Hearth build

[WellSeasoned]

I need advice... I may build a backing hearth this year or next depending on funds and time. I have a corner install, and want to try and match the hearth pad. When I had the stove installed, I exceeded the clearances to the wall by about 2 inches or more ( I have to measure). I know there is two ways to do this in my case, but just want to make sure I am right. 1. Either one inch spacers or metal studs, durarock, grout tile or stone

OR...

2. Durarock flat against wall with grout, tiles and/or stone.

Since I exceeded the clearances, is option 2 allowed being non combustible stone or tile? Or will the heat transfer more into my walls w/o that 1" air curtain in option #1. Thx

 

[begreen]

The clearances are measured to the nearest combustible surface. Sounds like you will be fine with option 2 if clearances were exceeded by a couple inches. And the Durock will act as an insulator to some degree. That's a good thing too. The F400 puts out a lot of radiant heat. If you want more peace of mind you could use 2 layers of Durock NextGen.

 

[ScotO]

I agree with BG. I think you will be fine by installing your cement board, and a tile/stone material on that. Make sure when installing your cement board that your fasteners go through the substrate material and into your studs far enough to hold the weight of your tile/stone. Rember the cardinal rule here though.....pics or it didn't happen.....

 

[WellSeasoned]

Thx, I'll post pix when I do it, but like my post said, might be next season. Nah.... I may do it in the next couple weeks I have a lowes nearby, do they have that durarock?

 

[ScotO]

Thx, I'll post pix when I do it, but like my post said, might be next season. Nah.... I may do it in the next couple weeks I have a lowes nearby, do they have that durarock?

yes, they have durarock and hardybacker. I'd do the durarock......it reminds me more of cement substrate and I like doing stonework. Just a matter of preference I guess.

 

[WellSeasoned]

I CHECKED WITH LOWES, AND THEY CARRY DUROCK IN 1/4"X3'X5' AND 1/2"X3'X5'...... IS THAT THE NORM? I THOUGHT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN 1". ALSO, WILL ANY GROUT BE HEAT/FIRE RESISTANT, OR SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING SPECIFIC? THX AGAIN

 

[begreen]

Use at least 1/2". If you want 1" just use a double layer of Durock with screws long enough to penetrate all layers including the sheetrock and sink at least 1" into the wood studs. Put a screw in every 8".

 

[WellSeasoned]

THANKS BE GREEN.... I ALSO FOUND "NEXT STONE NEW ENGLAND MOCHA RANDOM ROCK FAUX STONE VENEER" PANELS ( ITEM # 171444)AT LOWES THAT ARE 15.5"L X 48"W X 1.5thick AND HAVE AN R VALUE OF 4.5 SINCE I HAVE EXCEEDED MY CLEARANCES BY 2", THIS PRODUCT IS A T&G THAT CAN BE MOUNTED STRAIGHT TO THE WALL, OR IS THIS A NO NO?

 

[ScotO]

THANKS BE GREEN.... I ALSO FOUND "NEXT STONE NEW ENGLAND MOCHA RANDOM ROCK FAUX STONE VENEER" PANELS ( ITEM # 171444)AT LOWES THAT ARE 15.5"L X 48"W X 1.5thick AND HAVE AN R VALUE OF 4.5 SINCE I HAVE EXCEEDED MY CLEARANCES BY 2", THIS PRODUCT IS A T&G THAT CAN BE MOUNTED STRAIGHT TO THE WALL, OR IS THIS A NO NO?

My personal opinion, you're not going to be happy with that stuff in the end. You'll enjoy the satisfaction of doing a veneer yourself. But if you do choose that route, as long as its non-combustible I don't think it'd be a problem.

 

[begreen]

I'm not familiar with the product. Looks at the product data sheets and maybe call the company to see if it is approved for this application.

PS: NO NEED TO SHOUT. My hearing is poor, but not that bad.

 

[Highbeam]

Quick question. If the measurement is between the stove and the first combustible surface, does this mean that you could actually apply masonry materials right up to the stove from the combustible wall so long as the combustible wall is far enough away from the stove. That question has always haunted me. I thought the masonry would conduct heat to the combustible wall better than the air space.

 

[fossil]

Quick question. If the measurement is between the stove and the first combustible surface, does this mean that you could actually apply masonry materials right up to the stove from the combustible wall so long as the combustible wall is far enough away from the stove. That question has always haunted me. I thought the masonry would conduct heat to the combustible wall better than the air space.

I've thought about that before as welI, and I s'pose one could...a literal interpretation of the commonly spec'ed clearances with which I'm familiar would seem to allow it...or at least not disallow it...in fact just never address it. I'm inclined to believe, as you seem to be, that an air space is a better thermal insulator than direct masonry-to-stove contact. That would add conduction to the already present radiation. Seems to me there oughta be a standard boilerplate requirement to, after having ensured that you meet the minimum required stove-to-combustible distance, always maintain at least a 1" air space between the stove and whatever non-combustible you may be using. Don't put any material whatsoever in direct contact with the appliance. That said, I'd be pretty surprised to find any woodburner slammed right up against whatever's behind it (might not be there long enough to get a good pic)...but then stranger things have happened. Rick

 

[Highbeam]

This new BK is 6" from the sheetrock which meets the spec. But I always wanted to apply a veneer to that sheetrock for looks and that would be within the CTC. Not touching the stove but within a few inches.

 

[fossil]

So far as I know, Highbeam, as long as it's non-combustible, you're in compliance. Just keep in mind that I'm in no position to render a professional opinion...but I do read fairly competently. Rick

 

[ScotO]

Quick question. If the measurement is between the stove and the first combustible surface, does this mean that you could actually apply masonry materials right up to the stove from the combustible wall so long as the combustible wall is far enough away from the stove. That question has always haunted me. I thought the masonry would conduct heat to the combustible wall better than the air space.

I'd do some research before commiting to the project, HB. Maybe contact the stove manufacturer, or also ask someone who knows your local codes. I am pretty sure, so long as you have a reasonable airspace, that you should be OK. But you definately want some kind of air space between your stove and the wall. There is also the option of a reflective shield behind your stove, which would serve a double benefit and reflect some of that lost radiant heat back into the room.....