Hearthstone Heritage question

[ispinwool]

Just when I thought I was getting the hang of things...
I think my son or I broke the grate shaker lever--no big deal, I just shut the grate
and don't bother with it (I usually take the ashes out through the door anyway).

BUT--now when I light it up, as soon as it gets a nice blaze going and I close the
door (I leave it open a crack to get things rolling)....the fire goes OUT. FAST.
The air supply is usually 1/2 open.

Any thoughts? Help? (The air supply lever seems fine...but how do I know for sure?)

 

[Todd]

Check your chimney cap, could be clogging and reducing draft.

 

[Fsappo]

Should be coincidence. I agree with checking the chimney first. I dont think the ash grate would have anything to do with shutting the air down.

 

[Highbeam]

Only thing that is related is that you may have just now been able to fully close the ash pan drawer. The grate could be completely removed without affecting air supply to the fire, it is that gasketed ash pan drawer that would allow combustion air to the fire. The ash pan drawer on the heritage is a crappy design. The hinge is weak and the latch is not positive, it is easy to misalign the door upon closing and screw it up.

Really though, when first starting the fire, I need to have the draft wide open for the first ten minutes or so. The owner's manual actually tells you to leave it wide open for 30 minutes but that overheats my chimney. What I'm saying is that my stove acts like yours, and will nearly snuff if the air is only open half way on a cold fire.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

Only thing that is related is that you may have just now been able to fully close the ash pan drawer. The grate could be completely removed without affecting air supply to the fire, it is that gasketed ash pan drawer that would allow combustion air to the fire. The ash pan drawer on the heritage is a crappy design. The hinge is weak and the latch is not positive, it is easy to misalign the door upon closing and screw it up.

Really though, when first starting the fire, I need to have the draft wide open for the first ten minutes or so. The owner's manual actually tells you to leave it wide open for 30 minutes but that overheats my chimney. What I'm saying is that my stove acts like yours, and will nearly snuff if the air is only open half way on a cold fire.

huh?
Do not operate the stove unless the ASH PAN is inserted into the stove and the ash door is closed. This could overheat and damage the stove.
taken from owners book

 

[YankeeFarmer]

When the grate is closed, is it completely closed?

My Heritage was brand new one week ago. I thought a closed grate was a completely closed grate. This past weekend, I opened the grate to drop ashes into the ash pan. It didn't seem to want to close completely. No big deal, except that in trying to close it so I could close the ash door- as the live coals started roaring- i bent the "lever." I closed the ash door and all was well.

Next morning, while building a fresh fire, I noticed that the grate did not completely close. About 1/2 of the opening width is still open. Is it supposed to be this way? Might the OP have managed to completely close his, while the intent is for there to be some undergrate air?

Jerry

 

[ispinwool]

Dave,
I have my ash pan in place and the door shuts with no problem...
I'm just puzzled as to why I suddenly don't have any air---the ash
pan grate has nothing to do with the air intake so I'm at a loss for
a reason my fires putter out.
I keep the door cracked till it's going good and keep the air damper
open all the way for about 10 minutes after I close the door then start to work it down to
about a third to 1/4 open.

I'm stumped.

 

[ispinwool]

When the grate is closed, is it completely closed?

My Heritage was brand new one week ago. I thought a closed grate was a completely closed grate. This past weekend, I opened the grate to drop ashes into the ash pan. It didn't seem to want to close completely. No big deal, except that in trying to close it so I could close the ash door- as the live coals started roaring- i bent the "lever." I closed the ash door and all was well.

Next morning, while building a fresh fire, I noticed that the grate did not completely close. About 1/2 of the opening width is still open. Is it supposed to be this way? Might the OP have managed to completely close his, while the intent is for there to be some undergrate air?

Jerry

...anyone know for sure? I think mine has been all the way closed in the past (as it is now) but I've been
wrong before...
Can someone please look at yours and let us know....

 

[ispinwool]

Check your chimney cap, could be clogging and reducing draft.

Todd and Franks,
The chimney cap looks ok....thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Milton Findley]

On my Heritage, also a week old, a closed bottom grate is closed, but it is not air tight by any stretch. When the ash pan door is closed and locked there is very little air flow through the ash grate to the fire. Opening the ash door allows air into the firebox. As previously pointed out, this is not supposed to be done because of the risk of over firing the stove, (p. 16). If the grate lever is not bent, broken, or disconnected, closing the ash pan door closes the grate. The manual says that the grate is supposed to be closed during a burn, (p. 19).

Possible things I have already noticed that slow down the initial heating are a blocked primary air intake, insufficient kindling, damp wood, and decreased draft due to calm winds. And while it is not recommended, the way I take care the problem is to crack the ash pan door for a few minutes until the wood is burning and the stove is warmed up. I suppose I could open either the front glass, or the side door and blow into the opening, but it just seems easier to use simple physics instead of my 63 year old lungs.

 

[ispinwool]

On my Heritage, also a week old, a closed bottom grate is closed, but it is not air tight by any stretch. When the ash pan door is closed and locked there is very little air flow through the ash grate to the fire. Opening the ash door allows air into the firebox. As previously pointed out, this is not supposed to be done because of the risk of over firing the stove, (p. 16). If the grate lever is not bent, broken, or disconnected, closing the ash pan door closes the grate. The manual says that the grate is supposed to be closed during a burn, (p. 19).

Possible things I have already noticed that slow down the initial heating are a blocked primary air intake, insufficient kindling, damp wood, and decreased draft due to calm winds. And while it is not recommended, the way I take care the problem is to crack the ash pan door for a few minutes until the wood is burning and the stove is warmed up. I suppose I could open either the front glass, or the side door and blow into the opening, but it just seems easier to use simple physics instead of my 63 year old lungs.

I've cleared and re-cleared the ashes from the 'doghouse' --it seems fine.

I have better luck in calm or slight winds--we've had 25 mph gusts today and I didn't even try
to light the stove--unless it's been cooking awhile, I get downdrafts...I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

.... I'm a firm believer in kindling and use lots (at least till my order of Super Cedars get here!).
Also switched the stack of wood I was using--from 'dry' to the 'really old and dry'; but it didn't seem to make
a difference. I'll keep tweaking and see what happens.
thanks.

 

[Awk01]

When I close the ash door my grate is completely closed. But like stated, it not looking completely air tight. ONE time I tried to clean ash (while fire in the stove) using the ash door... NEVER again... In a very short time it developed a JET engine type noise that shook the cabin... Wozzy scared the living crap out of me. Talking about a over charged fire!

My Heritage take a bit to get going. Depend on the wood I using at the time. I crack the side door. Now the only time I use the front door is when I am cleaning the stove, and I open the ash door rarely, maybe every other cleaning. Much easier to clean from ash from the side door.

AWK

 

[Awk01]

When I close the ash door my grate is completely closed. But like stated, it not looking completely air tight. ONE time I tried to clean ash (while fire in the stove) using the ash door... NEVER again... In a very short time it developed a JET engine type noise that shook the cabin... Wozzy scared the living crap out of me. Talking about a over charged fire!

My Heritage take a bit to get going. Depend on the wood I using at the time. I crack the side door. Now the only time I use the front door is when I am cleaning the stove, and I open the ash door rarely, maybe every other cleaning. Much easier to clean from ash from the side door.

AWK

 

[ispinwool]

Thanks AWK....
so far nothing looks 'wrong' so I'll keep trying

 

[Highbeam]

Only thing that is related is that you may have just now been able to fully close the ash pan drawer. The grate could be completely removed without affecting air supply to the fire, it is that gasketed ash pan drawer that would allow combustion air to the fire. The ash pan drawer on the heritage is a crappy design. The hinge is weak and the latch is not positive, it is easy to misalign the door upon closing and screw it up.

Really though, when first starting the fire, I need to have the draft wide open for the first ten minutes or so. The owner's manual actually tells you to leave it wide open for 30 minutes but that overheats my chimney. What I'm saying is that my stove acts like yours, and will nearly snuff if the air is only open half way on a cold fire.

huh?
Do not operate the stove unless the ASH PAN is inserted into the stove and the ash door is closed. This could overheat and damage the stove.
taken from owners book

Read my post again Dave. I said nothing about the ASH PAN. The gasketed ash pan door gasket is what prevents air from entering the ash pan area and running up through the grate to feed the fire. Nothing you do with the ash grate or the ash pan will have any bearing on the fire so long as the ash pan door is sealed well. The ash pan door has a crappy seal and is hinged on the side leading to a high likelihood of a poor seal. I actually suspect that the OP's "problem" is that he just now got the ash door closed properly.

 

[Highbeam]

I keep the door cracked till it's going good and keep the air damper
open all the way for about 10 minutes after I close the door then start to work it down to
about a third to 1/4 open.

I'm stumped.

You're not stumped, this is how you operate a stone stove. I do this exact operation at least once a day. What did you exepct?

 

[ispinwool]

I keep the door cracked till it's going good and keep the air damper
open all the way for about 10 minutes after I close the door then start to work it down to
about a third to 1/4 open.

I'm stumped.

You're not stumped, this is how you operate a stone stove. I do this exact operation at least once a day. What did you exepct?

....well....I expect the fire to continue to burn after I shut the door like it has in the past....the first
post says the fire goes out REALLY QUICK--in about 30-45 seconds. Re-open the door, the fire comes
back to life. (the air supply lever is all the way open at the time).
I used to be able to get a good rolling fire in about 5 minutes, shut the door and that was it.

Something has gone wrong in the last few days and I can't find the problem. So...I'm Stumped. Puzzled.
Bamboozled. FRUSTRATED.

(I've been doing alot of reading thanks to Pen...I've checked on a few things that may be the issue---update
at 11:00)

 

[Awk01]

I have to say, my Hertiage acts the same way quite often. I just poke at the fire, turn the wood, and hope for the best. Maybe I have the same issue as you. I think it's the wood I use sometimes. I have bunch of differents types of wood that I burn. I going on year 4 with the stove. It has done like you state from day one. I did opt for the Outside Air Kit. There are time I swear that if I slide the air control back and forth a few times it improves... but no data to support it. I think it just make me feel better.

AWK


Oh sorry for that last double post!

 

[Highbeam]

BUT--now when I light it up, as soon as it gets a nice blaze going and I close the
door (I leave it open a crack to get things rolling)....the fire goes OUT. FAST.
The air supply is usually 1/2 open.

I must have misunderstood, your first post says you leave the air supply 1/2 open. That's not the right way to do it. Your change between before messing with the ash pan and after may be as simple as you just now got a proper seal on the ash pan door. Without paying attention I only shut it properly half the time. I suspect that in the "before" case that you were inadvertently running with the ash pan door slightly open and now it is closed and working right.

Your next few posts mention chimney issues that are symptoms of poor draft. For a cold stone stove to take off quickly you need a strong draft, at least strong enough that it will never backdraft on you.

 

[YankeeFarmer]

Good point, Highbeam. ispinwool, when you start or rebuild that fire, go ahead and open the air control wide open. (if you aren't doing that) I used to be cautious with the air on our old stove, because it would take off fast. This Heritage doesn't do that. It can take mine an hour for the fire to get to where I feel I need to start closing it down. The Heritage also seems to be more sensitive to the wood being burned than our cast iron Resolute Acclaim was.

Jerry

 

[ispinwool]

Thanks Ya'll!!
I lit 'er up this morning and I HAVE A LOVELY FIRE THAT'S STAYING LIT!

I'd read on here somewhere that the air intake hole may be clogged--so I poked
a hanger down it...don't know if that was the problem (I can't actually see in the hole)
but she lit up with no problem today!
For the last 3 days I cringed every time the gas furnace kicked on---it
won't kick on today!

thanks again!