Hearthstone Shelburne Install Advice

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fran35

Member
Jan 10, 2011
157
PA
Hey Everyone,
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. I am taking some of my holiday leave and working on the install for the use stove that I purchased, a Hearthstone Shelburne. I am planning on installing this stove in my new sunroom. The ceilings are approximately 10 ft tall. I am wanting to do a horizontal exit from the stove out through a thimble to about 16 ft of class A. The Shelburne actually has a rotating exhaust port that can can vent vertically, or straight out at 90 degrees. Since I am wanting to do a horizontal exit, this seems as if it will work perfectly. My question is whether I need to run a few feet of stove pipe vertically before the horizontal exit, or I can just exit the wall directly behind the stove? From reading the owner's manual, it seems as if this is the intent behind the rotating port, to actually give folks the option to make a direct exit.

Also, from folks who have or may have had the Hearthstone Shelburne, I was wondering how the stove will perform in this type of chimney? I realize that it may take a little coaxing with a hair dryer to get the cold chimney drafting for a cold startup, but once it gets heated, will things work adequately?

Again, thanks so much and Merry Christmas (apologies for the non politically correct seasonal greetings, but I guess I am a bit of non conformist).
 
You can directly rear vent to the wall thimble. This requires precisely locating the tee so that the wall thimble is just slightly higher than the stove flue exit so that the connecting stove pipe can have a 1/4"/ft uphill pitch toward the chimney. The downside of going straight out the rear is that the thimble height is more or less permanently set. That can make it hard to change out to a different stove later on. One solution would be to build up the hearth in layers so that if a taller stove was to be installed in the future, the bottom layer could be removed to gain flue exit height. Or just go vertical for a few feet then angle into the thimble. That will provide maximum future installation flexibility.
 
Good call on the hearth height vs thimble height, I had not thought of that. I could see eventually upsizing from the hearthstone depending upon its burn time and performance. I think I very well may run a 12 inch vertical before I go horizontal, as well as build up the hearth now in case I need to reduce it later.

Thanks again

You can directly rear vent to the wall thimble. This requires precisely locating the tee so that the wall thimble is just slightly higher than the stove flue exit so that the connecting stove pipe can have a 1/4"/ft uphill pitch toward the chimney. The downside of going straight out the rear is that the thimble height is more or less permanently set. That can make it hard to change out to a different stove later on. One solution would be to build up the hearth in layers so that if a taller stove was to be installed in the future, the bottom layer could be removed to gain flue exit height. Or just go vertical for a few feet then angle into the thimble. That will provide maximum future installation flexibility.
 
I've got the Shelburne set up with a 2' vertical run of double wall inside to a 90 to a 9" horizontal section of double wall, to an adapter to the class a stainless through the wall kit where I have a 2' section passing through the wall to the T and up 16' with class A from there.
So overall it's about 21' of pipe (17 vertical and 4 horizontal) vents great, burns clean, no issues at all with a similar set up as to what you're thinking of.
 
I would go at least 2-3 feet vertical if that is the plan. That will help it draft a bit better.
 
OK, Follow on Question. I was going to start a new topic, but in the interest of not bumping others I will utilize my previous one. I am looking at the Hearthstone Shelburne Manual and it appears that I can utilize NFPA 211(1 inch air gap) and my the heat shield to get the clearance down to 3inches??? I thought that the use of heat shield or 211 was not allowed to be concurrent and in addition? By the chart I am looking at in the owner's manual, it shows the clearances with no remedies, rear heat shield alone, and then rear heat shield plus NFPA. I guess it's Gospel because the manufacturer states such, but does anyone else get a pucker factor with 3inches? Thoughts on this BeGreen?
 
If unspecified and untested the minimum rear wall clearance is 12" with a proper wall shield. The Shelburne manual is listing corner clearances, for 3". 3" is ok in this case because the manufacturer has specified the tested clearance and published this in the stove manual. As long as the NFPA211 wall shield is done correctly you can to with the manual's specified clearances.
 
If unspecified and untested the minimum rear wall clearance is 12" with a proper wall shield. The Shelburne manual is listing corner clearances, for 3". 3" is ok in this case because the manufacturer has specified the tested clearance and published this in the stove manual. As long as the NFPA211 wall shield is done correctly you can to with the manual's specified clearances.
Thanks BG. But I believe the clearance is 3 inches to the rear with a wall shield and rear hear heat shield on stove, according to this chart from the manual. Take a look and give me your thoughts.
 

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That's correct
 
That's correct
I guess the larger question for you, as someone obviously more in the know than me, is would you feel comfortable with three inches set off? I was thinking about five or six, but not even sure about that. It scares me I guess.
 
It's the minimum tested clearance and surprisingly low for a radiant stove. The rear shield must be quite effective. There's no harm in exceeding the minimum requirements. I have done this with each stove install in our house.
 
I exceeded my clearances by a few inches . . . figured a couple to three inches extra certainly wouldn't hurt things and could only make it a bit safer.
 
I exceeded the corner clearance for the Castine by several inches. The walls still reached 160F behind the stove. That said, I have a lot of respect for the power of a proper ventilated wall shield. Done right it's very effective. If we had kept the Castine I was going to put one up.
 
Fyi. I put my Shelburne 8" off sheet rock for the corners, wall was getting really hot, sure it was okay, but I wasn't comfortable with it burning 24 hours a day all winter.
I've since put in shielding, I was still able to maintain all clearances since I originally exceeded by a bit, things have been good ever since.
 
The rear and rear corners of my Shelburne are never hot with the heatshield. But the clearance to the sides does need to be maintained...that does get hot. (Unless, of course, you put some sort of shield on the side walls.)
 
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