Heatilator CAB50 auger wont stop

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Jarhead1229

Member
Nov 12, 2011
28
SLC Utah
I'm having an issue with my cab50 the auger wasn't feeding so I thought it was jammed and pulled out but it wasn't jammed it turned out the motor wasn't turning so I made sure it had power which it did and it started to work again but now it will not turn off it just keeps feeding like its stuck on start up mode the only way to stop it is to pull the vacuum line opening the hopper lid wont turn it off it doesn't even turn off when it overheats I'm wondering if it might be the control board but as far as I can find there isn't any troubleshooting info for this problem any help would be great thank you all
 
Yes, sounds like the control board might be bad. I'd take it out, reseat it first before replacing it....
 
I'm also suspicious of the control board. Has it been on a surge protector? How old is the cab? Warranty?

The only other thing that the manual refers to might be a problem with the thermostat and/or thermostat line or the junction box & wiring harness. The continued function when safety features of hopper switch and overheat should be engaged suggest the control board.

Not safe:eek:
 
Not sure what happened when it went from not working to working state via "made sure it had power". I'm thinking the auger feed Mosfet (transistor) is shorted on the circuit board so its receiving voltage all the time. This is an easy fix for an electronic tech or someone that knows how to measure ohms, solder, identify the FET, etc. Let me know if you want further help.
 
I don't know if it had a bad spot in the motor or what but while I had it out I spun the motor by hand and when I put it back together it started to spin on its own but then wouldn't stop. So is there a reset button on the control board. Also it is 3 years old and I'm pretty sure the electronics only have a 1 year warranty
 
Quadrafires are designed to reverse the motor if jammed and then resume the normal feed direction. However if it was stuck in place the motor would draw additional current, potentially shorting out the FET (sort of like an electrical switch that controls current flow). I've replaced one if these a couple of years ago on a Santa Fe. I'll look in my transistor stash to see if i have anymore but they were cheap to purchase from electrical suppliers.

Usually the appropriate transistor can be found by tracing the circuit from the control board pins. From there i compare electrical reading across the FET gate, drain and source pins to surrounding FET readings. The bad part is usually easy to find. From there it's a matter of having it replaced and if your not handy with a solder iron, any electrical repair shop could swap bad for good parts. If course all if these comments are for a board removed from stove and be careful to not shock it with static.
 
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