Heat Load

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

wolfram

New Member
Aug 7, 2009
55
Western NY
We currently heat to 72 degrees F with electric baseboard. The house is 1800 sq. ft., single story. Here is the rough data on average electric usage for heat. I do not have data on peak usage.

OCT, NOV, APR, MAY: 40 KWH/Day ~ 6,000 BTU/Hr
DEC, MAR: 70 KWH/Day ~ 10,000 BTU/Hr
JAN, FEB: 80 KWH/Day ~ 11,000 BTU/Hr

I have used the heat load calculator with average temperatures (not -5F, which might be my design temp), which is linked thru a sticky here. That calculator gives results that are high; approx. 3X too high (e.g. 30,000 BTU/Hr) when compared to the actual average results.

While I am confused about the 3X difference, my main question is how to use average electric usage data to help size a gasifier. The plan is to place it with storage in a shed 100 feet from the house. Panels, baseboards, or in-floor is still not determined.

I am OK with large safety factors, I'd just like to know one when I see one.

If I did not supply enough information, I apologize in advance!
 
wolfram - It would be helpful to know the age of construction and the quality of insulation in the house. What is in the walls, what is in the ceiling?

Specifs aside, I would think a smaller unit would be near your load. However, if you went with a slightly larger unit and a good amount of storage, you could get away with less burn time.

Assuming you have average insulation: I would just guess than an EKO 25 @ 85k (or equivalent) would need 2-3 loads in coldest weather a day to meet demand (storage would even out distribution between loads) and that say an EKO 40 @ 140k (or equivalent) would get away with maybe 1-1.5 loads a day in coldest weather (would require storage to store heat and distribute throughout the day.) As the temp moderates you would be able to skip days. The second option is the better way to design your system with storage. A bit more money up front for the larger boiler, but way more convenient in the long run...

Ideally you would want to locate the storage in or nearer the heat load (the house) if at all possible...
 
A quick look and your numbers look correct.

To use electric data, I would find what your average heating load doing so as accurately as possible, then try to determine what extreme conditions you want to be able to handle and perhaps the some idea as to the how fast you could re-heat your home.

Your first set of numbers may help you determine your potential budget to make such a change. Some sort of reasonable payback period. My local electricity cost would be about $300/month for your data.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.