I was cooking them, since I already had a very hot fire I had to turn the air all the way down or it would have burnt the chicken. With the air on low I closed the lid, and since with the grill stops the lid from completely sealing it was drawing air in through the space.

The result .. convection cooking

DO you know if hardwood loses any of its BTUs if it sets too long? Have a few cords 4-5 Years old