Has anybody tried the EPA's Burnwise woodshed plan or similar plan?

[weatherguy]

You can build it "cheap" and make it look good and work well. Anyway that's my plan and I'm sticking to it, you guys can judge.
Webby, did you move since you built that nice shed?

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

If you want something more portable, cheap and easy I made this covered rack that seasons nicely. Just have to be careful to re-level everything before loading it because I have a decent grade and a row just tipped over in a big snow melt. Otherwise it blocks almost all the rain with a 4' roof tarp.

 

[Knots]

How's that do in heavy winds? It gets pretty spicy here sometimes...

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

With heavy duty zipties the tarps flop around a bit but stay in place. We've had a few 60mph+ gust windstorms.

 

[SpaceBus]

With heavy duty zipties the tarps flop around a bit but stay in place. We've had a few 60mph+ gust windstorms.

I hadn't thought to use zip ties. I have heavy duty bungees for my tarps. I also snagged a few canvas tarps for my larger permanent wood racks. I'm thinking of building a simple lean to attached to the racks with a plywood roof with the canvas tarps over the plywood.

 

[Nateums]

It would be cool to see more of how everyone's storing their firewood.

I'm in Webby's camp of building something sturdy that will last a decade or two and look good in the mean time, but can also see why you wouldn't want to spend money on firewood storage.

So far I have just been tarping it in the winter, which is shredded to pieces now and probably doing as much harm as good.

I am thinking something like 3 compartments for 6 cord total, which would give me about a 3 year supply under cover.

Also for those not that familiar with building materials, metal roofing doesn't cost much/any more than PT plywood. The ribbed ag-metal is also rated for diaphragm strength which means all you need are some sleepers underneath it to screw it down. If all 4 sides are open I wouldn't bee too worried about wind uplift, but when you start adding walls that does make me a little nervous. We get our fair share of wind events around here that makes me afraid of just weighing down old steel roofing on top of a pile.

 

[SpaceBus]

I'm building pallet totes which I will cover with tarps. Each one should hold about 1/3 cord loose filled. The intent is to be able to easily move to firewood to the final wood shed after it seasons so I don't have to walk through snow in the winter or handle the wood several times.

 

[Knots]

It would be cool to see more of how everyone's storing their firewood.

Right now I just use the 2x4 and cement block method and leave them exposed for a couple/few years. Then, when it's dry for a week or so in August/September, I bring this year's load into the basement/garage. I want a shed for more dry outdoor storage.

 

[TradEddie]

OK, so here's a picture partially built, I decided to beef up the floor towards the front, not for strength, but in order to have safe footing as I load and unload the back row. It should hold almost a cord. I only used one "rafter" on the side posts, that was how the original plans showed it. I've actually filled it mow, and it doesn't need many cross beams on the side to keep wood in. I don't worry about keeping rain out, I have never had any problems seasoning using the basic rack you can see in the background, even this year.

TE

 

[TradEddie]

OK, so here's the finished product, looking a lot less forlorn!

I added more 2x4s on the floor, as designed it does hold the weight, but those 2x4's had a noticeable sag, especially on the right side, which is wet red oak, but even the left which is only Tulip Poplar had some bowing. A few minutes with a bottlejack and that was solved, but now it almost seems like there was not much point in using the cross boards. Clearly putting proper 2x6 floor joists would be a better solution, and while not much more expensive, that does take a little more skill, and/or tools than some might have. As built below, this shed can be made with a handsaw, screwdriver, drill and measuring tape.

I chose corrugated polycarbonate roofing because it came it 10ft lengths, which gives a very convenient 6" overhang front and rear. I considered proper spaced roof joists, but that's just lost storage space, and the PT plywood will be there if the plastic gets damaged.

Other observations, not really related to this design, but pertinent to some recent questions. On the day this photo was taken, the outside temperature was 50F, yet the exposed ends of wood were about 70F, with some darker ends reaching 85F! Inside the stack was below 40F. It will be interesting to see how slowly the wood in the rear seasons.

TE

 

[Knots]

Thanks Eddie! Any estimate of how much wood is in there? I guess I could do some math but I'm lazy...

 

[rowerwet]

this rack is a couple years old now, we just burned the last of the wood in it and I normal would have just refilled it, but I wanted to make the aisle between the racks wider.

replaced a couple bottom pallets with the metal pallet built into the bottom of an IBC tote tank, and cut the steel roofing so it runs crosswise instead of lengthwise for better drainage.

every three pallets will hold a cord and a little more, this is almost a half cord stacked in the racks.

I can't imagine what the lumber in the EPA plan would cost, the only stuff I bought is the screws and roofing (discounted for a buckle in the middle)