I just installed a used XXV and the ignitor is not heating and the indicator light is not coming on. I measured the resistance through the ignitor at 48 ohms, so I think it is good. I'm wondering if the board is bad? Has anyone experienced these conditions or know if I am missing something? The test mode on the stove seems to operate correctly and no error codes are indicated by the status light.
Harman XXV ignitor not heating
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New Hampshire Jim
Member
One thing to try
Is the temperature setting on the stove set HIGHER than the temperature in the room the stove is in ?
Ben there done that
Jim
Is the temperature setting on the stove set HIGHER than the temperature in the room the stove is in ?
Ben there done that
Jim
Thanks for the response, and yeah, turned it all the way up, tried running in both stove and room temp modes, unplugged/reset the stove multiple times, cycled the manual/auto switch,running out of ideas.
The likely candidates are the low pressure switch is sensing a fault condition, the hopper safety switch in not engaged or the control board is faulty.
Does the feed motor light come on and is the auger it pushing pellets into the burn pot?
If not ensure the glass lid is seated properly (it has happened to others) and check that fines clean out cover is seated properly. If those steps do not rectify the problem there are some steps you can do to trouble shoot further. Like jumper the low pressure switch temporally. However DO NOT run the stove with the pressure switch bypassed.
If the auger motor is running (no fault on the pressure switch) measure the voltage at the igniter connectors with the igniter disconnected.If you measure less then the line voltage (outlet) the board is faulty.
Does the feed motor light come on and is the auger it pushing pellets into the burn pot?
If not ensure the glass lid is seated properly (it has happened to others) and check that fines clean out cover is seated properly. If those steps do not rectify the problem there are some steps you can do to trouble shoot further. Like jumper the low pressure switch temporally. However DO NOT run the stove with the pressure switch bypassed.
If the auger motor is running (no fault on the pressure switch) measure the voltage at the igniter connectors with the igniter disconnected.If you measure less then the line voltage (outlet) the board is faulty.
Thanks Mr. Spock, the feed motor and light do come on during the test cycle, but not when the stove is on and it should be starting. I will try jumpering the low pressure switch and see if that makes a difference. The hopper safety switch is engaged, but I didn't test for continuity.
Yes. But if the auger is not running the problem is most likely else where.
edit: on a closer look - that yellow wire looks like it is touching the gearing.
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Thank u for responding, quick question, is it rasy to tske out? Is there a set screw of sone ?
The ignitor is actually under the burn pot. You will see a plate on the bottom of the burn pot held on with 2 thumb screws. Take off the plate and look up in there you will see it. I assumed you known that because you measured the resistance.
I need.to bother you for another question, what is this wire?
MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
I didn't have a chance to work on it tonight, but I'll get back to it tomorrow. (Kayakingpeeps was asking a few of the questions today.) I'm pretty sure my problem is the board and my local shop has one in stock, doesn't look that hard to swap it out.
Tried jumping the low pressure switch with no improvement in operation, so I swapped in a new board and that fixed the issue.
Not too bad, but it is never fun finding out something you thought was in good working order needs a part, should have had them burn it for me before buying but circumstances prevented that. I just hope it lasts a while now.
So you just recently got your stove then? oops sorry didn't read your first post but congrats on the new stove.ive found that newer products tend to have more problems new than a used proven one so don't think too much of it u should have made the dealer fix it if possible
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The stove is about 3 years old and I bought the stove from a private seller, paid about half of what a new one would cost with tax.
My local shop, Monroe Fireplace and Stove, was very helpful though. They had the board in stock, gave me their advice after I explained the symptoms and trouble shooting I had done(with the help of the people on this board), and fired up the floor model XXV so I could watch the start up sequence. All that made me confident it was the board.
One more question though, I get a little smoke smell at start up. Is this a problem? I sealed most of the pipe joints with silicon, but didn't do the ones at the middle of the 45 degree bend pipes, the one on clean out cap, and one more that allows breakdown for cleaning.
My local shop, Monroe Fireplace and Stove, was very helpful though. They had the board in stock, gave me their advice after I explained the symptoms and trouble shooting I had done(with the help of the people on this board), and fired up the floor model XXV so I could watch the start up sequence. All that made me confident it was the board.
One more question though, I get a little smoke smell at start up. Is this a problem? I sealed most of the pipe joints with silicon, but didn't do the ones at the middle of the 45 degree bend pipes, the one on clean out cap, and one more that allows breakdown for cleaning.
When a stove first starts (the gas from the wood ignites) it can create a positive pressure in the fire box which can over come seals momentarily. I do not experience this with my XXV however. Check that the flapper valve is installed on the intake port and I would also patch up the remaining joints. Be sure to install smoke and CO2 detectors in the same room as the stove.
p.s. Sounds like you made out ok on the price.
p.s.s What manufacture/type of vent did you use?
p.s. Sounds like you made out ok on the price.
p.s.s What manufacture/type of vent did you use?
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