Heating up the flue

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Actually, just the opposite. If your stove is running away and too hot you need to open the doors and let cold air in. Seems wrong and I have never needed to (knock on wood) but that's the quickest way to cool the stove off.
That is only for a true runaway not for a stove that that you just let get hot and absolutely the wrong thing to do if there is a chimney fire.
 
Quickest way but rarely necessary. Turning the air down will slow the fire and cool off the flue after a few minutes. I've never had to open the doors to cool off my stove and I don't think I ever would.

Clancy's question was about a stove running over 1000 degrees where it would be starting to glow. At this point I would want to cool the stove off.
 
I have an Auber Instruments AT-210 combo wireless setup. They also make a simpler one-unit wired system. These units are instantly responsive and have a user-settable temperature alarm. They have changed my burning habits.
I was just thinking yesterday that it'd be great if Auber had a smart phone ap that worked with the wireless unit, as I almost always have my smart phone with me. My house thermostat has an ap and is nice as I can check the temperature at any time from anywhere. (And I don't think it'd be difficult from there to have a temperature history.)

For now, I do a lot of running up and down the stairs from my computer to the stove to monitor the burn. That, by itself, would be solved by the current Auber wireless setup.
 
Clancy's question was about a stove running over 1000 degrees where it would be starting to glow. At this point I would want to cool the stove off.

Just shut the intake. If that doesn’t slow it down then you can try something crazy like swinging the loading door open. Maybe throw a banana in there.
 
My wife loves the fire and wood heat! She doesn't realize it, but she actually gets a little cranky when we don't have a fire. :eek: She's made comments about starting one when I've been out, so I knew right there, I needed to get her involved long before she tackles it on her own.
My wife is well aware of how cranky she gets when the stove is off. I get the pouty face and puppy dog eyes.
 
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My wife is well aware of how cranky she gets when the stove is off. I get the pouty face and puppy dog eyes.

When we first met and were younger my wife insisted on keeping the house at 60 to save $ on oil. We wore sweatshirts and used blanket. We'd "crank it up" to 65 when we had guests over so we didn't freeze them.

Now that we have the wood stove its the total opposite. If it gets below 68 I'll get the passing "it's chilly in here" and if it drops below 65 she's in a parka dragging me to to the stove ;lol. We have to tell guests who don't already know to have a t-shirt on under their winter clothes when they visit. She's a total convert...nothing feels better than wood heat!

Wood as primary heat isn't very common where I I live and I end up getting a lot of compliments on it once people experience it. They are always amazed at how warm it makes you feel and love the ambiance.
 
My wife is well aware of how cranky she gets when the stove is off. I get the pouty face and puppy dog eyes.
Sometimes we're like puppets on our wives strings! It's ok though, my wife spoils me something awful, I know how lucky I am, as I'm sure you are too!

@Caw , after the 2008 financial meltdown, we went through our own austerity program, we cut back on spending anywhere we could, including heating. Sitting around the house in long underwear wasn't unusual for a couple winters. LOL We added our stove for ambiance, but it didn't take long to realize the energy savings and warmth. The first winter I had about a half cord of wood, thinking I was sitting pretty. Haha! How naive!
 
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Gosh you would have one hot banana..lol lol We went it cooler not hot..lol lol Thanks...I got the answer just shut the air supply down off. clancey..
 
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Gosh you would have one hot banana..lol lol We went it cooler not hot..lol lol Thanks...I got the answer just shut the air supply down off. clancey..
I see an opportunity to make banana bread!
 
Hey McDoug if you like Banana Bread---You go for it...lol Hope that wood stove calms down a bit and stays good..---that would scare me and I would be calling the fire dept wringing my hands with no bananas..terrible...Have a good day clancey..
 
An update on this. I called the manufacturer of my chimney pipe and asked about the high end temperature specs. I have the 6" double wall, and I was really surprised, it is rated at 2100º for a 10 minute test run, 1400º for an hour, and 1000º continuous run. I don't plan on doing the 1000º continuous run, let alone the higher temps, but it's good to know what the limits are.

I'm waiting to hear back from my stove manufacturer about it's high end temperature specs, the customer service rep said she didn't see any listed and is going to email me the recommendations.

Of course, the accuracy of my temperature gauges may be off, but I doubt it's that much. I do plan on upgrading my flue gauge before next season.
 
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An update to my previous update.... the temperatures in my previous post were for the exterior stainless steel chimney pipe.

The black double wall stove pipe I have is rated for 1200º continuous run. The 1050º that it got up to the other night is within acceptable range, at least according to that temperature gauge. I won't run it at that range, but if it briefly shoots up there it's not a panic situation.

The technician at Selkirk said if temperatures are exceeded it is a good idea to visually inspect the inside liner of the pipe for rippling or separation of the seam. If that happens it's time to replace the pipe. She asked how the paint looked, as one indicator of problems, and also said if there was a failure or stress, a loud popping noise is usually heard. This would be outside the normal sounds of metal heating up.

Still waiting to hear from the stove manufacturer.
 
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The black double wall stove pipe I have is rated for 1200º continuous run. The 1050º that it got up to the other night is within acceptable range, at least according to that temperature gauge. I won't run it at that range, but if it briefly shoots up there it's not a panic situation.

The technician at Selkirk said if temperatures are exceeded it is a good idea to visually inspect the inside liner of the pipe for rippling or separation of the seam. If that happens it's time to replace the pipe. She asked how the paint looked, as one indicator of problems, and also said if there was a failure or stress, a loud popping noise is usually heard. This would be outside the normal sounds of metal heating up.
It's great you were able to get such detailed information from the manufacturer, especially with regards to inspection.

Other things to consider is that this would involve temperatures right at stove connection for the stove pipe (not just at 18" above) and with regards to peak temp, the Condar probe is slow to react. The inspection tips, however, should help handle this assessment.

I've often wondered with regards to which aspects is the red "Too hot" on the probe too hot.... stove pipe integrity? igniting creosote? energy inefficiency? etc.
 
An update to my previous update.... the temperatures in my previous post were for the exterior stainless steel chimney pipe.

The black double wall stove pipe I have is rated for 1200º continuous run. The 1050º that it got up to the other night is within acceptable range, at least according to that temperature gauge. I won't run it at that range, but if it briefly shoots up there it's not a panic situation.

The technician at Selkirk said if temperatures are exceeded it is a good idea to visually inspect the inside liner of the pipe for rippling or separation of the seam. If that happens it's time to replace the pipe. She asked how the paint looked, as one indicator of problems, and also said if there was a failure or stress, a loud popping noise is usually heard. This would be outside the normal sounds of metal heating up.

Still waiting to hear from the stove manufacturer.
Yes chimney pipe liners etc are rated to 1000 continuous. But running that hot certainly stresses everything more and will without a doubt shorten the lifespan on the system not to mention you are wasting lots of heat.

And no you will absolutely not always hear a loud pop. In most cases you will not.
 
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It's great you were able to get such detailed information from the manufacturer, especially with regards to inspection.

Other things to consider is that this would involve temperatures right at stove connection for the stove pipe (not just at 18" above) and with regards to peak temp, the Condar probe is slow to react. The inspection tips, however, should help handle this assessment.

I've often wondered with regards to which aspects is the red "Too hot" on the probe too hot.... stove pipe integrity? igniting creosote? energy inefficiency? etc.
I've been impressed with Selkirk tech support, always pleasant and helpful. They're not just answering a question, they want to help people make informed decisions.

The condor may be slow to react, but it peaked at about 1050 degrees, then backed down. That's still 150 degrees less than my stove pipe rating of 1200 continuous. I'll inspect it when I do my end of season cleaning. I'm not changing my practices yet, those temps were an anomaly. From begreen and Highbeams comments I have a feeling my practices will change with the digital temperature probe. I don't know how yet, but I'll find out. I religiously keep an eye on the temps, and I've been training my wife to do it also.

I think you're probably right on all accounts about the “Too hot”. Even though the stove pipe is rated in the Too hot range, they probably mark it sooner to give people an advance warning, to help keep people away from running it that hot. And that's a good thing. Reminds me of the fuel gauge on my truck, the last obvious mark on the gauge is the ¼ tank left, but it gives you the feeling that you're almost empty.