THIS BASEMENT FIREPLACE , ALTHOUGH USED SELDOMLY, HAS BEEN FLAWLESS. THE PILOT IS LEFT ON AS WELL AS THE POWER TOGGLE BELOW THE DROP DOOR, SO I'D SIMPLY TURN THE DIAL ON WALL THERMOSTAT. (2 WIRE, TEMP ONLY, NO ON/OFF SWITCH) TEMP STAYED PRETTY ACCURATE , TURN TO 65 FIREPLACE WOULD SHUT DOWN AT OR NEAR THAT UNTIL RECENTLY. YESTERDAY, WARMED THE BASEMENT FOR A CLEANING AND DIALED DOWN THE THERMOSTAT TO LOWEST SETTING (APPROX. 40 ON OLDSTYLE MERCURY STATS) WHEN FINISHED. THIS WAS THE NORMAL OPERATION, I WENT TO BED. THIS MORNING I WAS SURPRISED TO FIND THE FIREPLACE STILL RUNNING WITH THE STAT READING 75 WHEN IT WAS DIALED ALL THE WAY DOWN. I TOGGLED THE SWITCH UNDER THE ACCESS DOOR OFF AND THE MAIN BURNER SHUT DOWN. I THEN PROCEEDED TO VACUUM ENTIRE ACCESS AREA (BURNER ASSEMBLY,BLOWER HOUSING, ETC.) AS WELL AS CLEANING ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. AS SOON AS I TURN THE TOGGLE BACK TO ON IT IGNITES THE MAIN BURNER. I HAVE NO THERMOSTATIC CONTROL. CAN ANYONE HELP DIAGNOSE THIS SUDDEN CHANGE IN OPERATION. HONESTLY, I THOUGHT THE WALL STAT WAS FAULTY INITIALLY, BUT NOT SURE. I DISCONNECTED 1 WIRE TO THE STAT WHICH HAD NO EFFECT. ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU.
HEAT&GLO;(GTI) 6000 GDV WONT SHUT OFF??
- Thread starter JAMIE
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
R&D Guy
New Member
- Apr 25, 2007
- 375
Well, sounds like a no-brainer to me, the thermostat is FUBAR'd. Unless you find bare wires crossed at the thermostat, replace it and be done with the issue. A cheap mercury thermostat at the local hardware store is less than $20, be sure to get one with "Dry Contacts".
North of 60
Minister of Fire
Well R&D;GUY he said he disconnected one wire at the stat which rules that out. Try disconnecting one wire at the Gas valve terminal. That will tell you if its between the stat and the appliance. Ive seen people use staples to run their stat wire and over time
they have become the closed set of contacts causing the unit to stay in the heating mode. For now use your lower case when posting as it is hard to read.
they have become the closed set of contacts causing the unit to stay in the heating mode. For now use your lower case when posting as it is hard to read.
Disconnect BOTH wires from the T-stat.
If the FP is still burning, you have a short somewhere in the t-stat wire.
If the FP is still burning, you have a short somewhere in the t-stat wire.
If the small "On/Off" Toggle under the unit is normally left on, maybe it's wired in series with the t-stat; Still, my experience is that in most installations (especially if the t-stat wire is connected to the wires labeled "For remote or Wall switch"), a wall switch or remote is typically run in parallel with the toggle switch, and as such the unit will be on if either the toggle switch OR the wall switch/T-stat is on. Try turning the toggle off and turn the T-stat up.
The previous post is right, also. If you disconnect one of the wires at the valve (Try the one labeled TH) and the unit turns off, there's an issue upstream. If it stays lit with the TH wire disconnected, something's hinky in the valve.
The previous post is right, also. If you disconnect one of the wires at the valve (Try the one labeled TH) and the unit turns off, there's an issue upstream. If it stays lit with the TH wire disconnected, something's hinky in the valve.
Thanks for all the help. It turns out it was an oversight on my part. Tin courier's diagnoses was correct, which I stumbled upon myself the other night. I was defeating my purpose by using the toggle, which should've been left off. Infrequent use is my only excuse. Thanks again for the replies.
- Status