Harman XXV

[dpd128]

I have a Harman XXV, about 7 years old. When cleaning it lately I noticed a hole between the auger and burn pot. A local welder won't fix it (liability) issue and I am not able to repair it myself. My local dealer suggested JB weld, which I did, but now I'm afraid to run it. The first round of JB weld fell through the hole and the second application seems pretty thin.

Is this beyond repair? I am not opposed to replacing it. This stove has been an igniter hog. Any suggestions on a replacement. It is less than 1000 sq ft space.

 

[Bioburner]

Post a picture or two so we may get a better idea. Several of the firepot components are replaceable.

 

[jackman]

JB Weld is not gonna do it. Their specs say it's good to 550 degrees but it starts to soften well below that temperature. I would find replacement parts.

 

[dpd128]

Ooops. The pic must not have attached.

 

[alternativeheat]

I have a Harman XXV, about 7 years old. When cleaning it lately I noticed a hole between the auger and burn pot. A local welder won't fix it (liability) issue and I am not able to repair it myself. My local dealer suggested JB weld, which I did, but now I'm afraid to run it. The first round of JB weld fell through the hole and the second application seems pretty thin.

Is this beyond repair? I am not opposed to replacing it. This stove has been an igniter hog. Any suggestions on a replacement. It is less than 1000 sq ft space.

I see why you might have a hole that far back, a 50,000 BTU stove heating that area( 1000sq ft) the fire probably is concentrated there quite a bit. What exactly is the hole in though ? I suspect that replacing the stove is going to be costly compared to repairing yours. What stove might you have in mind ?

I'm retired , been a year now, somehow ! But one of our floating managers had an XXV and was going through igniters as well. Added to that , he wasn't the type to do his own work so it cost him $350 each time for service calls etc. But ya know, you two are the only ones I've seen much for complaints on the XXV about that. We don't see a lot here in the forum or I haven't. I'm into my third season with a P61 with the original igniter FWIW.

 

[Bioburner]

Or find another welder. A very simple repair and not really affecting the safety of the stove as your not doing anything to compromise the housing IMO. If someone is that scared of a simple weld, what are they doing welding any kind of structure? I have welded PTO shafts on 100 plus HP tractors without issue. Did I cross my fingers for the first power up? Yes. Your simply filling a gap with no strength needed Clean it up with a small grinder and lay on a bit of 6014, or 7018 stick and grind off any extra weld. Take off any electronics(control board) as most welders have a high voltage arc start.

 

[dpd128]

I see why you might have a hole that far back, a 50,000 BTU stove heating that area( 1000sq ft) the fire probably is concentrated there quite a bit. What exactly is the hole in though ? I suspect that replacing the stove is going to be costly compared to repairing yours. What stove might you have in mind ?

I'm retired , been a year now, somehow ! But one of our floating managers had an XXV and was going through igniters as well. Added to that , he wasn't the type to do his own work so it cost him $350 each time for service calls etc. But ya know, you two are the only ones I've seen much for complaints on the XXV about that. We don't see a lot here in the forum or I haven't. I'm into my third season with a P61 with the original igniter FWIW.

Our dealer thinks it would pretty costly to take it apart to get to the part. The hole is just in front of the auger and before the pellets fall into the burn pot. We originally bought the stove with the hopes that the heat would rise and also warm the upstairs a bit. It did to a point. I'm looking at a smaller unit. I've seen some conversations on the forum about a few models. I'll look into them.

BTW, we've gone through more than just igniters on this stove. I think it was a bit of a lemon.

Thanks for your help.

 

[alternativeheat]

Our dealer thinks it would pretty costly to take it apart to get to the part. The hole is just in front of the auger and before the pellets fall into the burn pot. We originally bought the stove with the hopes that the heat would rise and also warm the upstairs a bit. It did to a point. I'm looking at a smaller unit. I've seen some conversations on the forum about a few models. I'll look into them.

BTW, we've gone through more than just igniters on this stove. I think it was a bit of a lemon.

Thanks for your help.

Hmmm, don't think I would use the stove with JB weld as the repair either.. But then I don't know the XXV inside out.

A P43 is always a solid performer. Harman has a new and very pretty looking 40,000 BTU stove out, the Absolute 43.. The St. Croix Hastings is a little jewel and the St Croix Prescott is one my wife and I considered before we bought the P61.. These all being around 40,000 BTU. Of course there are many more.

 

[alternativeheat]

Or find another welder. A very simple repair and not really affecting the safety of the stove as your not doing anything to compromise the housing IMO. If someone is that scared of a simple weld, what are they doing welding any kind of structure? I have welded PTO shafts on 100 plus HP tractors without issue. Did I cross my fingers for the first power up? Yes. Your simply filling a gap with no strength needed Clean it up with a small grinder and lay on a bit of 6014, or 7018 stick and grind off any extra weld. Take off any electronics(control board) as most welders have a high voltage arc start.

Not sure what I'm looking at in that picture, I guess the hole is in the auger tube assembly ?

 

[dpd128]

Not sure what I'm looking at in that picture, I guess the hole is in the auger tube assembly ?

Yes. Maybe this photo will give you a better perspective.
Thanks.

 

[alternativeheat]

Yes. Maybe this photo will you a better perspective.
Thanks.

FWIW and this means absolutely nothing, my wife says buy A New Stove lol !! But you know what ? If it's never satisfied you maybe she has a good point.

 

[Bioburner]

I have heard of several stoves never turning off the igniters and of course shortening the igniter life. A simple test of hooking the stove to a Kill-o-watt would allow one to see if the igniter never turns off

 

[jackman]

It looks to me like the feeder body would need to be replaced. I'm no expert but this looks like the part you would need:
http://www.pellet-stove-parts-4less...dment_by_Harman_1_10_724132_p/1-10-724132.htm

 

[alternativeheat]

It looks to me like the feeder body would need to be replaced. I'm no expert but this looks like the part you would need:
http://www.pellet-stove-parts-4less...dment_by_Harman_1_10_724132_p/1-10-724132.htm

A lot less than $3000+ for a new stove.

 

[Bioburner]

That looks right. One thing we are not figuring into the $$$ is the cost for the shop in labor.(referring to post #13) Shops are now approaching or exceeding $100 an hour. A patch weld should not exceed $50 IMO if one takes out the board and does the clean up before getting to the shop.

 

[Peterfield]

Duct tape???? Seriously, find another welder. I have seen what they do in an autobody repair environment and that job should be very simple and cost effective in the right hands.

 

[jzm2cc]

Maybe pull the firepot off along with removing auger to gain access to auger tube. Clean area and try patching in from beneath tube with same radius sliced tubing and weld from within tube. Doubt brazing in hole will hold up to heat.

I thought this was isolated to burn pots with those 5 holes directly in front of auger hole. After seeing a couple of PC-45 units with this problem I'm not convinced since they don't use that type of firepot.

Inclined to think its more of an auger tip breaking off issue which allows for more fire inside the tube and metal erosion.

My pc45 is torn down to bits right now as i pulled the whole auger feeder assembly out to weld it. Regret doing that now because of the amount of labor, and can't imagine doing that on a cast iron XXV.

Rocking a St Croix Prescott and Lancaster now. Seem to be a much simpler and very efficient stove assuming they are kept clean.

 

[Bioburner]

Duct tape????

Where did you read or get that? Maybe a line from the Red Green show

 

[alternativeheat]

That looks right. One thing we are not figuring into the $$$ is the cost for the shop in labor.(referring to post #13) Shops are now approaching or exceeding $100 an hour. A patch weld should not exceed $50 IMO if one takes out the board and does the clean up before getting to the shop.

I've done a lot of welding , had to in my career of 46 years all tolled, I never liked chasing corrosion, eaten up parts etc. Even in auto body, we cut out the rot and welded in a new section. Same on old truck frames that were salvageable. Be that lapped or butt welded. Fill welds I don't like unless it's backed up with good metal. Just sayin, that's my take. If I was handed the task of welding that tube I'd be cutting back that herniated section and welding in good metal. If it were my $4000 stove and since I was a mechanic all those years, I'd be replacing the piece with new.. I wouldn't be paying a shop rate though. If I was unloading the stove and wanted to replace it I'd get it welded and sell it, go buy what I wanted to replace it.

What ever the OP does I hope he checks back and fills us in !

 

[Harman Lover 007]

That's a replaceable part called the feeder weldment. I did it on my Harman Invincible RS last year.

 

[Bioburner]

That's a replaceable part called the feeder weldment. I did it on my Harman Invincible RS last year.

Yes and link to it was in post 13.
How much of a challenge was it? I know I would not want to tackle the project and my shop is fairly equipt with metal destructive and constructive equipment and a lift table.

 

[Harman Lover 007]

Yes and link to it was in post 13.
How much of a challenge was it? I know I would not want to tackle the project and my shop is fairly equipt with metal destructive and constructive equipment and a lift table.

It certainly isn't a job for the average guy but I took my time. Lots of disassembly on an Invincible RS which is mostly cast iron but it's doable for someone with good mechanical skills.

 

[MSmith66]

Our dealer thinks it would pretty costly to take it apart to get to the part. The hole is just in front of the auger and before the pellets fall into the burn pot. We originally bought the stove with the hopes that the heat would rise and also warm the upstairs a bit. It did to a point. I'm looking at a smaller unit. I've seen some conversations on the forum about a few models. I'll look into them.

BTW, we've gone through more than just igniters on this stove. I think it was a bit of a lemon.

Thanks for your help.

At the bottom of the burn pot ( near auger tip) are there five holes running the width of the burn pot? If so, it is possible that it would be covered under warranty(parts and labor). I have replaced a few for owners of XXV, and Accentra FS. Check with the dealer and have them check with Harman.

 

[MSmith66]

Yes. Maybe this photo will give you a better perspective.
Thanks.

Just seen the second photo. It should be covered under warranty even if the warranty is up. Check again with dealer.

 

[dpd128]

Thanks for all of the help on this. I never about warranty coverage. I talked to a Harman dealer yesterday. Best case: feeder tube at 250 + labor. Worst: entire feeder at 1200 + labor. They won't know until they get it torn apart. Big job either way and certainly nothing I am capable of doing. I am really torn about what to do: on the one hand, the XXV is more stove than we need, but I can have it repaired for about less than half the cost of a smaller unit, e.g. P43 or Piazzetta. A couple of places around here are running sales. On the other hand, it would be nice to have a quieter and perhaps more efficient stove.

I am thankful there hasn't been much of a winter in the Mitten so far this year!